1/2-ton Drum Brake Parts
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
Chock the front tires, support the axle, remove the wheel and drum.
Disassembly by hand (except step 10):
1) pull the autoadjuster lever (2A176) away from the screw (2041) and turn the wheel to fully retract the screw into the nut (2047).
2) Pull the front shoe (2200) away from the autoadjuster assembly (2048-2047) and remove the assembly.
3) Push the shoes (2200) together and remove the lever (2A176) from the rear shoe (2200).
4) Disconnect the cable (2A178 ) and spring (2296/2049) from the lever (2A176), and remove the spring (2296/2049) from the front shoe (2200). Remove the cable from the anchor pin (part of 2211).
5) Reach behind the FRONT of the plate (2211) and hold the pin (2069) while compressing & rotating the retainer (part of 2068 ) on the FORWARD shoe (less friction material). Remove the spring & retainers (2068 ), & pin (2069).
6) Pull the forward shoe (2200) away from the plate (2A176) and swing it up & away from the plate to relax & remove the return spring (2296/2035).
7) Remove the link bar assembly (2A642/2A601/2A787).
8 ) Remove the rear shoe retainer as in step 5, and its return spring as in step 6. Remove the cable guide (2A179). Remove the anchor guide plate (2028 ).
9) Compress its spring (not shown) and slide the e-brake cable ferrule (not shown) out of the lever (2A637).
10) Use spreading snap ring pliers to open the C-clip (2N790/2106). Alternatively, hammer a wide flat-blade screwdriver against the tips to drive the clip back off the pin, then use a strong pick to pull it so it opens. Remove the e-brake lever (2A637) from the rear shoe (2200, more friction material) & spring washer (2N674).
11) Remove both pushrods (2042) and dust caps (2246). (It may be necessary to hold the piston in the cylinder to get the cap past the limiter on the backing plate.) Fluid behind the dust caps indicates a fault in the autoadjuster mechanism or a leak in the wheel cylinder (2261).
Clean ALL points of contact with a wire brush & brake cleaner, including inside the autoadjuster, and the piston faces. Lubricate ALL points of metal-to-metal contact (indicated in Pink) with either silicone grease or brake grease, including the edges of the shoes (2200) & their slide pads on the backing plate (2211).
Insert the e-brake lever (2A637) into a shoe (2200) with LONGER friction material, then install the C-clip (2N790/2106) over the spring washer (2N674) and crimp tightly in the pin's groove. While holding the piston in the cylinder, install the dust cap (2x).
Assembly is the reverse of removal steps 9-1. The e-brake levers go on the REAR shoes (more friction material). The last part to install should be the cable, by hooking it to the pawl, hanging the ring on the peg, and slipping it over the guide while lifting the pawl above the star wheel.
'87-96 Drum YL3Z-1V126-D
MotorCraft BRD49/
BRD34Nov '84-96 Shoes (4pcs)
MotorCraft BR96BLeft Cylinder
MotorCraft BRWC6 Raybestos WC370192 Left Adjuster Kit
MotorCraft BRAK2544A (plug, cable, guide, lever, 4pcs autoadjuster)
Right Cylinder
MotorCraft BRWC7 Raybestos WC370193Right Adjuster Kit
MotorCraft BRAK2545ASpring Kit
MotorCraft BRSK7225A (2 plugs, 2 U-rings, 2 spring washers, 4 rods, 4 silver springs, 4 caps, 2 red springs, 2 blue springs, 2 brown springs)
Park Brake Cables: Front
Motorcraft BRCA34, Left
Motorcraft BRCA263, Right
Motorcraft BRCA264Shoe Retainer (D7TZ-2028-B)
Pushrod (C6TZ-2042-H)
New backing plates (Right E5TZ-2211-B, Left ...2-B), link bars (Strut: Right D4VY-2A642-A, Left -B), link springs(D1AZ-2A601-A), link spring washers (2A787), & e-brake levers (Right D7AZ-2A637-A, Left ...8-A) are not available in 2017.
This page explains how to swap to rear disc brakes on these trucks using almost all factory parts, but it is NOT better than well-maintained drums, and costs a LOT more both to do the swap, and in the future:
