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Since the truck will be stored, the instructions in this TSB should be followed:  .  Supply & install new Battery Tender Jr. $40 Supply & install new license LEDs $25 Supply & install new brake ballast resistor (to prepare for LED brake lights) $30 Supply & install new CHMSLED $30 Supply & install 4 new taillight LED bulbs $30 (resistor required if all 3 brake lights are LED)  . 
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 BatTend-StantLock.jpg | Hits: 84 | Size: 53.91 KB | Posted on: 8/5/21 | Link to this image
Since the truck will not be driven regularly, a Battery Tender Jr. would be good for the battery & alternator.
As gas prices go up, a locking cap can pay for itself quickly.
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All the fuses are good and the correct ratings, except C (horn/cruise/F2P), F (trailer Right), G (trailer Left), 5 (ADM), & 8 (RKE/PSOM/chime/PM). Both flashers are aftermarket. The trailer backup lamps & battery charge relays are not installed. IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.  Supply new custom laminated full-page color fuse map $5 ***********
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The speedometer (PSOM) has been calibrated to 8.64 for the 33" tires, so MPG calculations should be more accurate now. If MPG remains low, the likeliest causes would be alignment, low tire pressure, ignition timing (which has been corrected now), and the aftermarket open-element air filter. Cruise control works, but the safety recall on the SCDS has not been performed. There has been no rain to check for leaks or the wipers, but they appear to work. At some speeds and engine loads, there is a drumming vibration in the cabin, possibly due to tire balance or flat-spotting, improper driveshaft angle, broken engine mounts, collapsing body mounts, improperly-mounted nerf bars, or any combination of those & other latent problems. The engine performance was anemic, but after correcting the ignition timing, it is much-improved. The wind noise is minor, and there are no obvious interior rattles. The t/g window speed is OK. Since the AC evaporator & blower cleaned and motor oiled, the air temperature at the dash registers is noticeably lower (around 47 degrees parked at idle). The only DTCs were 212 (SPOUT open, probably due to ignition timing adjustment) & 542 (fuel pump open - no apparent cause), which are now cleared. (The Check Engine Light is not working.) The only 4WABS code is 16 (system PASS). The instrument cluster lens is OK, and the cluster is generally clean.  .  R&I cluster (risk of bezel damage) to replace CEL bulb $60 *********** - Add 14 new aftermarket white #194 LEDs $40 - Add used OE low fuel light module & new aftermarket red LED $110 - Add bypass wire & new OEM oil pressure sender & new aftermarket extension (to restore oil gauge functionality; also requires remove oil cooler & replace lower radiator hose & oil filter - SEE BELOW) $70 ***********  .  .  .  Since the odometer shows 121Kmi, all maintenance indicated for the 120Kmi service interval should be done soon.  .  Flush coolant, re-set 3 hose clamps that have leaked, supply & install 2 gal concentrate & 2 gal distilled water $100 *********** - Add remove oil cooler, install new lower radiator hose (requires FL-1A oil filter) (labor only) $40 *********** Lower radiator hose (w/o oil cooler) Dayco 71732 ~$28 plus tax *********** Change oil & filter (includes 6qt new 10W30~20W50 & new Ford FL1A or FL820S filter) $40 *********** - Add engine flush before oil change (includes 2 bottles of Berryman's B12) $10 *********** - Add supply & install new aftermarket oil drain valve $60 Lube trans & t-case linkages with flowable grease $5 *********** Clean, inspect, pack, & adjust front wheel bearings, inspect spindle bearing grease (includes Ford-spec grease; includes 2 new Ford/National inner wheel seals) $260 *********** OReilly ~$33 plus tax x2 National 710430- Add clean (with ATF as recommended) & inspect hub lock bodies $20 (includes diagnose if they remain inoperative) *********** Change t-case fluid (includes MerconV) $30 (might have been done Apr.99) ***********  Lube hinges & latches with flowable grease $20 *********** Lube door & window seals & runs with silicone or Teflon spray (as appropriate) $40 ***********
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The dash & (re-upholstered) pad appear perfect, other than the adhesive velcro for the carpet cover. Oddly, this truck has the old push-pull style temperature blend cable. The dash right lower mounting tab has been repaired improperly. Supply & install used OE pull-pull temperature blend cable $160 (not recommended until a problem appears)  .  Supply & install new iOttie Qi wireless-charging phone cradle on custom dash mount $160 (requires slitting dash carpet)  Supply & install (concealed) new in-dash 4-port USB power adapter $60 Supply & install (concealed) new in-dash 2-port USB power adapter $45 Supply & install (visible) new on-dash 2-port USB power adapter w/o voltmeter $50 Supply & install (visible) new 2-port USB power adapter w/voltmeter in power point location $50 - Add new on-off-keyed switch to any USB adapter $30 each  .  .  Supply & install (visible) rear-seat new 2-port USB power adapter w/o voltmeter $80 Supply & install 2 new aftermarket underdash courtesy LEDs $50  Supply & install new custom interior hidden security vault (large enough for several laptops, purses, guns, phones, & valuables; requires cutting hidden sheet metal) $800 
