FordExcursions.com Forums
Stang_hauler
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• Indianapolis, IN, USA |
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• Registered on 7/21/2004 |
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• 14 posts |
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 Posted:2/21/2007 23:47 |
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Ok I did a search and found some related topics on this but no definate answer.
I noticed today my oil pan is rusting through.  Can it be replaced without removing the entire engine in a 4x4 7.3? Has anyone done this?
If not does anyone have a guess at how much I'm looking at to have an independant shop do this?
thanks in advance
2000 limited PSD X
Mile Marker hubs
Helliwig rear sway |
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aklim
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• Hartford, WI, USA |
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• Registered on 2/20/2006 |
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• 133 posts |
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Posted:2/21/2007 23:58 |
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Have to take the engine out. Independent or not they go by book time. See what Ford wants for time and chances are that is what they want too.
01 Excursion. Gauges with AIH Delete, AIS Air Filter system, CCV Mod, 4' MBRP, BTS Trans, 6.0L Trans Cooler and Intercooler, DP-Tuner F6 chip, ITP In Tank Mod and Boost Annihilator, Diesel Innovation's Regulated Fuel kit, BTS Big Oil system, GTP38R Turbo with 1.15 A/R housing and BDP Stage II AC injectors. Bilstein Shocks with U code front and A code Rear. Billet thermostat housing |
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Tedfrd
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• Mountain Lake Park, MD, USA |
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• Registered on 8/28/2006 |
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• 1 post |
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Posted:2/22/2007 16:01 |
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FORD actually had a TSB out about this. They said it wasn't serious, just sand and paint - RIGHT.
Anyway, yes, the engine does need to come out to replace the oil pan. My local Ford Stealer quoted me $800 plus the oil pan. My local mechanic said it would be "a LOT less" than $800. As I understand the situation the oil pan needs to be installed with the engine upside down.
Of course, As long as you have the engine out and the pan off you might as well replace the fuel pump and the pasky riser tube that can also rust. (Metal rusting in an oil environment - who woulda thunk?).
Oh yea, check your rear differential cover as well.
BTW, where can I get an aluminum oil pan for the 7.3L PSD? |
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Stang_hauler
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• Indianapolis, IN, USA |
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• Registered on 7/21/2004 |
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• 14 posts |
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Posted:2/23/2007 09:01 |
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thanks for the replies. for anyone iterested here is more info on what i found out.
I ended up calling around for quotes. Just like aklim and tedfrd said you need to pull the engine for this job. Every shop (including dealaerships) told me it's about 17 hours of labor plus parts. So here in Indianapolis that's around $1500.
The crossmember is riveted in with 12 rivets plus its also welded to the frame. Most of the rivets look like they are almost impossible to get to with an air chisel to cut off the heads. It just blows my mind that they would design it this way and not think about making other provisions so you can pull the pan w/out pulling out the motor.
Normally I would just do the work myself but it's been really cold here lately so my wife is not too keen on the idea of me taking up her spot int the garage for a few weeks. Plus we just had our third child 2 weeks ago and I much rather spend my free time sleeping 
Thanks for the tip on the pick up tube. I had no idea they tend to rust but at this point am not surprised at all. I told the shop I am having do the work check the rear main seal and anything else that could leak while the engines out. I replaced the Diff cover last year. I looked for a aluminum pan but can't find one either.
To be honest I'm not sure how much longer I will be keeping this truck. Right now it's my "weekend" toy but It's going to become my wifes daily driver once she returns to work from maternity leave (can't fit 3 car seats in her car). The last thing I want to do is worry about what else is going to break while she's driving it. This is just the latest in a seeminly unending list of repairs I have been doing lately (last week the ESOF transfercase motor died for no apparent reason). I am just getting tired of hearing "wow thats unusual" or "I've never heard of that failing" every time I need something fixed on this beast. I'm sure part of it's because I purchased it used, but there have been alot of repairs I've done that were due to plain old bad engineering/ cost cutting measures(ball joints, lousy rotors, wheel bearings, door lock actuators, etc) by Ford.
OK I'll stop ranting now.
2000 limited PSD X
Mile Marker hubs
Helliwig rear sway |
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