FordExcursions.com Forums
Matt Cawson
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• Caledonia, MI, USA |
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• Registered on 10/20/2004 |
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• 82 posts |
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 Posted:2/25/2006 16:17 |
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Anyone have any idea where the feed is for the left turn output on the truck/trailer plug? I have everything but left turn, no power on that pin. I chased it as far as I could where it goes into the frame and to the front of the truck but I'm lost at that point. Any help would be appreciated.
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Doug Loper
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• Byron Center, MI, USA |
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• Registered on 9/26/2003 |
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• 114 posts |
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Matt Cawson
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• Caledonia, MI, USA |
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• Registered on 10/20/2004 |
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• 82 posts |
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Posted:2/25/2006 18:49 |
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Thanks. I had the license plate off and you can get to the harness enough to push it down and get ahold of it from the bottom to unplug it. Once it's unplugged I checked for voltage on the female side and still nothing. After that I have no idea where it goes. Should I cut the left turn feed from the harness if I splice in from the tail light? Might get some back feed or double voltage if it ever decides to work on it's own. Any easy way to tell which one feeds the left turn on the truck? I see your pics on the link you gave me. Maybe you can describe it by one of the pictures. If bumper removal is that easy, I might do it so I can re-paint my hitch. Thanks again. |
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MechanicOfNY
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• Northport, NY, USA |
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• Registered on 2/23/2006 |
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• 3 posts |
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Posted:2/25/2006 21:14 |
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The left turn signal supply to the Trailer Tow connector should be pin 1, which has a yellow wire, and is circuit 52. This is fused by a 7.5 amp fuse in the big Battery Junction Fuse Box under the hood on the driver's side, which connects the trailer yellow lead to the lead supplying power to the truck's turn signal lamp. This fuse protects the turn signal "Multifunction" switch and flasher, in case the trailer wiring is shorted. The first thing is to check this 7.5 amp fuse. My wiring diagram says it is at position 20, and my fuse box cover is labeled with the fuse positions. Now if the fuse is ok, there are two intermediate connectors to check, C1046, and C407, all with the same yellow wire. C407 is located in the "LH rear of vehicle, near bumper", and has 12 terminals. C1046 is "LH side of engine compartment, below brake fluid reservoir", and has 12 terminals and is gray. There are 4 big connectors there, lined up. C1046 is closest to the fire wall. Unless you played around in the engine compartment, or got thing really wet (power washed, or sprayed gunk, or drove through really deep water), C1046 is probably OK. I would wiggle it, and push it together. If it moves, that is your problem, It is possible a connector pin is corroded, or somehow loose. It is more likely the connector by the bumper has been really hosed down. I would separate that connector, and check for flashing voltage on the pin connected to the yellow wire, which is on pin 2 of the female connector, which is the top most left hole. The top and bottom both have 2 smaller holes. The sides both have 2 larger holes. The connector is slightly wider, side to side, and two rows of 4 holes go up and down. When you hold the connector so the 2 rows of 4 holes are up and down, there are small tabs on each side, which are closer to the top, The top and bottom have much larger tabs.
Years ago I once rode over a screwdriver in the road, heard a loud clang, pulled over my 86 suburban, stopped, found the screwdriver, and could not start back up. No cranking. With the ignition on I used a jumper wire to supply battery power to the starter solenoid relay, and got started. I drove home, and the next day discovered that the flying screwdriver had neatly severed a wire. So, you might have a cut wire somewhere. Since the wires are all bundled and covered, it is hard to trace that yellow one, but if you are determined, you can do it. I sure would check that 7.5 amp fuse first.
This beast is so electrically complicated, you need to buy the wiring diagrams to figure anything out. I paid $75.00 in 2001 for the wiring diagrams, and another $140 or so for the 2 shop manuals, each 3 inches thick. Wish you luck.
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Doug Loper
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• Byron Center, MI, USA |
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• Registered on 9/26/2003 |
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• 114 posts |
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Posted:2/26/2006 09:41 |
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I cut the original lead, like you said I didn't want and gremlins later. The bumper was fairly easy to remove, I think there were four bolts holding it on, it is not very heavy I did the whole thing on my own. I used a simple curcuit tester to find the turn signal lead, you could also use volt meter, since you mention you have one. 
2000 X V-10
Mods: 6" Revtek lift
35" M/T Baja Claw Radials
16" x 10" Eagle Alloy Rims
Superlifts Truspeed Calibrator
Pioneer DVD surround sound system.
SilverStar 9007
Clear front corners. |
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HBJJAM
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• Minneapolis, MN, USA |
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• Registered on 6/23/2005 |
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• 94 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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Posted:2/26/2006 14:27 |
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Please do not do what i did and start pulling down wires looking for a bad connection or broken wire.
I spent 2 hours on that and turns out there was a seperate fuse for each signal, including trailer output.
simple fuse replacement and I was on my way.  |
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Matt Cawson
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• Caledonia, MI, USA |
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• Registered on 10/20/2004 |
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• 82 posts |
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Posted:2/26/2006 18:33 |
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ahhhh. Nicely done MechanicOfNY. One simple fuse and blammo, left turn back on! Wish everything was that easy. Thanks!  |
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MechanicOfNY
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• Northport, NY, USA |
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• Registered on 2/23/2006 |
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• 3 posts |
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Posted:2/26/2006 20:55 |
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Matt Cawson: Glad I could help. My goal in life is to fix as much of the world as I can get to, and I just got to you, via the Internet. Many years ago, I once directed a totally clueless artist in the installation of a toilet and all the associated plumbing - 4 inch drain pipe, plastic "Lead Bend", and water supply, all in an old NYC loft building - done from 30 miles away over the phone. Took half a day and dozens of calls. That was my only royal flush. Fixed by phone.
MORAL of your story: When lights don't work, check the bulb, and then the fuse. The trouble with modern cars is there are multiple fuse boxes, and multiple fusible links, and even some separate inline fuses. Gets tricky. Very tricky. |
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