SuperMotors.net Forums
topfisherman
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• Unknown, WI, USA |
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• Registered on 4/24/2003 |
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• 13 posts |
• 2 Vehicles
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 Posted:6/4/2003 21:50 |
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Just a couple days ago, I put my bronco in 4-wheel drive to try it out since it hadn't been engaged in awhile. I have the original automatic hubs and I know that they are not too good any more. When I put it in 4-wheel drive, the hubs made a metal griding sound, but they engaged. When I was backing the truck up to unlock the hubs, they keep making grinding sounds ever once in awhile and it took 3/4 of a block before they unlocked. Today I drove the truck and it felt like the hubs were still engaged and when I pulled into my drive way, the hubs started poping. So I backed the truck up some more and they seemed to unlock. I then touched the hubs and they were pretty warm and they were tight and could not be moved at all; before I put it in 4-wheel drive, the hubs were able to be moved a little and they never got warm. I want to buy some new Warm premium hubs and I was wondering if any thing else would have to be replaced with the hubs like the spindles, since it was making so much noise?
P.S.: I tried puting the truck in 4L and the shifter lever wouldnt move past 4H, not even into the neutral postion. I pulled on the shifter pretty good and it wouldnt budge. Any clue what is going on?
Sorry for the long post. Thanks now for any info. |
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Pony-boy
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• Roy, WA, USA |
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• Registered on 3/9/2003 |
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• 147 posts |
• 7 Vehicles
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 Posted:6/5/2003 02:23 |
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Hey bud,
First, Don't drive it anymore. You could have the hubs partially engaged and chewing on your stub shaft, Check the ends when you take the hubs off to see if they have been damaged. If not--proceed
Second,
Buy the conversion kit for the auto to manual, It's about $45 and comes with the new lock washers and nuts you will need.
Good choise to go with WARN 
Thats not dented, It's customized |
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topfisherman
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• Unknown, WI, USA |
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• Registered on 4/24/2003 |
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• 13 posts |
• 2 Vehicles
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Posted:6/5/2003 18:31 |
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Thanks for the help
Would I need to get the coversion kit if my auto hubs come with the 5 screws instead of 3? Also, what about my shifter problems that i wrote about before?
My bronco is a 1992-302 v-8 with a warner 1356 T-case. |
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BoulderBronco
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• Telluride, CO, USA |
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• Registered on 7/6/2002 |
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• 105 posts |
• 2 Vehicles
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Posted:6/5/2003 19:43 |
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You know you have to push down on the lever and then pull to get into 4low. You also need to be in neutral and not moving. I agree with Pony on the hubs. Get the Warn Premiums and forget about it. Yes you will need the conversion kit.
93 Bronco,White/Green
Engine:
351W, 130 amp alternator, AGR High Pressure power steering pump, Custom K&N intakes, BroncoAir YORK on-board-air kit,
Drivetrain:
E4OD tranny, BW 1356 T-Case, 6" Superlift w/radius arms, Superlift Superrunner Steering Kit, D44 TTB front w/ARB, Warn Premium hubs, 4.88 gears, Ford 8.8 rear, custom CV driveshaft front, custom length driveshaft rear, 37" MTR's, BroncoAir Extreme Duty Winch Bumper, Warn M12000 winch,
Other: Lund Moon Visor, Tinted windows, PIAA 90Series fog/driving lights, full size spare, Uniden CB, kick ass stereo, Alpine MP3 head unit, CD/MP3 Changer, Orion amps, Boston 12" subs, MBQuart components.
Future: D60 front w/ custom coils, Sterling 10.25" rear, ARB's and 4.88's, full Bassani Exhaust/Header system, hopefully a supercharger but ya know it's all about the $$$$$$$$$
I am also the owner of BroncoAir
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BigSwede
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• Sarna, XX, Sweden |
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• Registered on 8/17/2002 |
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• 36 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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 Posted:6/6/2003 03:51 |
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I have expirienced that the hubs feel better if I stand still with the trans in neutral when engaging the 4x4 and after that IŽll lock the frontend while backing in reverse.
To unlock IŽll do the same.
I donŽt use 4x4 more than once every two months but I have never had any problems with my stockhubs.
Well Warn is a damn good brand and I will also use Warn premium hubs the day my will have worn out...
Bronco XLT -89
Stock 302cui EFI, K&N
AOD
2" Body lift (not been aplied yet) in the garage...
1300+ watts stereo
JVC MP3 cd
3 amps:1x 2x100w, 1x 2x200w, 1x 2x400w
8 speakers: 2x 6,5" lanzar, 2x 7x10" DLS, 2x 6x9" DLS, 2x 10" Lanzar
New pics!! |
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topfisherman
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• Unknown, WI, USA |
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• Registered on 4/24/2003 |
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• 13 posts |
• 2 Vehicles
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Posted:6/6/2003 10:25 |
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When I tried to put it in 4L, I did have the truck in neutral. I tried to push the lever down, but it didn't do a thing, although I didn't need to push it down because the lever wouldn't even move in the neutral postion. Right now it only moves to the 4H position and nothing further. Any more help? thanks |
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BoulderBronco
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• Telluride, CO, USA |
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• Registered on 7/6/2002 |
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• 105 posts |
• 2 Vehicles
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Posted:6/6/2003 18:42 |
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I don't know what to tell ya. Maybe your case is in need of a rebuild. Getting into 4L can be tough are you sure you are pulling hard enough? Try finding someone in your area that knows those cases well and have them try it. They will know right away if there is a problem. Go to the dealership, I am sure they would help you out with that.
93 Bronco,White/Green
Engine:
351W, 130 amp alternator, AGR High Pressure power steering pump, Custom K&N intakes, BroncoAir YORK on-board-air kit,
Drivetrain:
E4OD tranny, BW 1356 T-Case, 6" Superlift w/radius arms, Superlift Superrunner Steering Kit, D44 TTB front w/ARB, Warn Premium hubs, 4.88 gears, Ford 8.8 rear, custom CV driveshaft front, custom length driveshaft rear, 37" MTR's, BroncoAir Extreme Duty Winch Bumper, Warn M12000 winch,
Other: Lund Moon Visor, Tinted windows, PIAA 90Series fog/driving lights, full size spare, Uniden CB, kick ass stereo, Alpine MP3 head unit, CD/MP3 Changer, Orion amps, Boston 12" subs, MBQuart components.
Future: D60 front w/ custom coils, Sterling 10.25" rear, ARB's and 4.88's, full Bassani Exhaust/Header system, hopefully a supercharger but ya know it's all about the $$$$$$$$$
I am also the owner of BroncoAir
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Pony-boy
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• Roy, WA, USA |
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• Registered on 3/9/2003 |
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• 147 posts |
• 7 Vehicles
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Posted:6/7/2003 02:26 |
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Yes you will need the conversion kit.
The inards on the two hubs a differant.
When you get the kit you will understand
what needs to be replaced. The 5 screws
just hold the cap on for the auto lockers
if you take it off there is just a pot metal
casing underneath, Thats you auto hub in a
nutshell. The Manuals screws hold the locking
lever in place to engage the gears.
On the inside you got some snap-rings to take
out that are a real bear. All the extra stuff
the autos have are replaced by 2 axle nuts and
a keyed lock washer. Buy the way you will also
need a 3quarter ton spanner socket($13 at NAPA)
to tighten the new axle nuts.
After you swap in the new stuff its a lot easier
to get them back off too. After about 200 miles
you need to retorque the lock nuts. Dont forget it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I did, and smoked my bearings. As for the Shifter
I have the lazzzzzzy button so I cant help ya there.
Thats not dented, It's customized |
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BigSwede
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• Sarna, XX, Sweden |
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• Registered on 8/17/2002 |
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• 36 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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Posted:6/7/2003 15:52 |
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I asume that you pulled the lever slightly to the left when in 4H?
As the marks on top of your shiftgrip...
Then continued backwards... To neutral and 4L...
If so and nothing will do it for you, then I advise you to look for another transfercase or someone that can fix it for you. 
Bronco XLT -89
Stock 302cui EFI, K&N
AOD
2" Body lift (not been aplied yet) in the garage...
1300+ watts stereo
JVC MP3 cd
3 amps:1x 2x100w, 1x 2x200w, 1x 2x400w
8 speakers: 2x 6,5" lanzar, 2x 7x10" DLS, 2x 6x9" DLS, 2x 10" Lanzar
New pics!! |
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topfisherman
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• Unknown, WI, USA |
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• Registered on 4/24/2003 |
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• 13 posts |
• 2 Vehicles
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 Posted:6/10/2003 21:23 |
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Thanks for all the help, I will check into my transfer case problem. |
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