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clockouta.jpg This was the last step in disassembly: getting the clock out.  It was a tight squeeze, had to pull the front white base away from the blue body metal behind it, while still being held by the wiring harness and speedometer cable which are right behind the speedometer.  The clock was held with 4 screws fastened from the back side of the white base, so had to be done by feel with a 1/4" open end wrench.  The clocks protruding setting stalk made it difficult to work out.  Next is to check whether I like putting white LED under those blue domes, or no dome and just a blue LED... 

The interesting thing about this white plastic base is the bottom has a printed circuit tape running from the ribbon cable on the left.  Therefore, the individual lights including their socket, can be untwisted from their mounting hole, from the bottom, having no wire attached to them! Contact is made with the mounting socket to the printed circuit tape when twisted back in.
clockouta.jpg | Hits: 553 | Posted on: 7/30/23 | View original size (2.56 MB)

This was the last step in disassembly: getting the clock out. It was a tight squeeze, had to pull the front white base away from the blue body metal behind it, while still being held by the wiring harness and speedometer cable which are right behind the speedometer. The clock was held with 4 screws fastened from the back side of the white base, so had to be done by feel with a 1/4" open end wrench. The clocks protruding setting stalk made it difficult to work out. Next is to check whether I like putting white LED under those blue domes, or no dome and just a blue LED...

The interesting thing about this white plastic base is the bottom has a printed circuit tape running from the ribbon cable on the left. Therefore, the individual lights including their socket, can be untwisted from their mounting hole, from the bottom, having no wire attached to them! Contact is made with the mounting socket to the printed circuit tape when twisted back in.