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Rear doors and door ajar
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David Feldner
• Morgan's Point Resort, TX, USA
• Registered on 4/19/2002
• 11 posts
Posted:3/20/2005 12:35
I have recently developed a problem where my X decides that the rear doors are not closed, even though they are. If the truck is on, the door ajar light stays on and the auto door locks will not engage. If it's off, it will double honk (the code to tell you something's open) when the lock button is pushed twice on the remote. The funny thing is that after a while (2-5 minutes), it will decide it's shut and be fine. Anybody else have this problem?

David
CHPMustang
• Plano, TX, USA
• Registered on 7/24/2002
• 1,800 posts
1 Vehicle
Posted:3/20/2005 13:43
Might have to shoot some WD-40 into the latch mechanisms,there may be a component sticking or something.

Bill

Bill
2002 Excursion XLT-P 4x4 7.3L Powerstroke Diesel




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• Newport News, VA, USA
• Registered on 7/15/2003
• 1,110 posts
Posted:3/20/2005 17:09
Quote:
The funny thing is that after a while (2-5 minutes), it will decide it's shut and be fine.


You may find that's the auto-timed shutoff. If you leave the doors open, the lights will turn off after several minutes. But open another door, and the cycle-time starts anew. Some folks think the battery-save feature will protect them from draining the battery. That idea works IF no more circuits are activated after the "save" function begins. But every time the lights decide to activate, the cycle begins again.

You may want to do a seach here 'cause this subject has surfaced many times. Some folks have had some luck with flooding the door ajar switches with WD40. I replaced all six switches in mine when they started to activate at their own discretion. Fortunately for you, the two liftgate switches are the easiest to replace (if you go that route).

Even after I replaced all of my switches, I still had an occasional goblin who turned the lights on. I finally installed four toggle switches so I could turn them off if needed. The odd thing is since I installed the toggle switches over a year ago, I've only had the lights come on one time when they weren't supposed to.
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• Newport News, VA, USA
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Posted:6/5/2005 08:46
Well, it finally happened ... and I was thankful I had my toggle switches already inline. The other day it was raining Fords and Chevrolets ... er, I mean cats and dogs. I had a few stops to make on my way home ... pick up hardware for radius-rods ... ship a kit at UPS ... pick up a new Luger ... when the door-ajar circuit started acting up. I reached under my dash and flipped the 4 switches on and off until I found the offending circuit. The rear side doors are on the same circuit, but one of them was causing my door-ajar circuit to activate.

It was convenient to just turn it off, and not bother with the aggravation of those lights and chime coming on and off all the way home. Bear in mind that I did the WD40-thing 2 years ago ... worked for a while ... then I replaced all 6 door-ajar switches ... again, worked for awhile. Pulling the fuse is not an option because with that fuse out, the windows won't operate, nor can I shift out of park. I can now say that the switches I installed have served their purpose ... and saved me a headache.
curtiskline
• Tulsa, OK, USA
• Registered on 7/25/2005
• 12 posts
Posted:8/1/2006 14:09
Does anyone have an install guide for these door-ajar kill switches? Or any suggestions? My door ajar problem is driving me insane these days, and it sounds like replacing all six switches is no guarantee. I'd rather just put in toggle switches.

Thanks,
Curtis


2001 Excursion, 7.3L PSD, 2WD
Log: http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/detail.php?id=9507&showlog=1#log
LANDYOT  SuperMotors Member
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• Newport News, VA, USA
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Posted:8/1/2006 15:58
curtis - Changing the switches inside the doors should work, just MAKE CERTAIN that the switches you buy are all delivered in plastic-bag wrapping, and not in little cardboard boxes. The plastic wrapped switches are newer. I do remember that I used the boxed switches in the rear doors, and all the others were plastic wrapped. None of the other door switches have caused me a moment's problem.

I wish I kept the schematic I drew up for the kill switches. Mine's an '01 model, too. It took me a couple hours pouring through the factory wiring diagrams book to figure out exactly where I needed to make my splices (all were under the dashboard).

That reminds me .... Get yourself a set of factory service manuals (2 volume set) & the factory wiring book at www.helminc.com ... they're worth their weight in gold.
edited 8/1/2006 16:02
curtiskline
• Tulsa, OK, USA
• Registered on 7/25/2005
• 12 posts
Posted:8/1/2006 16:06
I will try replacing the switches rather than digging into wiring diagrams. Do you (or anyone) happen to have Ford part numbers for these? I can go to my dealer's parts counter, but they aren't the friendliest folks and I am not even certain how to describe the parts I want.

Thanks,
Curtis


2001 Excursion, 7.3L PSD, 2WD
Log: http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/detail.php?id=9507&showlog=1#log
LANDYOT  SuperMotors Member
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Posted:8/1/2006 16:20
I don't have the part numbers. Just tell them you need all six door ajar switches. They shouldn't charge you more than about $10 each for them. Think I paid around $7 each a couple years back.

BTW, send me an e-mail and I'll reply with the one image I scanned from the service manual that'll help you "unclip" the switches from inside the doors. I hope you're a contortionist 'cause the four front door switches are a PITA to get at ... the liftgate is a breeze in comparison.

Also, search this site some more because you'll find some discussions on how to remove the door panels, and the interior trim of the lifgate.
Ford Excursion Forums > Ford Excursion V8, V10, and Powerstroke > Excursion Discussion
Rear doors and door ajar
Thread Statistics:     Users to Post: 4   |   Total Posts: 8   |   Total Views: 1220
You must be logged in to post in or subscribe to this thread.Pages: 1

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