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Instruction Sheet for Ford (StratTech) 8-cut ignition lock cylinder assembly
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
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Door Lock Cylinder Replacement
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
In addition to removing all wear & damage, replacing the door lock cylinders with new has the added benefit (on pre-'96 trucks) of updating the keys to the later 8-cut style, which has more aftermarket support (like StratTec's Bolt line of accessories). I also allows matching the new keys to a new 8-cut ignition lock cylinder.
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Key-In Contact Repair  If the key buzzer/chime is always on (even when the key is out & the cylinder bezel is properly aligned) or if the horn blows intermittently ('94-95 only), then the contact has probably come loose from the steering column, and is grounding against it (1). With the cylinder assembly & column shroud removed, the contact belongs fully in the channel under the cylinder with its upper tab hooked over the column's debossment (2). The tab commonly breaks, but even if it's intact, it's a weak retention method which can be improved easily by the addition of a zip-tie (3). Ensure the contact touches the switch on the cylinder when the cylinder is inserted (4). Finally, ensure the zip-tie does not interfere with the column shroud (5). The lock cylinder catch pin (6) is accessible through a small hole (noticeably smaller than the screw holes) in the bottom of the column shroud, and can be depressed only when the key is in RUN. Then the cylinder can be extracted with the key.  If the key or lock cylinder won't turn the vehicle OFF, read this:  See also:  GO TO THE NEXT several pics & captions for lock cylinder repair...
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This original '93 collar (using the 10-cut key) is very loose, causing several annoying problems. With the key in RUN, push a probe up through the small hole in the lower shroud (behind the word "continuous"), depress the catch pin, and withdraw the cylinder assembly from the column.  I had a spare cylinder to put in so I could turn the ignition off while I was working. New AFTERMARKET 8-cut lock cylinder set ~$70~100 (3): with black keys (2), black ignition cylinder, stainless door cylinders (2); door cylinders alone (w/keys) are Standard DL140. Ford (1L3Z-11582-A) improved 8-cut lock cylinder kit MotorCraft SW-6383 ~$60 (not the A/C clutch pressure switch with the same number)  .  StratTec is the OEM for the Ford kit, and its number is 707624 for about half the price. The blank key is 597638 for ~$2.50~6 each. If the key or lock cylinder won't turn the vehicle OFF, read this: See also: CONTINUE READING THE NEXT SEVERAL PAGES...
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If the key-in switch is damaged, it can be discarded. This one is OK, so I removed it carefully. New lock cylinder set ~$70~100 (3): with black keys (2), black ignition cylinder, stainless door cylinders (2) Ford (1L3Z-11582-A) improved lock cylinder kit MotorCraft SW-6383 ~$60 (not the A/C clutch pressure switch with the same number) . StratTec is the OEM for the Ford kit, and its number is 707624 for about half the price. The blank key is 597638 for ~$2.50~6 each.
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The cylinder must be rotated back to OFF before rotating forward past START to disassemble it from its housing. New lock cylinder set ~$70~100 (3): with black keys (2), black ignition cylinder, stainless door cylinders (2) Ford (1L3Z-11582-A) improved lock cylinder kit MotorCraft SW-6383 ~$60 (not the A/C clutch pressure switch with the same number) . StratTec is the OEM for the Ford kit, and its number is 707624 for about half the price. The blank key is 597638 for ~$2.50~6 each.
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As the cylinder passes START, the cam on the end will disengage from the mating cam in the housing, and the detent springs will push the cylinder out slightly. New lock cylinder set ~$70~100 (3): with black keys (2), black ignition cylinder, stainless door cylinders (2) Ford (1L3Z-11582-A) improved lock cylinder kit MotorCraft SW-6383 ~$60 (not the A/C clutch pressure switch with the same number) . StratTec is the OEM for the Ford kit, and its number is 707624 for about half the price. The blank key is 597638 for ~$2.50~6 each.
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Note the orientation of the detent ring as it falls off. Don't lose the brass detent springs & pins from inside the housing (NOT VISIBLE in this pic).
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Inspect all the working parts of the cylinder. If it's damaged or worn, don't waste your time trying this repair. Buy a new one and have a locksmith cut your door locks onto the new ignition key. If the cylinder is merely gummed with minimal wear like this one, proceed... See also: .  .
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Use brake cleaner liberally (in a ventilated area where the overspray & drips won't damage anything) to clean all the old grease & worn metal out of the cylinder's moving parts. Run the key in & out several times to work the cleaner in & break up dried grease or other contamination. Keep spraying until it runs out clean, then allow the cylinder to dry thoroughly AND return to room-temperature (or warmer).
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Insert the key, align the collar perfectly, mark the collar to the cylinder, and remove the key while holding the parts in alignment. Apparently, this truck was previously driven by a blind epileptic drunk. New lock cylinder set ~$70~100 (3): with black keys (2), black ignition cylinder, stainless door cylinders (2) Ford (1L3Z-11582-A) improved lock cylinder kit MotorCraft SW-6383 ~$60 (not the A/C clutch pressure switch with the same number) . StratTec is the OEM for the Ford kit, and its number is 707624 for about half the price. The blank key is 597638 for ~$2.50~6 each.
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Apply glue to a small area and allow it to dry while holding alignment. Recheck, and if necessary, break the glue and reset for perfect alignment.
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Once they're glued together in one spot, fill the gap between the collar & cylinder, allowing the glue to wick in between the parts. DO NOT ALLOW THE GLUE TO RUN into the moving parts of the cylinder. Have superglue remover nearby with a loose cap in case you get glue on your skin, or in the wrong parts of the cylinder.
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Once the glue is thoroughly dry, and you're satisfied with the alignment, apply light oil to the cylinder's moving parts and work the key a few times, ensuring that the lock bar rises & falls properly.
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Insert the cylinder back into the housing, aligning the cams at the inner end, then rotate the cylinder back to RUN so it can be reinstalled in the column. Push the catch pin up, insert the assembly, then turn the key to OFF to force the catch pin down. Check all functions. If it still doesn't work right, you wasted a few minutes & a few cents worth of superglue & brake cleaner. Buy a new one & have a locksmith cut the doors onto the new ignition key, or buy a kit cylinder & build it to fit your original key. New lock cylinder set ~$70~100 (3): with black keys (2), black ignition cylinder, stainless door cylinders (2) Ford (1L3Z-11582-A) improved lock cylinder kit MotorCraft SW-6383 ~$60 (not the A/C clutch pressure switch with the same number) . StratTec is the OEM for the Ford kit, and its number is 707624 for about half the price. The blank key is 597638 for ~$2.50~6 each. See also: .
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Lock Cylinder