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The light blue is the airbag diagnostic module (ADM); the black one to its left (front) is the chime; to its right (rear) is the remote keyless entry (RKE) module. I haven't identified the aftermarket module screwed to the dash, but it's spliced into the clutch pedal position connector, which suggests it has something to do with cranking. Supply & install used OE keyless entry keypad to driver's door (requires cutting sheet metal) $240 (requires finding salvage parts from Explorer/Mountaineer)  .  . 
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To inspect the sloppy shifter, the knee bolster & column shrouds were removed & washed. The shifter & tube have not yet broken (common on early columns), but the bushings are worn enough to slide out-of-place. The boot is also degraded & tearing (as usual). The screws for the end lever are not loose. The MFS intermittently fails to flash the taillights, but will usually resume after cycling the hazard switch several times. IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.  .  .  Install shifter boot $ 10 (now while column is open; later $25) *********** - Used OE shifter boot (like-new condition) $60 *********** - New Ford shifter boot XL3Z-3D677-AAB $80 Supply & install 2 new aftermarket Dorman 905107 shift tube bushings $50 (now while column is open; later $70) *********** R&R MFS (labor only) $20 (while column is open now; $40 later) Tasca Ford ~$85 plus shipping plus tax F8TZ-13J359-ABFPG ~$85 plus shipping plus tax F8TZ-13J359-ABO'Reilly $100 plus tax SW5591Amazon ~$150 plus tax SW5591
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Both front doors' & the right t/g strike sleeve are missing. So are at least 4 of the rubber body plugs. Supply & install 4 used OE rubber plugs $30 *********** Supply & install new aftermarket door strike sleeve, and align strike (each door) $20 ***********  . 
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Both front doors are sagging (the driver's due to a worn upper hinge) which is probably why both of their strike sleeves have broken away. Quick align door hinge (each; may chip hinge paint) $20 *********** 
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For no apparent reason, the right vent window seal is twisted.  Adjust right vent window seal $10 ***********
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Right door mirror did not respond to the remote switch. After diagnosis, an unplugged connector was found pushed into the lower B-pillar inside the kick panel behind the door wiring harness.
Diagnose & repair inoperative right mirror $45 (done)
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The Opal cloth front bench seat from a '95 F150 has been installed, with its belt buckles, and 4 good headrest catches. The holes for the captain's chairs have been plugged.
Another possible upgrade is power-adjustable pedals, for shorter drivers.
Supply & install custom-modified used OE power adjustable brake & accelerator pedals $400
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The 2 small black wires going under the driver's threshold are not original, but their function isn't apparent.
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Transfer case shifter & boot have been butchered. Ford F2TZ-7277-A $37.20 plus tax *********** R&R boot (labor only) $30 ***********  .  . 
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The driver's vanity lamps are intermittent. As I removed & installed the lenses to check the bulbs, they'd go off & on. Both seem to be working now.
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Since it lacks the overhead console, this truck has the base (manual-dimming) rear view mirror. It does have the dual visor option, which usually includes an auto-dimming mirror. But this one could be replaced by an OE auto-dimming mirror, with or without compass &/or temperature display. A dash camera is another option, but most require USB power to be run from the dash up to the mounting position.  .  Supply & install used auto-dimming RV mirror $140 - Add compass $40 - Add temperature $100 - Add dual display $30 Install forward camera wiring from center dash to center top w/s $30
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While changing the front seat, the interior trim was out revealing that several of the pushpins are missing, and the others are stripped. Many of the interior screws have been replaced or swapped around to the wrong locations.
