FordExcursions.com Forums
Picturemaker
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• virginia beach, VA, USA |
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• Registered on 2/27/2003 |
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• 10 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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 Posted:5/3/2005 20:17 |
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About a year ago, my 2000 X developed a problem with the brakes. I've experience warped rotor before, but not like this. The vibration would only happen sometimes, and there was no common denominator as to when the would do it. I also didn't feel it through the pedal, but more through the steering. I took it to the dealer for some other work, as well as an inspection. I was told that I needed a brake job AND ball joints. The X only had 75K miles on her. I can see needing brakes, but ball joints? My X is stock and used as a normal vehicle, no off-roading, and I tow a 6,000lb trailer 4-5 times a year.
They did the work and the X drove like a charm. That was, up until 2 weeks ago. Suddenly I'm back to were I was a year ago. Has anyone ever experienced this? What is it? |
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E. Long
 
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• Subscriber since 1/1/2001 |
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• Atlanta, GA, USA |
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• Registered on 1/23/2001 |
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• 2,229 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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Posted:5/3/2005 20:59 |
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| Quote: | About a year ago, my 2000 X developed a problem with the brakes. I've experience warped rotor before, but not like this. The vibration would only happen sometimes, and there was no common denominator as to when the would do it. I also didn't feel it through the pedal, but more through the steering. I took it to the dealer for some other work, as well as an inspection. I was told that I needed a brake job AND ball joints. The X only had 75K miles on her. I can see needing brakes, but ball joints? My X is stock and used as a normal vehicle, no off-roading, and I tow a 6,000lb trailer 4-5 times a year.
They did the work and the X drove like a charm. That was, up until 2 weeks ago. Suddenly I'm back to were I was a year ago. Has anyone ever experienced this? What is it? |
Ball joints characteristically will make driving in a straight line difficult without constantly adjusting and will also make noises when you turn.
The pulsating you are feeling through the steering wheel is the result of warped rotors (again). Do you rotate your own tires or does a shop do it? Regardless, you/they need to make sure that the lug nuts are torqued to 165 ft-lbs. No ifs, ands, or buts about it.
My ball joints were bad and I replaced them at 130,000 miles.
How many miles have you put on the new brakes and ball joints?
When you had the brake job, did they turn (resurface) the rotors or did they install new ones?
-Eric
'67 Galaxie 500 - 390 FE, .030" over, FE to AOD adapter, disc brake conversion. The Daily Driver.
'00 Excursion - 7.3L PSD, LANDYOT Gen-II Radius Rods, Factory Tech Valve Body, 200K+ miles and going |
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Picturemaker
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• virginia beach, VA, USA |
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• Registered on 2/27/2003 |
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• 10 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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Posted:5/4/2005 21:11 |
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I questioned the need for ball joints at 75K miles. I never experienced the knocking noise. It has always "wandered" and I've read much here that explains how to stop that. I now have 89K miles.
I have the tires rotated (stock Steeltex with 10K miles) every 5-7K. The last set of tires were the same make and model, and fell under the latest recall. I always take it to the Firestone dealer. From now on I'm going to bring it home after they do the rotation and torque them myself. It's hard to find competent mechs around here.
They did turn the rotors when doing the break job and have 14K mile on the job. They are the originals. I'm considering ART's, but I've heard some complain about these warping as well. Should I install a Johnson bar with a wood brake???
Thanks for your time and input.... |
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E. Long
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• Subscriber since 1/1/2001 |
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• Atlanta, GA, USA |
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• Registered on 1/23/2001 |
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• 2,229 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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Posted:5/4/2005 21:52 |
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| Quote: | | I questioned the need for ball joints at 75K miles. I never experienced the knocking noise. It has always "wandered" and I've read much here that explains how to stop that. I now have 89K miles. |
I think the 130k I got out of my ball joints was above average judging by what others have said. Regardless, it's a "wear" item and you should be set on those for another 100K.
| Quote: | | I have the tires rotated (stock Steeltex with 10K miles) every 5-7K. The last set of tires were the same make and model, and fell under the latest recall. I always take it to the Firestone dealer. From now on I'm going to bring it home after they do the rotation and torque them myself. It's hard to find competent mechs around here. |
I always had my tires rotated at Ford and they never torqued the lug nuts correctly. The Excursion is the only vehicle that I've experienced this type of consistent rotor warping on and it's the only one that is so picky about lug nut torque values.
| Quote: | They did turn the rotors when doing the break job and have 14K mile on the job. They are the originals. I'm considering ART's, but I've heard some complain about these warping as well. Should I install a Johnson bar with a wood brake???
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14K sounds about right with what I'd get out of factory rotors before they'd be warped again. It got to the point where Ford didn't cover them under warranty anymore (outside of my bumper-to-bumper and since they are a wear item, they come with limited warranty anyway). I opted for the ART's.
Yes, ART's still can warp, as with anything else. The ART's took significantly longer than the OEM rotors to warp before I finally figured out that torque values were important. I've since had my ART's turned, torqued the lug nuts to 165 ft-lbs, retorqued after a couple hundred miles just to make sure, and it's working out great. I think my dashboard was and steering wheel were moving about an inch from the puslating...it was really, really bad.
The ARTs stop significantly better than OEM rotors too, which is really nice. Take advantage of the 10% off with the SuperMotors subcriber discount and you'll have yourself a nice brand new set of rotors and brake pads. I went with front and rear.
I've had my OEM rotors turned 3 or 4 times. I think it gets to a point where it's a lost cause and you can pretty much expect them to warp again. I'm wondering if the heat build-up and the warping is actually weakening the rotor and making it more susceptible to warping.
Let me know if you have any other questions. It certainly is frustrating to deal with. I had gotten so used to it that it feels kind of funny to not have the pulsating anymore. How pathetic is that? 
-Eric
'67 Galaxie 500 - 390 FE, .030" over, FE to AOD adapter, disc brake conversion. The Daily Driver.
'00 Excursion - 7.3L PSD, LANDYOT Gen-II Radius Rods, Factory Tech Valve Body, 200K+ miles and going |
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Picturemaker
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• virginia beach, VA, USA |
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• Registered on 2/27/2003 |
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• 10 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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Posted:5/8/2005 08:44 |
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Eric,
 Thanks very much for your insight. I feel better knowing my X is not the only one out there with a similiar problem. Yesterday I jacked the X up a corner at a time and torqued the wheels to 165 lbs. I am going to order some ARTS in the hopes to minimize this problem.
Regards,
Doug |
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