01MCNuts.JPG
1128 hits | 62.77 KB | Posted: 12/7/06
To start, remove the 2 nuts holding the master cylinder to the booster. The R one is very difficult...

02Booster.JPG
1083 hits | 93.17 KB | Posted: 12/7/06
Move the wiring harness connector bracket off the studs, then pull the master cylinder forward to al...

03UnderDash.JPG
1055 hits | 88.43 KB | Posted: 12/7/06
It might be possible to make the swap without doing this, but I removed the knee bolster for easier ...

05UnderDash.JPG
878 hits | 78.29 KB | Posted: 12/7/06
Unplug the cruise switch at the top L. Pull the hairpin (yellow on this car) & slide the brake swit...

06Pedals.JPG
1780 hits | 52.31 KB | Posted: 12/7/06
The typical pedals (L) are fairly easy to interchange with the power-adjustable pedals (R). The har...

07Boosters.JPG
1236 hits | 56.15 KB | Posted: 12/7/06
My old POLice booster has suffered from a leaking master cylinder reservoir, but it still worked fin...

08FirewallOut.JPG
962 hits | 57.2 KB | Posted: 12/7/06
Just a (blurry) shot of the firewall with the booster removed.

09FirewallIn.JPG
973 hits | 91.64 KB | Posted: 12/7/06
Just a shot of the firewall with the pedals & plastic shim removed.

10Brake.JPG
1127 hits | 87.35 KB | Posted: 12/7/06
The hardest part of the swap was getting the booster, shim, & brake pedal back into place. It's nec...

11Up.JPG
1103 hits | 92.71 KB | Posted: 12/7/06
The accelerator pedal also took some effort since the studs on this firewall were SLIGHTLY too close...

12Down.JPG
1163 hits | 94.74 KB | Posted: 12/7/06
Here are the pedals at the full DOWN (forward) position. It's a lot more impressive to see them mov...