Supply & install 5 pushpins in kick panels $25 ***********
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The rear dome lamp switch is seized, and the bulb may be burned out. Replace bulb only (may not work if switch is burned) $5 Supply & install used OE switch $60 Supply & install new LED bulb $5  Supply & install 3 new LED bulbs in front dome lamp $15 
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Supply & install 4 tether points for child seats, as described in this link $360  .  Supply & install 3 used OE fold-down cargo anchors in tether locations $180 
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The w/s trim was painted with the rest of the truck, but it has chipped, and been touched up.  Supply & install used OE black w/s trim $240 - Add R&I wiper valance to supply & install 2 new black Ford spray nozzles F2TZ-17603-A $80 - - Add supply & install new fabricated screens in cowl to block debris from entering HVAC blower $60 
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Although the camper shell was repainted gloss black, some red body paint got on its rubber gaskets. And the original red shows in a few places.
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The factory fuel cap tether is broken. Supply & install used OE tether $10 (not recommended) Supply & install new shorter Ford tether $15 Supply & install new Stant locking fuel cap (not compatible with tether) $30  .  .
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The swingaway was also painted body color. There is no noticeable t/g rust outside or in. The bumper was raised badly to match the body lift - it is NOT strong enough for towing or bumping.
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The right t/g strike sleeve & both front doors' sleeves are missing. So are at least 4 rubber body plugs, and the right door conduit isn't fully installed.
Supply & install 4 OE rubber plugs $30
Seat right door conduit to cowl $6 ***********
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The tailgate has some of the typical problems: it's dirty (due to the outer weatherbelt failing at some point, but it has been replaced), the right strike sleeve is missing, the handle doesn't lie flat and must be pulled farther than normal to open the t/g, a defroster wire is broken, both glass runs are degraded, and the paper water shedder is missing (allowing some rain into the cargo area carpet). Its UNusual problems include a weak torsion bar (requiring more effort to open & close the t/g), the motor wiring being pinched by the torsion bar, and both end seals not being installed correctly. IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.  Wash inside tailgate $30 (low-pressure w/soap & surfactant, now while it's open; later $40) R&I remote control & latch handle to adjust & align operating rods $60 (now while it's open; later $70) Re-connect defroster wire $15 (now while it's open; later $25) Supply & install 2 new aftermarket glass runs $90 (now while it's open; later $100) Route motor wiring correctly $10 (now while it's open; later $20) - Add supply & install 2 new aftermarket t/g strike bolt sleeves (includes align t/g) $40 - - Add R&R t/g torsion bar (to reduce lifting effort; paint will be chipped on loop bolts) $170 Re-install 2 end seals $10 Supply & install new plastic water shedder $30 (now while it's open; later $40) Supply & install custom safety switch indicator light in place of 1 t/g carpet retainer $30 (now while it's open; later $40) Supply & install used OE courtesy lamp switch in t/g jamb; splice into RKE wiring so that opening the t/g triggers the interior lights like opening the front doors does $150 If the factory cargo net is not needed, it's worth $40 to me. ***********
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The camper shell's run for the t/g glass is degraded & cracking badly. Several body plugs are missing.  Supply & install new aftermarket glass run in camper shell $110
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The swingaway latch & strike were painted. The tape on the strike sleeve appears to be holding a crack together. Replacement strike sleeves are not available. Broncos with swingaway spare carrier (especially those driven off-road) commonly suffer from a split in the right side of the tailgate due to a design flaw which can be repaired before any damage becomes visible by adding a barely-visible rivet and a small hidden steel plate.  .  .  .  Adjust swingaway latch handle for easier release $10 *********** Rivet tailgate right side under camper shell $20 *********** Supply & install custom reinforcement plate inside t/g $60 (now, while t/g is apart; later $100) *********** (after riveting & closer inspection, this is NOT NEEDED)
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The aftermarket wheel arch mouldings, wheels, & body mouldings appear to have been installed properly. The tailpipe tip & bumpers have been raised due to the body lift. Aftermarket TPMS can be added next time the tires are replaced (or sooner). 
