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fumotofl1a.jpg Oil Drain Valve (the original Fumoto like this, or the knock-off EZ Valve) makes changing the oil tool-less. As common as it is to find the instructions printed on the box or the filter label, most people don't notice or follow them. Step 1 indicates removing the filter AND its O-ring (which often adheres to the block, and is overlooked until the new filter's O-ring blows out, dumping most of the new oil). Step 2 indicates both pre-filling the filter (so the engine doesn't run dry while the pump fills it after startup, AND to make the oil level read correctly before startup); and also oiling the new O-ring so it's less-like to adhere to the block, and to allow proper tightening as steps #3&4 indicate. Step #5 indicates filling (6qt total for 4.9L, 5.0L, & 5.8L). Step #6 indicates both watching for leaks, and warming up the engine to full operating temperature. It's best to remove the dipstick (or at least slide it up in its tube a few inches) during this step so there will be no oil in the tube later. For step #7, the engine must be OFF long enough for the oil to drain back to the pan, but not so long that it cools substantially. 
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See also:
[url=https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/1166912][img]https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/1166912/thumbnail/6engflushed.jpg[/img][/url] . [url=https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/1168497][img]https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/1168497/thumbnail/fueltreatments.jpg[/img][/url] . [url=https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/1129211][img]https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/1129211/thumbnail/oilfilterfl1a.jpg[/img][/url] . [url=https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/1170249][img]https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/1170249/thumbnail/mmo.jpg[/img][/url]
fumotofl1a.jpg | Hits: 207 | Posted on: 2/16/24 | View original size (1.47 MB)

Oil Drain Valve (the original Fumoto like this, or the knock-off EZ Valve) makes changing the oil tool-less. As common as it is to find the instructions printed on the box or the filter label, most people don't notice or follow them. Step 1 indicates removing the filter AND its O-ring (which often adheres to the block, and is overlooked until the new filter's O-ring blows out, dumping most of the new oil). Step 2 indicates both pre-filling the filter (so the engine doesn't run dry while the pump fills it after startup, AND to make the oil level read correctly before startup); and also oiling the new O-ring so it's less-like to adhere to the block, and to allow proper tightening as steps #3&4 indicate. Step #5 indicates filling (6qt total for 4.9L, 5.0L, & 5.8L). Step #6 indicates both watching for leaks, and warming up the engine to full operating temperature. It's best to remove the dipstick (or at least slide it up in its tube a few inches) during this step so there will be no oil in the tube later. For step #7, the engine must be OFF long enough for the oil to drain back to the pan, but not so long that it cools substantially.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

See also:
. . .