fredws
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• Stillwater, OK, USA |
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• Registered on 11/7/2005 |
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• 4 posts |
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 Posted:11/7/2005 09:19 |
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I have a 2000 Ex which has started shaking when I brake. It amost seems like the anti-lock brake system is stuck in "engaged" mode. If you are at highway speeds and start to brake, it feels like you are driving over those "wake-up" bumps at the side of the road.
I tried using the emergency brake, it doesn't do it then. I also do not feel it in the steering wheel or the brake pedal. Any ideas? |
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CHPMustang
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• Plano, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 7/24/2002 |
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• 1,800 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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Posted:11/7/2005 09:47 |
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2000 Excursion I'd have to say "Warped Rotors" as my first guess.
Get your rotors serviced and new pads. Torque the wheel nuts to 165 ft-lbs.
Bill
2002 Excursion XLT-P 4x4 7.3L Powerstroke Diesel
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E. Long
 
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• Subscriber since 1/1/2001 |
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• Atlanta, GA, USA |
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• Registered on 1/23/2001 |
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• 2,229 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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Posted:11/7/2005 10:36 |
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| Quote: | I have a 2000 Ex which has started shaking when I brake. It amost seems like the anti-lock brake system is stuck in "engaged" mode. If you are at highway speeds and start to brake, it feels like you are driving over those "wake-up" bumps at the side of the road.
I tried using the emergency brake, it doesn't do it then. I also do not feel it in the steering wheel or the brake pedal. Any ideas? |
Are these the original front rotors? How many miles on them?
If you get the rotors turned, the problem will most likely creep back up again and again. If you can't feel it in the steering wheel yet, then it's probably just the start of the problem. Get the rotors turned as soon as you can to prevent further damage to the rotors.
-Eric
'67 Galaxie 500 - 390 FE, .030" over, FE to AOD adapter, disc brake conversion. The Daily Driver.
'00 Excursion - 7.3L PSD, LANDYOT Gen-II Radius Rods, Factory Tech Valve Body, 200K+ miles and going |
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fredws
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• Stillwater, OK, USA |
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• Registered on 11/7/2005 |
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• 4 posts |
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Posted:11/7/2005 12:42 |
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Not sure if they are the original or not, bought the Excursion used. The vehicle has 140,000 on it.
I think I will have the rotors turned by a shop that has a Pro Cuts lathe, to bring the lateral run out back into specs.
A question on the anti-lock brake thing though, is the pulsation from that constant, or does it vary with speed?
Thanks! |
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monsta
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• The Big Island, HI, USA |
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• Registered on 1/5/2002 |
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• 1,056 posts |
• 2 Vehicles
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Posted:11/7/2005 15:58 |
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| Quote: | A question on the anti-lock brake thing though, is the pulsation from that constant, or does it vary with speed?
Thanks! |
It is fairly constant but it does feel totally different than warped rotors. ABS engagement won't shake the whole truck either. You hear an almost mechanical ratcheting sound when the ABS engages.
Keep in mind that resurfacing rotors has the propensity to increase "warpage" in the future.
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CHPMustang
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• Plano, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 7/24/2002 |
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• 1,800 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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Posted:11/7/2005 18:15 |
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If the rotors have sufficient surface area with no cracks or heat spots(blueish) they'll be turnable.
Take the Excursion to a known reputable shop that regularly does truck brake and alignment services. 
Bill
2002 Excursion XLT-P 4x4 7.3L Powerstroke Diesel
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bigfoot567
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• Fort Worth, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 3/18/2005 |
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• 55 posts |
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Posted:11/8/2005 13:18 |
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I'm having the same "whole truck "shuddering when I brake, not all the time but about half the time, so I suppose I'm due for resurfacing the rotors. I'm running Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads and have been very satisfied with them so far. ( about 25,000 miles on them now )
Any ideas on the rotors? Do I need to plan an shelling out the $700 + for the ART rotors for the supposedly best. longest lasting non-shuddering service? Or are there other less pricey options for rotors that you guys can suggest?
Perf Friction does make a 2-piece rotor for the fronts only for list price of $261 per side, so that's a little cheaper, but it's not slotted and drilled. supposedly the 2 pc version helps with warpage problems they told me.
I never tow anything, or haul heavy loads, just a flat higway daily driver with 130K miles on the ticker.
Thanks |
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E. Long
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• Subscriber since 1/1/2001 |
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• Atlanta, GA, USA |
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• Registered on 1/23/2001 |
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• 2,229 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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Posted:11/8/2005 13:36 |
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I'm going to be updating the installation article that I posted a couple years ago on the ART rotor install. It's going to include video on how to change your brakes out and video of how badly my interior was shaking when I'd stop. I will also discuss in the article how to correctly break in new rotors and pads.
Regarding your situation, I would get your rotors machined for now. It most likely will not last, but will be a good bandaid for the problem. You are most likely looking at new rotors to completely eliminate the vibrations.
I don't do any towing either, just a highway/city cruiser with 156K on the odometer. The ART rotors do improve stopping distance as well as prevent against warping due to them being cryogenically frozen and slotted. My experience is only with OEM rotors and ART rotors so I cannot comment on other brands. There are certainly cheaper and more expensive rotors available on the market. Hopefully others can chime in with experiences, but the majority here who have gone aftermarket have gone with ARTs due to the 10% discount provided to SuperMotors subscribers.
-Eric
'67 Galaxie 500 - 390 FE, .030" over, FE to AOD adapter, disc brake conversion. The Daily Driver.
'00 Excursion - 7.3L PSD, LANDYOT Gen-II Radius Rods, Factory Tech Valve Body, 200K+ miles and going |
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flyersfan1961
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• Gambrills, MD, USA |
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• Registered on 11/18/2005 |
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• 2 posts |
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Posted:11/18/2005 11:12 |
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I feel the front brakes for this size truck are undersized. I'm a certiifed mechanic and I've turned my rotors only to have the problem reappear. I figured the rotors got so hot that the heat transfered deeply into the heart of the rotor and by just turning them I would never get all the affected metal out. I replaced the rotors and within 2 weeks the shuttering was back. I believe that one of the pads maybe sticking causing the over heating problem. I will be turning my rotors again today and I will remove a little metal from the pad corners where they are held in place. This may give some more freedom of movement for the pads. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I THINK THEY ARE UNDERSIZED. TOO MANY PEOPLE HAVING PROBLEMS WITH BRAKES. |
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Oil-Pig
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• Sheboygan, WI, USA |
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• Registered on 11/17/2005 |
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• 52 posts |
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Posted:11/29/2005 10:21 |
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I have a similar problem but mine only shakes when slowing down fast from highway speeds. I will get a vibration starting at 45mph and it goes away by 35mph. I am going to change the shocks and rotate the tires to see if it helps. 
I'd rather be in the boat with a drink on the rocks then in the drink with the boat on the rocks.... But either way theres gonna be a good story!!!  |
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