The main structure of '92-96 (& '97 >8500GVWR) dashes are the black plastic A/C ducts, with a colored skin wrapped over them, and some components tucked in. The right lower attachment was originally a tab molded directly onto the duct, but after many broke loose, Ford redesigned them with a steel tab early in the '95 model year. This truck was built just BEFORE the revision, and its tab is broken.

TSB 94-15-13 Dash Right Attachment Tab
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
Publication Date: JULY 27, 1994

LIGHT TRUCK: 1992-94 BRONCO, F SUPER DUTY, F-150-350 SERIES

ISSUE: A "rattling" noise may come from the right hand side of the instrument panel. This occurs when the cowl attachment cracks causing the instrument panel to become loose.

ACTION: Install a metal bracket to the right side of the instrument panel to secure instrument panel to cowl. Refer to Instruction Sheet #6551.

NOTE: For steps 1-7 and 16-23, refer to the 1994 Bronco/F-series Service Manual, Section 01-12A, for assistance.

NOTE: It is important for your hands and all equipment to be free of grease or oil since they can degrade plastic parts of the instrument panel, making them weak and less resistant to fracture.

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable. Wash hands with soap & water.
2. Remove the right and left kick panels (pushpins).
3. Remove the right side windshield garnish molding (Ph#2).
4. Remove the bolt securing the broken right hand lower instrument panel attachment (8mm).
5. Remove the 2 screws connecting the bottom of the instrument panel to the 2 braces (8mm).
6. Remove the 4 instrument panel top attaching screws (7mm).
7. Remove the steering column opening cover (7mm).
8. Loosen (do not remove) the 3 bolts (15mm) securing the left hand instrument panel aluminum brace to the cowl. (Figure 1)
9. Carefully pull the right side of the instrument panel toward the rear of the vehicle. Insert a 2x4 wood block between the back of the instrument panel & the cowl. (Figure 2)
NOTE: Steps 10-17 require eye protection.
10. Grind off the remaining plastic tab on the duct. (Figure 3)
11. Align the new bracket on the duct with the large flange between the duct and the outer skin of the instrument panel. (Figure 4)
12. Insert a 3/8" x 1" bolt through the large hole of the bracket into the duct to locate the bracket into position. (Figure 5)
13. Using the bracket as a template, drill a 1/4" hole through the lower hole of the bracket into the duct. (Figure 6)
NOTE: Make sure the bracket is pressed firmly against the duct before drilling.
14. Attach the bracket at the bottom with a truss-head rivet. (Figure 7)
15. Drill 2 remaining holes, using the bracket as a template, into the right side of the duct and fasten with truss-head rivets. (Figure 8 )
16. Position the instrument panel in its installed location.
17. If needed for clearance, grind tab (Figure 8 ) so it fits to cowl side without forcing into position. The tab is made long to accomodate variations in the body sheet metal.
18. Install attaching bolt finger tight through the bracket into the A-pillar. Do not tighten.
19. Install 4 instrument panel top screws. Torque to 20 in-lb (2.2 N-m).
20. Torque 3 left hand attachment bolts to 22 ft-lb (30 N-m).
21. Install the bottom braces to the instrument panel. Torque bolts to 62 in-lb (7 N-m).
22. Torque right hand bolt in new bracket to 62 in-lb (7 N-m).
23. Install steering column opening cover. Torque screws to 20 in-lb (2.2 N-m).
24. Replace kick panels and right windshield garnish molding.
25. Connect the battery ground cable.

PART NUMBER PART NAME PRICE
F4TZ-1504366-A Instrument Panel Service Kit $30.08 (as of May 2011)
Service Kit (F4TZ-1504366-A) consists of:
One (1) bracket
Three (3) rivets
One (1) Instruction Sheet #6551

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
941513A Install Bracket 1.0 Hr.

See also:
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There are very few of these kits left, but I managed to find one for less than the full list price. If you can't read the invoice, click the image to supersize it.

Current River Ford 573-996-7163
F4TZ-1504366-A $25 plus sh plus tax in 2011

BroncoGraveyard

I now make & sell these kits either by direct email, or through eBay. See:



The NEXT several pics show its installation.

This is how the TSB says to prepare the dash, but it didn't give me enough working room. I didn't disconnect the battery - I was listening to the radio the whole time.



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The TSB says to sand the rough surface flat, but I didn't feel like wasting that much elbow grease, or cleaning up all that black dust. This is a little more dangerous, but it produces much larger wads of melted plastic, which are easier to clean up (if they fall).



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Pretty flat, and some of the slag stayed attached.

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A perfect fit.

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Even using a right-angle drill and a short (LeftHand) bit, I couldn't get in line. Also, the TSB says to drill 1/4", but the holes in the bracket are only 6mm, like the Ford-supplied rivets, and a 1/4" hole leaves them slightly loose.

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After loosening the 4th bolt on the column support, wedging the dash a little farther out, and swapping to a 3/16" bit, access was much easier. I wallowed the holes in the plastic slightly so the rivets would fit.

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These are low-force rivets, so it didn't take much effort to set them.

The wide head on the 3/8" bolt I used prevented me from setting the top rivet while the bolt was there, but the other 2 were already in.

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That's a winner!

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Done, other than reinstalling the trim pieces.

I now make & sell these kits. See:

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The PREVious several pics show its installation.

These tabs are very close to the original late-'95-97 parts, and Aluminum rivets are included with them. Email me through my profile here or on many discussion forums related to '80-96 Broncos or F-series (my username is usually Steve83), or through eBay. Include your shipping location (ZIP?), email, truck description, & list of parts you need.



The PREVious several pics show its installation.

This '95 F150 XLT dash was made before the revision, so I installed a steel tab that I made on it. I eyeballed the position of the hole in the front tab and got close enough for the rivet head to hide the slot. But it's holding tightly.



I now make & sell these kits. See: