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Starter Relay (E9TZ-11450-B) with parallel posts
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

This design is superior to the older side-post style primarily because the quality of its contact doesn't depend on the rotation of the main studs, which are splined to prevent rotation anyway. Its contacts self-clean (to a degree, of course), it uses less copper, it takes up less space, and it's easier to bypass if it does fail.

To test it, bypass it by bridging the 2 large posts. If the starter doesn't work, diagnose the starter. If the starter works as it should, but doesn't work using the key, bridge from the rear post (the one with the LARGER cable from the battery positive) to the small (S) post. If the starter works, the relay is good and the fault is between the ignition switch & the relay (clutch switch or neutral switch). If not, the fault is at the relay. If the relay didn't click, either it's not grounded, or its coil is burned out. If it did click but the starter didn't engage, the relay's contacts are corroded as the top R pic shows.

To check for this withOUT disassembly, test cranking voltage across the 2 large terminals. It should be under 1.5VDC. Anything higher indicates high resistance inside the relay.

This relay is corroded because it came from a truck that was abandoned in the woods for 6 years. After this cleaning, it has worked reliably for 3 years.

See also:
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