1989 Ford Bronco
| Owner: |
publicjohncue |
| From: |
metropolis, U.S.A. (Other registries outside the U.S) |
| Year, Make, & Model: |
1989 Ford Bronco (Other Ford Broncos) |
| Avatar: |
 |
| Nickname: |
TBA |
| Mileage: |
177 |
| Engine: |
5.0 stock, k&N air intake, (cone shape) , short pipe headers with hi flow pipes. all suspension stock, and a lot of rust. |
| Drivetrain: |
Stock, rear axle has some throw off leakage. |
| Notes: |
This is my first truck I have owned ever so it feels weird driving it and I don't have much experience to make judgements on its handling or ride.
Got the BKO free from my sister who lives on the ocean so after siting for almost a year its got some sea rust.
Nothing is life is free and this is no exception.
It started getting 10 miles to the gallon and I did some work on it and now it gets 15 mpg hwy.
Repairs and Maintenance done: replaced brake pads front, fuel filter, air filter, 1 oil change, added seafoam to crank, tank and intake, 2nd oil change, trans fluid change, replaced tailgate window, got used tailgate motor, used tailgate window rubbers and cap seal.
Recently had the shock mount rust out and break. In this round of fixes I replaced upper shock mount(quad) , lower front shock bolt, two passengerside front shocks, all components of rear brakes including cylnders, drum, linkage, springs shoes, adjuster, brake line on axel , tail pipe end and all knew longer lug nuts. |
| Last Updated: |
1/4/2007 |
| Hits: |
15617 |
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564 hits | 11.4 KB | Posted: 1/4/07
i want to believe
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596 hits | 25.18 KB | Posted: 1/1/07
strip club sign broken. Massachusetts the gay state.
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533 hits | 45.8 KB | Posted: 9/22/06
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610 hits | 55.32 KB | Posted: 9/22/06
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568 hits | 62.24 KB | Posted: 9/22/06
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583 hits | 60.48 KB | Posted: 9/22/06
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578 hits | 45.95 KB | Posted: 9/22/06
CV59 FORRESTAL LEFT, CV60 SARRATOGA
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553 hits | 71 KB | Posted: 9/22/06
 r3.jpg
757 hits | 43.62 KB | Posted: 9/14/06
The wheel bearing nuts were tightened and backoff a 1/4 of the way. and the adj nut, washer and lock nut done. time to move on to the Warner hubs.
 a3.jpg
975 hits | 68.62 KB | Posted: 9/14/06
After replacing my U-joints and the loud hum was gone I started to hear the other noises and vibrations. Like my wheel bearings in the front drivers side. since I was going to replace my wheel bearings it seemed a good time to replace the grooved ...
 e.jpg
920 hits | 42.82 KB | Posted: 8/31/06
Once everything was back together I tried to start the truck after it sat for 5 days and it just clicked. you can see the wire nuts someone used to splice and it was the problem. I used crimps and single wires and wire brushed cleaned all soleno...
 f3.jpg
857 hits | 56.19 KB | Posted: 9/14/06
Using the bearing nut socket I removed the bearing lock nut.
 q3.jpg
807 hits | 49.5 KB | Posted: 9/14/06
with the rear bearing seal pressed in I had slippped the bearings on the spindle and hand pressed the outer bearing with a tube matching the ID of the inner race. the void inbetween the two bearings was filled with marine bearing grease as was sugg...
 p3.jpg
799 hits | 44.17 KB | Posted: 9/14/06
here is the new brake rotor and the rehabed hub with bearings and grease inside.
 b3.jpg
797 hits | 52.37 KB | Posted: 9/14/06
I proceeded to use the torx driver to remove the 5 screws of the OEM autohub. I found the inside of the hub cap to be caked with a hard brown/white powder caked on. the cap ring bearings where stiff and did not move freely.
 e3.jpg
797 hits | 52.59 KB | Posted: 9/14/06
The auto hub was not coming out easily so I had made a handle for it to manipulate it as I was squeezing the wire retainer together. It had taken a few tries but finally it came out.
 i3.jpg
790 hits | 65.78 KB | Posted: 9/14/06
here you can see the replacement pin Before being sized to fit the bearing washer.
 p3a.jpg
788 hits | 39.22 KB | Posted: 9/14/06
I had found the spindle to haver some crosed threads to I had to fix that and test the bearing nuts before assembly of rotor/hub to the spindle.
