TSB 96-20-11 (supersedes TSBs 90-17-06 & 95-14-09A) IS 6661, P.1
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

As far as I know, there are NONE of these Ford kits left for sale anywhere, but I make copies. To buy a set of repair plates, email me through my profile here.



Or, using these drawings, any paint & body shop should be able to fabricate the parts needed to perform this repair. The first time I did this, I built my own from the scrap I cut from the inner B-pillar & bent/shaped it with common tin snips.

Body steel on the inside B-pillar is 24ga (~0.026") galvanized.

This is why the body cracks:



GO TO THE NEXT PIC...
_________________________________________________________
ROOF REPAIR SERVICE PROCEDURE - BRONCO
CPR 1995 FORD MOTOR COMPANY DEARBORN. MICHIGAN 48121
2-95


Kit Contents - F5TB-9850223-AA
Part Number Description Quantity
372820 Rivet (2 Extra Supplied) 14
F5TB-9827946-AA Reinforcement Body Side Inner Panel RH (Sail) 1
F5TB-9827947-AA Reinforcement - Body Side Inner Panel LH (Sail) 1
F5TB-98500A54-AA Reinforcement Roof Inner Panel RH 1
F5TB-98500A55-AA Reinforcement - Roof Inner Panel LH 1
F5TB-98514B12-AA Plate Roof Side Rail Reinforcement 2
10581 (Kent Ind.) Epoxy (2 Part) with Mixing Nozzle 1
I.S. 6661 Instruction Sheet 1

NOTE: This kit contains parts to repair both sides of vehicle. Always repair both sides, even if only one side is cracked, otherwise the repair may not be effective.

REMOVAL
1. Remove dome light fuse or equivalent to prevent battery from draining during the repair.
2 Move both seats forward and place protective cover over the interior of the vehicle including the carpet, front seats, rear seat, and B-pillar trim. It is not necessary to remove seats.
3. Remove header and side fiberglass roof molding. For removal refer to Service Manual, Section 45-16 (before 1991) or 01-05 (after 1990).
4. Remove fiberglass roof bolts and slide roof back about one foot. For removal refer to Service Manual, Section 46-51 (before 1991) or 01-08 (after 1990),
5. Remove A-pillar and windshield garnish moldings. For removal refer to Service Manual, Section 45-16 (before 1991) or 01-05 (after 1990).
6. Remove sunvisors and dome lamp. For removal refer to Service Manual, Section 45-41 and 32-61 (before 1991) or 01-05 and 17-02 (after 1990).
7. Remove roof console (if equipped). For removal refer to Service Manual, Section 13-07 (1994 and 1995).
8: Remove B-pillar trim panels. For removal refer to Service Manual, Section 45-11 (before 1991) or 01-05 (after 1990).
9. Remove the head liner (if equipped). For removal refer to Service Manual. Section 45-41 (before 1991) or 01-05 (after 1990).
10. Remove seat belt anchor bolts in B-pillars. For removal refer to Service Manual, Section 41-50 (before 1991) or 1-20 (after 1990).

CUTTING THE 3.5" X 5" ACCESS HOLE
11. Use the template which locates off the seat belt anchor in the B-pillar and the scribed line to orient the template. Then mark the rectangular hole using a grease pencil (refer to Figures 1A and 1B). Center punch hole location for 1/4" hole using template.
12. Use a 3/4" hole saw at the four corners of the rectangle and drill 1/4" hole (refer to Figure 2).
13. Use a nibbler saw or equivalent between the drilled holes to make the access hole.
NOTE: On the drivers side of the vehicle there is a wire for the high-mount stop lamp, which runs down the pillar along the inner roof. Cut away the rear portion of the access hole first and bend it out of the way. Then use a wire hook to grab the wire and pull it out of the way before cutting the rest of the access hole (refer to Figure 3).

SHEET 1 OF 9

Technical Service Bulletin 96-20-11 (supersedes TSBs 90-17-06 & 95-14-09A) Instruction Sheet 6661, P.2
________________________________________________________
If the wire is accidentally cut, then splice using butt splice or equivalent, and wrap with electrical tape. Check and replace fuse No. 8 if it has been blown.
14. Use a pair of pliers or vice-grips to bend the curled down portion of the left hand drip rail straight for better access to the sail panel underneath it (refer to Figure 4).
NOTE: The remainder of this repair must be performed with all four wheels in the same plane. If repair is performed with the body twisted, then the braces will be stressed when the vehicle is level.

