SuperMotors.net Forums
fordboi
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• minneapolis, MN, USA |
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• Registered on 4/24/2012 |
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• 4 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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 Posted:4/24/2012 22:20 |
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Someone please, I am in dyer need of help, my battery light has been on and I read about it, and most will say its the alternator. But it was in fact not the alt at all, so I cleans the terminals of carrosion and also wires. Light still finds itself popping on, so I got a new battery because it was bout time for a new one anyway also new terminals, the light disappeared .....for a short time, its back on and now at low tons my on dash lights will dim a lil as well as headlights, also makes my radio sound like its gonna go out. Any ideas it seems I\\'ve done all the expensive stuff already |
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cvpip71y2k
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• st louis, MO, USA |
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• Registered on 2/25/2012 |
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• 67 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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 Posted:4/25/2012 00:13 |
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check your fuses
make sure the alternator connections are connected correctly and tight
check ground for battery and make sure its tight and clean
make sure positive and negative terminals on battery are sufficiently tightened and as far down on the posts as possible
get a voltage tester and test alternator either yourself or have someone do it, im not positive but i think it should read around 14.1 or so
also if your belt is old replace it. get a goodyear gatorback (mine has 4090915)
sounds to me like its your alternator though. what have you done to be SURE its not the problem? you can pick up a rebuild kit for pretty cheap. what brand battery did you buy? |
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jdmeaux
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• Lafayette, LA, USA |
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• Registered on 1/5/2009 |
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• 525 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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Posted:4/25/2012 06:43 |
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Definitely sounds like the alternator. Go to an Auto Zone, O'Reilly's, or Advanced Autoparts. They will test it for free on the car. If its bad, get a new one or rebuild this one.
Corrosion on the terminals and contacts will cause this problem too. If you are sure you cleaned them good, put some silicon di-electric paste (the stuff you use on spark plug ends) to prevent future corrosion.
Speaking of corrosion, there are times were you can get the corrosion to build up INSIDE the wires under the plastic coating. Normally this will happen on a battery positive cable. The only solution is to replace the cable. But I have seen it on an alternator cable and had to replace it.
Have fun, and let us know what you found out.
*******************
PROUD MEMBER of www.crownvic.net
It's just a SUPER-DUTY Mustang GT Sedan. 198K miles and still rolling HARD.
1997 Crown Victoria P71 SVT *** ex-US Marshall service (the CAR)
STOCK?? I bet it was modified. 
13.26 @ 107.24 MPH 1/4 mi w/ me, tools, & full tank of 93 octane
I added CAI, NICHE 19 X 8.5 " wheels with 245/45ZR 19 rubbers, and completely rebuilt the front end with poly bushings, Kooks headers, 2 1/4inch exhaust, TCI 2200-2400 rpm Stall converter
.PLANS:: engine upgrade, 5.4L 2v stroker, rebuild interior in leather w/ buckets, thinking about turbos
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wizzard1222
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• Ballwin, MO, USA |
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• Registered on 1/27/2011 |
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• 139 posts |
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Posted:4/25/2012 10:02 |
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Double check the twisted copper ends to the terminal ports...if they are have corrosion ...be sure to separate them/the strands of copper wire...clean them....then compress them back together to fit in the terminal ports...
This can lead to many repeated attempts to figure out what's happening to lack of good connections...  |
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