|
|
 Speedo75Needle.JPG | Hits: 1194 | Size: 46.79 KB | Posted on: 5/14/09 | Link to this image
I tried simply pulling, and the needle wouldn't come off the shaft. So I put a few drops of WD-40 on the shaft (that's the stain on the face) and let it soak, but it still wouldn't come off. So I tried a kitchen fork with no luck. So I got my trim pliers, put some duct tape on the tips to protect the face & put needle-nose pliers under the face to support it, and the needle shaft slid up thru the bell, carrying the clock spring hub with it. I put the needle-nose on the hub & finally got the needle off, but the spring is ruined, even if I can get the shaft back into place.
Fortunately, this is a spare cluster that I'm disassembling anyway to install modern movements. So it's not a great loss.
|
|
|
I found this cluster in a truck that was about to be crushed, so it only cost a few bucks. I'm going to see how many modern instruments can be swapped into it.
|
|
|
The old cable-drive speedo is top-of-the-list to go. I'm hoping to find an electrically-driven speedo that will fit, and can be calibrated to this cluster's face.
But the ammeter is a close second. It needs to be a voltmeter.
|
|
|
There's not much depth to work with, but the steel case should make mods easy.
|
|
|
The simple face should also be easy to work with.
|
|
|
Parts
|
|
|
Parts
|
|
|
Step 1 is to remove the swaged bezel ring. I just used a flathead screwdriver to pry the lip out all the way around.
|
|
|
Eventually, the lip was large enough to push the ring down & pry it off the gauge housing.
|
|
|
Only the gauge body inside will be reused.
|
|
|
Remove the nuts, and the gauge body comes out of the housing.
|
|
|
Use a jeweller's #0 phillips screwdriver to remove the face screws.
|
|
|
Behind the face is a resistor, a Zener diode, and a trim pot for calibrating the meter. There's also a plastic peg molded into the gauge frame to support the face, but it's difficult to pick out in this photo.
|
|
|
This is the MarsChariot face, cut out of glossy photo paper.
|
|
|
Using the original face as a guide, I used the screwdriver to punch screw holes in the MarsChariot face.
I even found a use for the instructions...
|
|
|
The MarsChariot face will make the new voltmeter look like stock in the old instrument cluster.
|
|
|
The last step is to add a drop of glue (I used E6000) to hold the face flat against the support peg & the Zener diode so it can't foul the needle.
|
|
|
During the rewiring, I added these 4-pin connectors to make the cluster more modular. Note that the ICVR has 2 terminals on its hot side, so tapping that circuit for the voltmeter will be simple. The black ground wire in the bare spade terminal goes to one of the cluster faceplate screws (but it might be better under the ICVR mounting screw). IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it. See also:  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/1997/c37_39_p.pdf
|
|
|
A few minutes with some tin snips turned a piece of scrap metal into a new backplate.
|
|
|
A few sketch lines locate the the gauge studs. The shoulders fit 11/32" holes, and a little wallowing positions them.
It probably would have been easier to mount the gauge to the scrap, then shape it to fit the cluster.
The damaged screw hole won't affect mounting.
|
|
|
The paper insulator prevents the hot side from shorting to the plate; the steel washer on the ground side helps it connect to the plate, but I also moved my dedicated ground wire to the voltmeter stud. This diagram shows the new R wire going to the ig.sw., but it's effectively the same as what's shown above (C223). See also: . . . . https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/1997/c37_39_p.pdf
|
|
|
If the driver's angle doesn't show the whole face, I might redo the backplate to shift the gauge inboard slightly.
|
|
|
Even the 2G alternator was too much for the stock ammeter splice (C205); good thing this circuit hasn't been in use for a few years, since the 3G upgrade.
|
|
|
Just a shot of the clearance behind the cluster. This truck has a LOT of extra wiring since the whole harness came from an '88 F150 XLT.
I had to unbolt the top of the e-brake so the dash face would swing forward to allow the cluster to fit out the back.
|
|
|
Just a shot of the clearance behind the cluster. This truck has a LOT of extra wiring since the whole harness came from an '88 F150 XLT.
I had to unbolt the top of the e-brake so the dash face would swing forward to allow the cluster to fit out the back.
|
|
|
Just a shot of the clearance behind the cluster. This truck has a LOT of extra wiring since the whole harness came from an '88 F150 XLT.
I had to unbolt the top of the e-brake so the dash face would swing forward to allow the cluster to fit out the back.
|
|
|
Looks like the backplate I made is OK - the meter's face is visible.
|
Instruments