OUTER SKIN CRACK REPAIR
15. Remove the weather strip on the aft end of the roof for the fiberglass cap. For removal refer to Service Manual. Section 46-51 (before 1991) or 01-08 (after 1990).
16. Sand localized area to bare metal.
17. Drill out the ends of the cracks with a 1/8" bit (refer to Figure 5).
18. MIG weld the crack using ER70S-6 wire.
19. Metal finish and prepare for prime coat.

PREPARING THE METAL, APPLYING THE METAL REINFORCEMENTS AND EPOXY
NOTE: To dispense epoxy, use Kent Ind. Dual Syringe Gun (Part No. 90375). If needed, order from Kent Ind., 1-800-654-6333, the cost in 1995 was $49.95.
20. Use a grinding stone. sandpaper, or wire brush on a drill to remove surface rust on the inside of the roof and sail panels and to clean the surface where the two-part epoxy will be applied (refer to Figure 6).
21. Use a grinding stone, sandpaper, or wire brush on a drill to score the periphery of the access hole for better adhesion of the two-part epoxy for the cover plate (refer to Figure 6).
22. Prepare the surfaces for the two-part epoxy by wiping them with a solvent using a clean cloth. Ensure that there is no residue left on the surfaces. All surfaces should be scored and cleaned (refer to Figure 7).
23. Score the surfaces of the metal reinforcements. Use a solvent and clean cloth to wipe the surfaces clean for better adhesion with the two-part epoxy (refer to Figure 8 ).
24. If the unit is equipped with a brace (refer to Figure 9), then pump the two-part epoxy between the brace, the outer sheet metal roof and the sail panel. Use a blunt chisel and hammer to bend the forward standing flange on the brace as close to the outboard side of the roof and sail panels as possible, without contacting the roof and sail panels (refer to Figure 9).
25. To prevent loss of reinforcement down the B-pillar, stuff it with cloth towels or block by other means. Practice inserting and removing the reinforcements to get used to handling the parts in the confined space. Determine if the reinforcement for the sail panel fits snug; if not, bend the reinforcement so that is does (refer to Figure 108 ).
26. Apply the two-part epoxy to the sail panel and the sail panel reinforcement, and place into position (refer to Figures 10A and 10B). The reinforcement should fit snug and should not require clamping. If the unit is not equipped with a brace from the factory, then ensure that the off-set is filled with two-part epoxy material.
27. Apply the two-part epoxy to the roof panel and the roof panel reinforcement, and place into position (refer to Figures 11A and 11B). The reinforcement should rest in place on top of the drip molding and should not require clamping.

TSB 96-20-11 (supersedes TSBs 90-17-06 & 95-14-09A) I.S. 6661, P.3


________________________________________________________
28. Apply 190 degree F direct heat for five minutes using a heat gun. Hold the heat gun 8-10 inches from the inside surface of roof and sail panels and apply heat through the 3.5" x 5" access hole.

COVERING THE ACCESS HOLE
29. Shape cover plate by hand, to conform to contour of inner roof (refer to Figure 12).
30. Secure upper rear attachment with standard part sheet metal screw (refer to Figure 13).
31. Align cover plate over access hole and drill. Secure attachment holes in sequence (refer to Figure 14). Install each screw right after drilling hole. Do not drill several holes at once, otherwise holes may not match perfectly.
32. Remove sheet metal screws (refer to Figure 15).
33. Score the periphery of the plate and wipe clean (refer to Figure 16).
34. Apply two-part epoxy around the perimeter of the cover plate (refer to Figure 17).
35. Secure the cover plate to the inner roof with 6 rivets (refer to Figure 18 ).

PRIME, PAINT AND HOLD UNIT
36. Sand and clean the roof for priming.
37. Mix and apply (2.0 mils) urethane primer surfacer per manufacturers label.
38. Mix and apply (2.0 mils) topcoat material per manufacturers label instructions.
39. Re-install the fiberglass roof and all trim panels.
NOTE: If the vehicle was not equipped with a head liner, install one for the customer.
40. Hold the vehicle for 24 hours to ensure sufficient curing time for the two-part epoxy material.

TSB 962011 (supersedes TSBs 901706 & 951409A) I.S. 6661, P.4

. . .
________________________________________________________

TSB 962011 (supersedes TSBs 901706 & 951409A) I.S. 6661, P.5


________________________________________________________

TSB 962011 (supersedes TSBs 901706 & 951409A) I.S. 6661, P.6

.
________________________________________________________

TSB 962011 (supersedes TSBs 901706 & 951409A) I.S. 6661, P.7

.
________________________________________________________

TSB 962011 (supersedes TSBs 901706 & 951409A) I.S. 6661, P.8


________________________________________________________

TSB 962011 (supersedes TSB 951409A) I.S. 6661, P.9

The hole at the bottom seems to be sized for the seat belt BOLT instead of the NUT, so cut slightly OUTSIDE the circle


________________________________________________________

Drip Rail Cracks

Later, I found these additional cracks:


This is why the body cracks:

Drip Rail Cracks

Later, I found these additional cracks:


This is why the body cracks:

This isn't nearly as bad as many that I've seen (including the body I'm moving out of), but since I'll never have a better opportunity, I decided to try to fix it before painting.



