The speaker hole had already been hacked before he bought the truck, so as much as I hated to do it, I left it there.

I would have preferred moving the new latch handle up & back, and putting the speaker much higher on the door, above the window motor. That would have allowed for a pocket at the bottom of the door, but I might still be able to fit one slightly higher at the rear.

The three nuts at the top R are for the inside latch mechanism (Maverick, Pinto, or Mustang II) whose pushrod is visible running diagnoally down to the L. The power window regulators came from the donor '88 F150 XLT. One (probably the R) was modified to sit differently so its motor would clear an internal brace in the door.

For the other door, see:

I built the panel from 2 layers of 1/4" hardboard & glued them together. The notch at the bottom is necessary on the driver's side, so I mimicked it on the passenger's. After all the holes were drilled, I applied 2 coats of spar polyurethane varnish (waterproofing) just before the upholstery.

The steel top lip wraps up to the glass, like modern door panels. When the panel is adjusted correctly, the vent window will just clear the padded upholstery.

I'm pretty happy with my first attempt at upholstery, even with the slight wrinkles at the bottom. There's a nick at the top, though, so I'll probably redo the whole thing.

The '88 trim pieces look pretty good, but I butchered the switch opening, so I'm definitely redoing it.

I think it looks D@# good already, so the final version should be great. I still have to find a pull handle, but since the chairs have 2 arms each, it doesn't need an armrest.

I managed to lift the speaker so it's not ON the floor now, but it's still low. I'd really rather have mounted it forward of the latch handle.

Why didn't they do it this way to begin with?

This is the finished panel, other than the grab handle. The latch & screw holes are melted so they won't expand over the years. I'll cut the hole for the switches tomorrow when I install it.

All this one needs is a grab handle, and it's done.



...and maybe some puddle lights, a pocket or 2, a cupholder...

I found a grab handle that we both liked, and it's on. I think it came from an Expedition. The inside latch handle & rod came from a Maverick, Pinto, or Mustang II. The fabric, chrome, & switches came from the '88 F150. All 4 speakers are Alpine.

I've managed to do something that NO car manufacturer seems to be able to accomplish: attaching a door panel so that it can be removed with ONE tool: a #2 phillips screwdriver!

I found a grab handle that we both liked, and it's on.

This door's speaker hole was butchered even worse, and it's not in the same position, so I have to clean it up a little & widen it upward.

The door check strap loops are reversed so they don't intrude into the door panel as much.

For the other door, see:

This one went much faster, naturally.

It doesn't fit quite as well as I had hoped, but it still looks better than stock or the diamond-plate that used to be there. I'm considering wiring the cargo light to an automatic switch on the liftgate, but I haven't decided how or where to mount the switch.

The speaker BARELY fits. In fact, I'm not happy with how little material there is between it & the wheelwell, but I didn't have any options to keep the nameplate on the grille horizontal like the fronts. The cupholder came from a '92-96 F-series Xcab or Bronco, and the cigar lighter will be switchable between OFF/ON/IGNITION from the center console (when that gets built). The shoulder belts are from an '86 Bronco and are attached with their original bolts to common hex nuts welded into the tube.

A Bronco cargo light, right where it should be.




OK It's an '80-91 light, and it's "mocha" which is the '92-96 color - SUE me!
Together with these domes, it really lights up the truck:

This one's upholstery is tighter, but the panel doesn't fit as well as the L side. Oh, well - you can't win 'em all. The carpet will hide it...

Since the Rhino-Liner is now covered with Dynamat Xtreme, the Dynamat will be covered the way full-size Bronco camper hardware is. I'm using cheap galvanized steel valley gutter from a hardware store, with some careful cutting & a little custom bending. I don't think I'll have time to upholster it before the SuperNats in Knoxville, so I'm spraying it temporarily with the same Krylon Fusion Ultra-Flat camo khaki that I used on the headliner, visors, wiper cover, etc.

That's an XJ-S with an LT-1 in place of the factory V12 parked out front. It's now enjoying its new home in Canadia.

Since the Rhino-Liner is now covered with Dynamat Xtreme, the Dynamat will be covered the way full-size Bronco camper hardware is. I'm using cheap galvanized steel valley gutter from a hardware store, with some careful cutting & a little custom bending. I don't think I'll have time to upholster it before the SuperNats in Knoxville, so I'm spraying it temporarily with the same Krylon Fusion Ultra-Flat camo khaki that I used on the headliner, visors, wiper cover, etc.

The driver's side camper window trim is pretty much done - I might have to remake the bottom piece. But overall, it looks better than I expected for the first attempt. And since it's painted the same Krylon Fusion UltraFlat Camo Tan as the headliner, cargo lamp, wiper cover, & dash pad cover, it blends perfectly with the naugahyde bedwalls & door panels. Later, the window trim will be covered in that naugahyde.

. . . .

The driver's side window trim is pretty much done - I might have to remake the bottom piece. But overall, it looks better than I expected for the first attempt.

IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

I dimpled the lower trim behind the cage bar when I installed it, but I'll push it back out when I have it off to upholster them later.

IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

I finally finished the camper trim by wrapping it in the same upholstery that covers the doors & bedwalls. There is no padding, though - it's glued directly to the metal panels.

IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

In preparation for adding a trim panel over the liftgate, I reattached this seal. Originally, it was siliconed on the outside, but it gets pinched in the hinge (pushing the liftgate down against the tailgate) and its inside flange didn't lie flat against the body. So I'm moving the top section down against the liftgate so the flange goes up, and will be covered by the new trim piece. I'm using RightStuff and tool storage magnet bars to hold the seal until the RS sets up.

IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

I think this is the last piece of interior trim (other than the floor console), so now ~99.9% of the expensive color-matched metal flake Rhino is hidden.

I think this is the last piece of interior trim (other than the floor console), so now ~99.9% of the expensive color-matched metal flake Rhino is hidden.

The greasy fingerprints are free!

I think this is the last piece of interior trim (other than the floor console), so now ~99.9% of the expensive color-matched metal flake Rhino is hidden.