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The door mirror fronts & bases were painted with the body. This mirror's power connector was found unplugged inside the B-pillar. Supply & install new aftermarket heating elements for both door mirrors $120 - Add turn signal LEDs behind both mirror glass $120 (while adding heat; not visible to occupants) Supply & install puddle LEDs under both door mirrors $70 Supply & install cornering LEDs under both door mirrors $150  .  .  . . 
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Like the w/s trim, the antenna base isolator has been painted. .  . Supply & install used OE black antenna base isolator (may chip paint) $30 Supply & install used OE black antenna mast & black powdercoated OE base cover $60
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The base timing was off a few degrees, which was making the engine burn more gas & make less power. It's now set according to the VECI label, and the engine runs much better. IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it. Adjust base timing to specification $30 (done) 
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This K&N 57-2542 FIPK is supplying hot air to the engine, which is less-efficient than the factory filter box & tubes. A K&N filter also requires occasional service with special soap & oil. The hood cowl seal is degraded and not fully attached. The cheap AGM battery is OK, but does not hold a full charge (~695 of a specified 750CCA). The terminals are clean & tight, and the positive cable has been replaced recently. The jack handle is missing. The brake fluid is black, indicating that it has not been changed on-schedule. The SCDS recall has not been performed. The aftermarket plugs, wires, cap, & rotor appear to be recent, but the cap & rotor do not have the recommended dielectric grease and the wires are too long to be routed properly. The overflow/windshield tank's left mounting tab is broken, but a hook has been added to support it. The whole engine bay & undercarriage should be washed. IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  Clean, dry, & oil K&N element $80 (not recommended) Wash engine bay only (low-pressure spray with soap & surfactant) $30 *********** Supply & install new aftermarket hood noise insulation $100 Supply & install new Ford battery blanket and used or aftermarket extended clamp bolt $36 Supply & install used OE jack handle $15 ***********
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The cowl-to-hood seal (which prevents engine fumes from entering the HVAC fresh air intake) is degraded and most of its screws are missing (which are also necessary for the suction line supports). The evaporator insulation is OK for now, but beginning to degrade.  .  .  R&R hood seal, and attach suction line support (labor only) $15 *********** - Supply used OE hood seal $45 *********** - OR new aftermarket hood seal ~$50 Supply & install new evaporator cover insulation $60 (not recommended yet)
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Because the calipers were being compressed (driving the fluid back to the reservoir), it was necessary to remove some fluid to prevent it overflowing. But because it's so black (indicating that it's extremely old, and has probably never been changed), it was all removed and the reservoir washed out. IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.  .  The red cruise deactivator switch on the MC is dangerous, but any Ford dealership should replace it free under recall 05S28: R&I and clean brake fluid reservoir; clean master cylinder wells; clean & lube reservoir grommets; supply & install new DOT3 fluid $50 (done)
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Most of the other fluids look OK and are at the correct levels, but it's hard to know how old they are. R&R power steering fluid (includes 1qt new MerconV) $15 - Add supply & install new magnetic 3/8" filter and 1' of new 3/8" ATF hose $50 
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What began as a quick check of the radiator cap (which failed to hold even 5 psi for 10 minutes) escalated to tracking down several coolant leaks. Fortunately, all were at hose nipples, and all were fixed by simply tightening the clamps. If the hoses are ever disconnected, they'll probably require replacement. The best replacement is the Continental blue 5003 kit. IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.  Supply & install new Ford E5TZ-8100-A (MotorCraft RS62) radiator cap $20 *********** Diagnose & repair coolant leaks $40 (done)
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The degraded recirculate line has already been replaced with white silicone. With the other recent HVAC repairs, the AC seems to be working much better. 
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The outside HVAC box exhibits the typical sagging, but doesn't appear to be leaking. The recirculate vacuum line has been replaced with white silicone tubing. The original heater hoses appear to be in good condition.
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The cowl drains are not as badly clogged as most, but they do have some debris.  Clean cowl drains $30 ***********
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The vapor hose from the canister to the CANP solenoid is degrading (as usual) and has split enough to fall off the canister nipple.  .  .  Supply & install new aftermarket fuel-rated hose on vapor line to CANP $10 ***********
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The body lift necessitated lowering the fan shroud, bending the ATF cooler lines, and raising the bumper (poorly).
