This fuse got hot enough to burn the plastic, but didn't blow because the circuit didn't draw more than the fuse's capacity (~33A). It drew more than the fuse TERMINALS' capacity, so the terminal overheated. Note the 2 melted depressions in the upper fuse terminal. This is common for the blower fuse on '80-96 fullsize trucks, and for the headlight switch terminals.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
If the fuse block terminals are not corroded or softened, they can be removed from the block (see the other captions in this album), wire-brushed clean, crimped to grip the fuse tighter, and reinstalled. If the plastic block or the fuse terminals are damaged, they're very common in JYs, although tedious to remove intact.

Blower Motor Siemens PM249;
Motorcraft MM527; Visteon 100066
Blower Motor Connector
Motorcraft WPT041Blower Wheel
Motorcraft MM1071Blower Motor Resistor
Motorcraft YH1698; Wells JA1176; Standard RU-318; BWD RU1013; Dorman 973-011 (973-412 with pigtail)
Blower Resistor Connector Dorman 973-307; Standard Motor Products RU318; ACDelco 15-80675

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Once the terminals are repaired, apply electrical grease as described & linked in this caption:

A BETTER fix for this 30A fuse is to cut the wires away from the fuse block terminals, and connect them to a new inline MAXI fuse holder, which can handle the current even with some corrosion. Make sure to buy one built for MORE current than you plan to pass through it (don't buy a holder rated for 20A if you plan to put a 30A fuse in it).