After driving it around for a week or so, an exhaust leak became apparent on the R side. I quickly eliminated the Y-pipe, 2ndry air crossover pipe, & EGR tube as possible sources, leaving only the exhaust manifold. An inspection mirror & flashlight showed the telltale soot streaks behind the #3 exhaust port. Another way to find a leak is to stuff the tailpipe with rags and listen for hissing at idle, but only FORWARD of the muffler (which is designed with small leaks).
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To make access easier, I pulled the wheelwell. There are several 5.5mm (7/32") screws along the lip, an 8mm (5/16") bolt at the top going into the inner fender, four 11mm (7/16") nuts for the coffee can & 2ndry air filter, a 10mm inboard rear, two 8mms under the core support (fortunately not yet destroyed by battery acid), and a 10mm behind the charcoal canister, which itself is retained by an 8mm. 3 wiring harness retainers pop out, and the whole wheelwell comes out easily.
Before ripping out any emissions systems, read
this article.