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
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To determine if this leak is from the oil pan or ATF cooler hose, the engine & undercarriage need to be washed thoroughly. IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.  .  .  Pressure-wash undercarriage with soap & surfactant on ramps $100
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The engine is surprisingly dry, but may be leaking around the oil pan gasket, or it could be blowing back from the ATF cooler hose. IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
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The oil isn't due to be changed, but it's overfull and the filter is an undersized cheapo. IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.  .  According to the OASIS message on this page, aftermarket oil filters are not worth the risk:  Adding an oil drain valve will make changing the oil later much easier. 
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The fan shroud has been lowered as part of the body lift. The oil filter is undersized - it should be a Ford FL-820S (unless the oil cooler is deleted). This rubber section of ATF cooler lines is known to leak, and is sometimes replaced with the wrong type of hose. To protect the condenser & air filter, screen can be added behind the grill & over the air-intake. IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it. . .  Supply & install new magnetic 5/16" filter and 1' of new 5/16" ATF hose $50 *********** Supply & install new black screen behind grill $40 *********** Supply & install new black screen on engine air intake $30 ***********
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The aftermarket plugs & wires look fairly new & clean. The cap & rotor are also new aftermarket, but they don't have the dielectric grease that Ford recommends. The ATF appears to be OK. IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it. .  R&I distributor cap & rotor to apply dielectric grease $30 ***********
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The transmission is surprisingly clean, and the body has no noticeable rust or mud.
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The engine mounts are broken, which is putting extra stress on the oil-soaked transmission mount. IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.  .  Supply & install custom poly engine & transmission mounts ($65ea x3, $120 labor) $315 ***********
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The front diff oil looks OK, and is very slightly over full. There is no indication it has ever been changed, and it doesn't need to be.
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There are no substantial leaks, but the transmission pan & mount are grimy, and the rear diff appears to be seeping some oil around the left tube joint. Ford recommends flushing the underbody at least twice per year, and although this truck has less rust, mud, & grime than most, it doesn't appear to have been washed underneath recently.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
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The MLPS appears original & OK. 
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The original muffler & driveshafts are OK, but the rearmost u-joint may be wearing abnormally. The paint marks on the rear diff cover could be a date that it was serviced. It has the original 3.55 gears with a functional limited slip diff. There is no apparent damage to the exhaust system, or leaks, or loose parts, or trapped material. 
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The driveshafts now have alignment marks, so that if they're ever removed, they can be re-installed in the same orientations.  .
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The rear differential plug put up a fight because the last person to check it put it back in with an impact driver, stripping the square drive socket. It took a spiral extractor to get it out. The filings on it aren't good, but they're typical for an axle of this age. It's slightly over full and doesn't smell like it has the correct additive. IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.  .  Extract rear differential fill plug; supply & install used OE plug $40 (done)
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The front bumper has been raised for the body lift by torch-cutting the frame horn. The flat plate for the upper bolt is pointless - it adds no strength; only weight.
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The steering seems twitchy, and has poor return-to-center. It's impossible to know if that's because of the 2 steering dampers, or if they were added to reduce even-worse steering characteristics, without disconnecting them (at least temporarily). The sheer quantity of wheel weights is impressive. They may also be part of the drumming vibration in the cabin. IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.  .  .  .  .  Temporarily disconnect steering dampers (to evaluate handling; includes re-connect if handling is worse) $10 *********** - Remove steering dampers (if handling is better w/o) $20 (return to owner) R&I tie rods; supply & install 4 new Energy black polyurethane boots $100 *********** R&R camber cams; supply & install 2 new adjustable cams $140 (cams will be set at current cam sizes if no alignment) *********** - Add sublet front-end alignment at Oakland Tire & Service $150 *********** - Add sublet balance & road-force 4 tires at Oakland Tire & Service $?? ***********
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Due to the body lift, the transfer case shift lever has been cut, extended, & welded. IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.  
