FordExcursions.com Forums
David Moore
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• Houston, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 10/24/2003 |
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• 9 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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 Posted:10/31/2003 12:04 |
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 This is my first post here, but since I got a few pointers from you guys on the topic of "door lock actuators", I thought it seemed fair to post my results and try to document all the steps in replacing these little gremlins.
First, a few general comments. I won't rag on Ford for not stepping up to the plate on this obvious defect, but I will blast the dealerships for taking advantage of people. My neighbor had 3 door locks stop working within a few weeks. The local Ford dealer charged him $300+ EACH to fix!!! That should be criminal! I have seen other postings mention $50 to $75 for each actuator, then 1 1/2 hours labor at $80 /hour. That's criminal as well. Here's the scoop. The actuator is $38 and change at my local Ford dealer. I actually found much higher prices online (what's up with that?). The actuator you buy now looks slightly different and is an improved design. Maybe that means I only get to do this once for each door.
As for the labor involved, this was the first time I have ever removed a door panel, in my life, and I did the complete job in 35 minutes in my driveway. Now you tell me why a certified mechanic, that has obviously done dozens (hundreds?) of these, would take 1 1/2 hours, or more! It's BS.
OK. Enough venting. Now for the actual work involved. First of all, I have seen other postings mention removing the latch mechanism, outside door handle, breaking rods, etc. None of this is necessary. You need a good flashlight, that will fit inside the door. You need a socket wrench to remove 2 screws (sorry I don't remember the size). And lastly, a large screwdriver will be helpful for breaking out the defective actuator. Here are the steps. By the way, my instructions are for the front passenger side door, since that's the one I've replaced so far. The back doors may be slightly different.
1) Remove the door light lense/reflector. Pops right out with the screwdriver.
2) This will expose the first of 2 screws to be removed. Take it out.
3) Remove the panel that holds the window switch and lock button. Pull up from the front edge. A metal friction clip holds it in place.
4) This will expose the second screw. Remove it.
5) Unplug the wiring pigtails from the window and lock switches. You might want to label these, since at first glance these connectors appear identical. I didn't inspect closely.
6) Pull off the triangular plastic trim near the front edge of the window.
7) Now, the entire door panel should left up and away from the door.
8 ) Slowly peel the vinyl protective liner, starting from the back edge of the door, about half-way to the front, and secure it out of your way.
9) Now, time for business. Hold your flashlight inside the large opening in the door shell, and point toward the door latch. By peeking in through the small holes, or squeezing your head partway into the large hole, you will be able to see the bad, bad actuator. Take a couple of minutes to get acquainted with whats in there. It's not as bad as it seems.
10) The actuator has 3 points of attachment: a) the electrical connector at the bottom end, b) a little rubber plug at the top front corner that does nothing more than secure a part of the wiring harness to the actuator (no reason for this, that I could see), and c) the physical connector of the actuator body to the inside of the door frame.
11) First of all, push the silly rubber plug back through the hole so that the wiring harness is no longer dangling from the actuator. Leave the electrical connector for the actuator itself connected for now - you'll unplug it last.
12) Next, here's where you may take a couple of different directions. The quickest way to remove the old dead actuator is to take a large screwdriver and push against it, towards to outside of the door, to break off part of the flimsy plastic body that holds it in place. It breaks pretty easily and is trash anyway. If you understand how it connects, you may be able to pry it sideways and slide it off the mounts, but why bother. NOTE: You'll see now that the actuator really doesn't even attach to the lock rods and levers at all. The pin on the actuator arm simply inserts loosely into a hole in the latching mechanism.
13) With the actuator now loose, pull it towards the large door opening and detach the electrical plug from the bottom. HALF WAY THERE!!!
14) Look at the new actuator body. On the back edge, there is a flexible plastic leaf, maybe 2" long. Directly above it there is an "L" shaped slot in the plastic body. There is another one directly below it. These two slots slide sideways onto two "L" shaped metal tabs on the door latch mechanism. You should now be able to spot these inside the door with your light.
15) Before installing, hold the new actuator in its upright position and move the arm all the way up. On the door, pull the manual lock tab all the way up, so that the door is unlocked. This synchronizes the positions of the actuator arm and the door lock, so you can insert the new part easily.
16) Now attach the electrical connector to the bottom of the new actuator.
17) Move the actuator into place inside the door. This is the trickiest part. You will need to feel your way into place, but the actuator body slides onto the two "L" shaped tabs, and the pin on the actuator arm simply inserts into the holes in the lock mechanism. Once it seems to be firmly in place, there is nothing left to do but test it. Test the movement manually first, by pulling the door lock tab, then use your remote, or one of the other lock buttons to test electrical function, before re-assembling the door.
18 ) If all works well, re-assemble the door in reverse order, then wash your hands and take your little lady out to dinner with all the money you saved.
I hope I didn't omit a step, but at least you're starting with more than I had to go on. Good luck. Oh, btw, now the driver side lock is starting to work intermittently. I knew I should have bought one for the left side while I was there.
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Wheels
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• Visalia, CA, USA |
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• Registered on 1/20/2003 |
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• 214 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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 Posted:11/3/2003 09:46 |
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This is good timing, Driver's side door is not functioning correct all the time. Figured this is probably what it is, thanks for the steps!!!!  |
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David Moore
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• Houston, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 10/24/2003 |
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• 9 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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 Posted:11/3/2003 12:01 |
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Yep. That's how it starts. Sometimes they will lock, but not unlock. Sometimes the other way. Sometimes they will lock and unlock, but malfunction after trying 2 or 3 times in a row. We've had our 2000 X for 3 years this month. It probably depends on how many times a day you pop the locks, but everyone I know that has had their X for around 3 years, has already experienced one or more lock actuator failures.  |
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Phillip Beall
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• Honey Grove, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 11/7/2004 |
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• 74 posts |
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Posted:1/21/2007 18:11 |
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David,
Thanks for the "new and improved" version of how to do this. I too saw the detailed job that looked like it would take three hours and I like yours a lot better! 
Now, here's the question - do you have the part number for the new version of the actuator (or the original part number if it is unchanged)?
My right read actuator is starting to do exactly what you say above - it locks but it doesn't always unlock so it is time to get started on this. Thanks for your thorough explanation on how to do the job.
Regards,
Phil |
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crustydoughboy
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• johnstown, OH, USA |
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• Registered on 3/29/2003 |
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• 4 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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crustydoughboy
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• johnstown, OH, USA |
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• Registered on 3/29/2003 |
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• 4 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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Rja
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• Frisco, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 4/19/2012 |
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• 2 posts |
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Posted:4/19/2012 17:12 |
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 I just finished my second door not to bad and actually on the last door utilized a posting that gave directions to repair instead of replacing the actuator and guess what it worked and only took about 15 minutes to fix using a small piece of foil? Thats the good news once everything was back together and hitting the door locks I noticed the last door works but opposite of the other locks. It unlocks when its supposed to lock? Before I tear it down anyone have any ideas where i went wrong? THANKS |
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Rja
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• Frisco, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 4/19/2012 |
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• 2 posts |
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Posted:4/19/2012 17:18 |
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Well, I just finished my second door and actually fixed the second actuators (used a link that shows how to fix using foil) and assembled and guess what it works great expect for the fact it unlocks when it supposed to be locking? Any ideas before i tear down and start over? |
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Posted:2/3/2007 22:52