SuperMotors.net Forums
aureus
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• Melbourne, FL, USA |
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• Registered on 10/5/2012 |
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• 3 posts |
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 Posted:10/5/2012 19:25 |
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Recently I began overheating a bit and had to replace the water pump on my 99 CV. The reason is that the propellers were completely gone. After replacing the pump I began having boil over problems so I replaced the thermostat. This didn't fix the problem. Since the coolant looked like rust and the reservoir was full of what looked like red clay I decided to change the radiator. Again this didn't fix the problem. Since I didn't replace the hoses that was next on the list. The car ran fine for about a week all I had to do was keep tightening the hose clamps to stop some weeping. Today, I get the boil over again and the coolant whats left of it in the reservoir is the rusty color.
One thing I notice before the temperature goes up is it actually registers normal (4 bars) then low (2 to 3 bars) then maxes out and starts to beep. It also starts running rough when this happens. When I would pull over the temp goes down.
I have replaced the intake a few years ago to the one with the aluminum coolant runner. I never had any cooling issues prior to replacing the water pump. The car has 231000 miles on it and runs pretty good.
I had the system flushed a few years ago and the color of the coolant they put in was orange so I thought the rust color was just the coolant.
So, with this being said I'm to my point. Any help would be greatly welcomed. |
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jdmeaux
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• Lafayette, LA, USA |
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• Registered on 1/5/2009 |
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• 525 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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 Posted:10/6/2012 05:59 |
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Two things here. You will need to get a complete system flush again. This will clean most of the junk stuck in the engine block. Even changing out all the hoses and radiator, you will still end up with some heavier particles in the fluid in the engine block. That's the reason for the flush.
How is the transmission? I had two cars start overheating for no reason, and I learned it was bad clutches in the transmission was causing slipping. Put a tach on the engine, and run it around a while. If it looks like its running faster in RPMs than usual, its the clutches.
*******************
PROUD MEMBER of www.crownvic.net
It's just a SUPER-DUTY Mustang GT Sedan. 198K miles and still rolling HARD.
1997 Crown Victoria P71 SVT *** ex-US Marshall service (the CAR)
STOCK?? I bet it was modified. 
13.26 @ 107.24 MPH 1/4 mi w/ me, tools, & full tank of 93 octane
I added CAI, NICHE 19 X 8.5 " wheels with 245/45ZR 19 rubbers, and completely rebuilt the front end with poly bushings, Kooks headers, 2 1/4inch exhaust, TCI 2200-2400 rpm Stall converter
.PLANS:: engine upgrade, 5.4L 2v stroker, rebuild interior in leather w/ buckets, thinking about turbos
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aureus
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• Melbourne, FL, USA |
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• Registered on 10/5/2012 |
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• 3 posts |
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Posted:10/6/2012 13:42 |
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I have flushed it out at least three times but it wouldn't hurt to do it again. (It was pretty bad) tranny seems to run great I was getting a belt churp but replaced the tensioner didn't replace the belt because it looked still good. Still get a small churp when it shifts up when I get on it from a stand still but not too bad. |
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aureus
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• Melbourne, FL, USA |
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• Registered on 10/5/2012 |
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• 3 posts |
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Posted:3/19/2013 14:57 |
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Ok, after multiple flushes it seems I have a blown head gasket or an actual crack. The cap releases the coolant before it is even hot, the upper radiator hose is rock solid and cool to the touch and the lower is soft and hot. There is a sludge in the tank that smells of oil but looks like red clay mud. The car has about 235000 miles on it and I'm not sure if fixing the head problem will cause other problems in the lower engine or not. Not looking forward to doing it or a complete engine build. Any thoughts?
Thanks |
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