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The 3" body lift necessitated changing to longer body mount bolts, adding lift lips, raising the bumpers & tailpipe, lengthening the filler neck & steering shaft, extending the t-case shifter, lowering the fan shroud, and extending the nerf bars hangers. But even without the lift, the nerf bars join frame to body, which transmits noise & vibration from the chassis into the cabin. The body mounts are sagging, which leaves the body mount bolts loose, and the body in danger of sliding around during normal driving, or of breaking away from the chassis in a collision or rollover. Right now, the body is offset on the frame ~1/4" to the right, which is negligible.  .  . 
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The tailpipe was raised for the body lift.
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The body mounts are collapsing, as usual with factory vulcanized rubber mounts at this age. But it's especially bad with a body lift because it leaves the lift pucks loose on the bolts, which can result in the body shifting even during normal driving & braking; but also in the body ripping loose in a collision or rollover. It should NOT be possible to spin the lower mounts - certainly not by hand. Black Energy polyurethane body mounts (~$130) don't collapse or age (except by fire), so they're far superior. .  .  R&R body mounts (labor only; includes center body on frame) $240
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The e-brake cables work freely, and the brake pedal appears to function normally. It's not critical, but Ford recommends rerouting the Left e-brake cable in this TSB:  .  R&I brake cable to re-route $20
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The fuel tank & fuel lines look OK, with no significant rust anywhere on the truck. If access is ever needed inside the fuel tank, it's much safer, quicker, & cheaper to cut a hole in the floor under the (glued-down) carpet, instead of lowering the tank from the truck. IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it. Supply & install custom fuel tank access hole cover plate (includes peel cargo area carpet up) $200 
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Due to the body lift, lift lips have been screwed on, but this one was not cut to fit around the filler neck.
R&I lift lip to fit filler neck $20
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Despite the invoice saying that the previous owner paid for the work, these leaf spring bushings do not look like they've ever been replaced. Nor do they look like they need to be.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
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The factory 7 degree shim is missing on both sides, causing the rearmost u-joint to operate at nearly 8 degrees, instead of the recommended 0.5~3 degrees. This is contributing to the drumming & vibration in the cabin, and may eventually cause the u-joint to fail violently at high speed. IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it. F3TZ-5729-A JBG $29ea x2 sh tax; recommend new U-bolt set (4 bolts 8 nuts) JBG $28 sh tax ***********  .  R&R rear axle U-bolts to install stock-style wedges (labor only) $120 ***********
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Having the wrong rear axle shim is putting the u-joint at a dangerous angle (nearly 8°), which is contributing to the noise & vibration in the cab. FPG $55 x2 plus sh plus tax new Ford shim F3TZ-5729-AJBG $29 x2 plus sh plus tax new aftermarket shimIF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it. . . .  . Ford specifies that the leaf spring u-bolts not be re-used.  JBG $28 plus sh plus tax new aftermarket U-bolt set (4 bolts 8 nuts)
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The line of fire adapter is hung on the wiring where it may be damaged by mud, gravel, or debris thrown by the tire. The hitch receiver appears to be solidly installed and in good condition. One leaf spring tip liner is missing, but it's not critical. Re-locate module inside frame rail $15 Apply graphite paint to leaf spring tips for smoother ride $60 Supply & install 2 new LED backup floodlights in factory holes under rear bumper $100 Supply & install pair of used OE horns at left rear (identical to standard front horns) $60  . 
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Due to the body lift, the rear bumper was raised. But it is not attached solidly enough to be used for towing or bumping. The hitch receiver is in good condition and can be used for towing or recovery.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
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Other than sun-fading, the trailer connector looks good. The trailer backup lamps & battery charge relays are not installed.