Maintenance & Modification Logs
| Date | Type | Mileage | Title / Description | $ Amount | | 09/04/06 | Repair | | stalling@idle
Full size bronco
(DISCAIMER: I AM NOT A PROFESSIONAL, JUST A BACK YARD MECHANIC.
Here is my problem , diagnosis and procedure.
Symptom: while at idle in drive , reverse or park the engine acts like it wants to quit by running real rough and then catching itself and running rough a couple of times till it get progressively bad and dies. On the highway it runs great and runs pretty well when rpm is above 1200 at low speeds.
Backround: fuel pump done a year ago, fuel and air filter done a month ago, fule pump relay done 2 months ago. Seafoamed tank, crank and intake a month ago (with great improvement in performance) gas vapor cansister return line is rusted out and canister nozzle is broken off. Most problem with the vehicle have been structural not engine.
Diagnosis: mmmmmmmm Well, I played with the throttle to see if the stop was set. No problem. . I went to FULLSIZEBRONCO.COM for help. I must have spent 2-3 hours reading prior posts. The result is I didn’t get an answer to my problem BUT I did get a procedure for checking out the problem from many posts not just one. Kind of a compilation of everyone’s different ideas. .
Procedure: check the EGR , IAC and TPS clean what you can. Check the vaccum and sensors/solenoids for correct resistance and voltage. I had taken the iac off separated it from the electronic part and cleaned the inside with cleaner and a dremel tool. I tested the iac leads and got……………………………..
Then I had gone to the EGR and pulled it off and saw a whole lot of black carbon in the valve chamber so I had cleaned that too (especially the valve mating surface). When I was cleaning the intakes egr port it was filthy and it seemed to me like I had reached a wall in the port and then the wall popped off sortof. I had hoped I didn’t break something.
So, this lead me to take the throttle body off and check inside. It was coated with black soot and I found some loose hardened pieces below the EGR port orifice. Since I had the TB off I decided to replace the TPS since it is a hard place to get at and only 30 bucks at AZ. I put everthing together and started it up. Still a rough idle to stalling. AAArgh.
So, I went to testing Mode. but before testing the vaccum I needed to make the vacuum circuit solid. So I went to the Junk yard and pulled a gas vapor canister , a return tube and almost all the vaccum tubes just for 10 bucks. I went to AZ and picked up a vaccum tester for 30 bucks as well as some new vac hoses and clamps. I swapped out the canister , fule return tube and the other tube that goes to the TB no problem. I did notice that the negative battery cable had a 11/2 inch corroded bare spot on the frame holddown bolt behind the pass side front wheel. So that is something else to address later.
Had got the engine running and started pulling elect and vaccum plugs one by one to see what effect it would have on the running engine. When I got to the EGR I pulled the vacuum hose and the engine started to idle normally. I tested the vaccum at the EGR and it was 5hg at idle. So I went back to FSB to search and came up with the EVR as a possible suspect . I had checked the EVR elect and Vac. The elect resistance was 48.2 ohms and the vac to the EVR was 17hg and the vac out of the EVR was 5 hg all the time. I measured the volts while the engine running but it wasn’t consistent. The red wire was all ways 12 volts with a engine ground but with the solenoid ground it fluctuated a lot. 3.29 – 1.92 V
I went back to the the junk yard and tested a 5.0 EVR @ 116.0 ohms , a 5.7 EVR @ 48 ohms, and a 5.7 with an electrical extentsion plugs that had 68 ohms. and two 5.0’s EVR @ 34.0 ohms so I had taken the 34 ohms from the 5.0 I had also take the extension plug for fun. It only cast 5 bucks for all of it.
I got home swapped out the EVR and reconcected the egr vac tube and voila it started up and ran normal …PROBLEM FIXED.
30.00 TPS
10.00 EVR (JY)
30.00 VACCUM TESTER
10.00 GAS RETURN & CANISTER (JY) | 80.00 | | Total | 80.00 |
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