During disassembly of my '83 Bronco, I found these additional cracks:


This is why the body cracks:

Don't cut out the paper centers of the holes at the corners, or you won't be able to center-punch them. Tab the tape so it's easier to transfer to the other side of the body.

After marking the holes & cuts, I checked that the drill bit wouldn't hit the outer skin, and then punched in.

Join the holes to open the access. An air chisel is quieter, quicker, and safer - especially if the truck is still assembled. Whatever tool you use, don't cut the dome lamp wire (MISlabelled stop lamp wire in the instruction sheet) which runs up the Left B-pillar.

These pics fan across each opening. Note the distinct difference in the lip of the roof panel. The angled flap on the L may have to be bent down for the repair panel to sit flat.

A knotted cup brush on the 4.5-inch grinder strips the paint, and a 1/8-inch drill stops the cracks.

During disassembly of my '83 Bronco, I found these additional cracks:


This is why the body cracks:

I'll spare you hi-res pics of my gorilla welding, but I got the holes & cracks closed up with enough material to grind down RELATIVELY smooth.

Some of the primer & foam burned inside, but not as much as I expected.

Since the kits aren't available (I make copies now), I just cut up the scraps from the access holes in the B-pillars to make my own reinforcements. Their shape isn't critical since there's so much variation in the exact positions of the panels during factory assembly, and the amount of bending (which causes the cracks), and the amount of foam sealer, seam sealer, & weld. So some adjustment to the reinforcements is inevitable, anyway, and the rest will be filled in by the adhesive.

To buy a set of patches (with or without rivets), email me through my profile here.

After rough-bending some scrap metal into shape, test-fit it & adjust it a few times. Then scuff all the surfaces for the adhesive, and lay it on. Don't be shy - the excess will squirt out, but voids will cause future problems. I'm using JB-Kwik because it's cheaper & probably stronger than normal panel adhesive, and doesn't require an expensive applicator gun & tips. I'm mixing it with old popsicle sticks in the bottom of a Sprite can. But it doesn't allow much working time (only mix for ONE reinforcement at a time), so standard JBWeld or panel adhesive is probably better.

Fit & glue the reinforcements. Once the adhesive (JB-Kwik in this case) sets up, apply primer/sealer to the reinforced area.

I found a piece of scrap about the right thickness, cut it into plates, fit them to the body's curves, marked & predrilled them, then drilled the body the way TSB 951409A recommends.

.

After tracking down some 1/4-inch all-steel pop rivets (which are surprisingly RARE) and a rivettool, mix the panel adhesive (this is an equivalent to JB Weld), apply it to the edge of the plate, and rivet it into place. Allow the epoxy to cure THOROUGHLY before knocking any protruding rivet nails into the B-pillar, and collecting them from the access hole below the shoulder belt reel. I knocked all of them through to prevent future rattles.

Then prime & seal the area around the repair, paint if desired, and reinstall the interior. Both a headliner AND a B-pillar trim are required to cover the plate. I have a lot more work to do, so mine will be totally cured before I paint it.

This is why the body cracks:

Drip Rail Repair Parts for '80-96 Broncos (16pcs 1/4" steel pop rivets - not shown but available)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

To buy a set, e-mail me through my profile here or on many Bronco/F150 discussion forums, or order through eBay. You will also need JBWeld (or some other automotive-grade epoxy), a drill, hole saw, welder, grinder, LARGE pop rivet tool, center punch, awl, permanent marker, primer, paint, body filler, seam sealer, vise...

For installation instructions, read the rest of this photo album's captions.

'78-96 Bronco Drip Rail Repair TSB 95-14-09A
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

After removing the paint & seam sealer in the drip rail, the cracks are drilled & welded, then ground flat and smoothed with body filler (if necessary). Then the access hole is cut into the B-pillar, so the sheet metal can be bent down (as needed) and the reinforcement plates can be glued in. After priming/sealing, the access hole cover plates are glued & riveted on. Finally, the body is painted before re-installing the interior and camper shell.

For installation instructions, read the rest of this photo album's captions. To buy a set of repair plates, email me through my profile here.