Clean & paint trailer connector gloss black $10
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The LHR autoadjuster wasn't turning freely, and there was a minor error in the assembly order, so all the brakes were blown clean, disassembled, inspected, lubed, and reassembled. The yellow spreader bar springs were straightened, and the wheel mounting surfaces were all cleaned. The drums are within 1mm of their discard size, so they'll need to be replaced the next time the shoes are. Lug nuts were tightened with a 100 lb-ft torque stick. IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.  .  .  .  .  R&I rear brake shoes, clean & lube $80 (done)
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The front brakes were cleaned, inspected, & lubed similarly. Like the drums, the rotors are close (25.5mm) to their discard thickness (24.45mm). IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.  .  .  R&I front brake pads, clean & lube $40 (done)
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Since the front wheels apparently didn't come with 4WD center sleeves, the hub snouts have now been painted.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
Clean & paint front hub snouts $20 (done)
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The hub locks don't engage; probably due to never having been serviced.  . IF WHEEL BEARINGS DECLINED R&I hub locks (clean & inspect only) $60 - Add R&I wheel bearings (clean, inspect, repack; includes 2 new Ford/National inner wheel seals) $220 OReilly ~$33 plus tax x2 National 710430
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The 17-year-old spare tire is smaller than the road tires, and doesn't appear to hold air. It's now at its maximum pressure (55psi). So are the road tires, but they're only rated for 35psi. IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it. DOT, Ford, and most tire manufacturers say that a tire is risky after 6 years (regardless how many miles it has been driven, or its tread depth, or even if it was never mounted), and dangerous after 8.  The 2-year-old road tires have not been driven enough since their last rotation to assess their wear patterns, but they are at their maximum pressure (35psi) and have plenty of tread depth. 
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A 5/16" magnetic inline filter was added to the ATF cooler loop, as recommended by Ford. IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it. Ford recommends replacing the filter every 30Kmi.
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The degraded fuel vapor lines were replaced with new 1/4" fuel hose. IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it. 
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While the coolant was out, the nipples that had leaked were cleaned. Some required manual sanding to remove the corrosion. Then the hoses were re-attached with Indian Head Shellac. The lower hoses and oil cooler were replaced with a Dayco 71732. IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
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The cowl drains were emptied. The right one contained the filler plug for the cowl. IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.  . 
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The cowl-to-hood seal was replaced with a good used one. And the liquid line hangers were re-attached. IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it. 
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The distributor cap terminals were scraped, and the cap & rotor were coated with dielectric grease as recommended by Ford. IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it. 
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While the engine was cold, 2 cans of Berryman's B-12 pour-in were added to the crankcase. Then the engine was run up to full temperature, and the oil drained. The new oil was selected based on the upcoming weather, and this Ford TSB: IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
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The factory oil cooler has been removed, and a connector, Standard PS60 pressure sender, and FL1A filter installed. Additionally, a jumper wire will be soldered to the back of the instrument cluster so the oil gauge actually works, reversing what Ford did in 1987. IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.  . 
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The air intake & condenser are now screened. IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
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The tailgate strike sleeves were replace, and the swingaway handle's slack taken up. IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
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The front wheel bearings were cleaned & packed with disk brake grease, and the seals were replaced. The previously-empty space inside the hubs between the bearings has been filled with grease. IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it. . 
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Although the 3-screw automatic hub locks were washed in ATF as recommended by Ford & Warn, they didn't function. So they were soaked in solvent for a few days, disassembled, cleaned, reassembled, and they still don't function. IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
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Since they're due on the 120K service, all the latches, hinges, & linkages were lubed with flowable grease; and all the door & window seals were lubed with silicone spray. Some also got PTFE spray.
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New transfer case boot .
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Fitting the new t-case boot took a lot more time than expected. After removing the old one, it was apparent why it had been screwed back down - the lever wasn't welded right, so it was rubbing the plastic bezel, which had been cut away for more clearance. And the weld wasn't strong enough to survive bending the handle away, so it had to be re-welded correctly. But the bezel isn't designed to sit on top of the carpet & thick padding, so that had to be carefully trimmed away slowly, to avoid cutting too much. But eventually, it settled into place.
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The shifter bushings are new, and glued into place. The boot has also been replaced.
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The last step of the oil sender reversion is to jumper the oil gauge resistor on the back of the cluster. The wire is long enough that the cluster does not need to be removed again to cut the wire, if someone wants to go back to the '87-95 configuration of the switch & resistor. . 
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Polyurethane engine & transmission mounts will never break, soften, harden, or collapse; like all factory-style mounts do. IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
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The rear axle shims have been switched back to stock, so the rear U-joint is not as stressed. The U-bolts were torqued to 100 lb-ft 3x.
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The engine bay has been washed with Dawn & PurplePower.
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The 4 road tires were match-balanced to reduce their weights & road force.  .
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Inspection
