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Aerkusa
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• Bettendorf, IA, USA |
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• Registered on 12/4/2015 |
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• 4 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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 Posted:12/4/2015 16:23 |
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first off, this forum is great and very helpful. I purchased my first bronco last wednesday and have been on here reading nearly every night since. Got a whole grocery list of things I want to do. BUT FIRST, I need to solve a couple issues.
I've done some searching for similar issues, but I can't find anyone who has ALL my symptoms, and since I just picked up the bronco I'm not sure which ones are from the same issues, or which ones are separate issues. I also have no real idea what I'm doing, to be honest.
First, the symptoms: The ABS light turns on almost as soon as the truck starts moving forward. I haven't pulled the code for that yet. The Check Engine light comes on after the truck warms up. The codes I pulled are 553 552 332 311 and 213.
When the truck first starts up, cold, it doesn't move forward in neutral. In fact, it takes more accelerator pedal than I'm comfortable with to get it rolling, like the brakes are seizing up. I saw the article in the FAQ about -'92 trucks rear brakes seizing up. Is that also an issue with a '95? The parking brake for sure seizes, but I've manually backed that off using the adjustment nut on the rears. Other than that it seems to have a slight loss of power. At idle after startup it runs about 1250 RPMs, which I imagine is on purpose. After it starts moving it drops to about 850-900 at idle (using stock tachometer).
Once it warms up, the check engine light comes on, I imagine because it tries to open the EGR and cannot. After the check engine light is on and I'm at idle, the oil pressure drops and the idle gets rough. It sits at 850 for a few seconds, there's a very faint 'click' (solenoid?) and then RPMs drop to 600, raise to 1000, drop to 600, and then settle back at 850. after a few seconds it does the RPM dance again. Oil pressure drops off completely into the red. I imagine the oil is too thin and the bearings are a bit worn (although there is no clicking). However, the seizing brake issues go away; it crawls forward at idle when you take your foot off the brake like it should. Oddly, if I turn the steering wheel too much when it's idling rough, it will kill the engine. I will have to wait a minute before I can start it back up, there's no response from turning the key until I turn it completely off and back on.
Now for your entertainment, my diagnosis. I'll remind you I have no idea what I'm talking about: I think that the vacuum reservoir tin can or one of the vacuum lines has a hole in it, causing the error codes when the engine warms up and tries to open the EGR valve. I think it only happens once the engine warms up because there's not enough vacuum being generated when cruising warm. I think there's probably a clog in one of the brake lines that's causing them to be seized up slightly and setting off the ABS light. There also may be an issue with the battery ground... I don't have much evidence for that except the ground cable coming off the battery terminal and attached to the engine block looks shitty.
Oh, I should mention the previous owner was a mechanic at his father's shop, and there are a few new parts. The front steering and suspension he says is all new aside from the pump and box, the rear axle diff was services and the seals redone, a new water pump, a new battery, and the battery cables look new. There was also a distributor cap and rotor that looked brand new still in their boxes in the truck when I got it.
I've got some time to mess with it tomorrow, let me know if there's anything you want me to take a look at, pictures that would help, or any information I forgot.
I'm sure if I messed around with it I could figure it out eventually, but if y'all don't mind reading my wall of text I'd sure appreciate your experience and knowledge on the subject. Thanks! |
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