Originally, the plan was to remove the lift. But the first time I rinsed the engine, I noticed the radiator was nearly empty, which led to finding the timing cover gasket leaking, in addition to several substantial oil leaks.



So the plan was changed to resealing the engine, and just tightening up the suspension with some new Energy black bushings & a few other repairs.



Those #&$!)^?!! battery terminals...

The Bronco was delivered on a rollback due to stalling in traffic & not restarting. But it drove off the wrecker, and I drove it around without any apparent problem. So after cleaning out the FDM & swapping in the '96 pump (the '95 tank plate had to stay for its connector, and there was no reason to change the level sender or float), the fuel pressure was the same as before, and just as steady. I was never able to duplicate or diagnose the stall. My best guess is that it was due to the battery terminals (which I replaced later).

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The timing cover gasket leak rapidly became the focus of the repairs.

. .

After some careful hammering, the latch handle is pretty close to the original shape. I also greased the latch & tightened the operating rod so it opens easily now.

Since this sleeve isn't available, I just turned each piece around so the strike area is unworn.

Since this housing had to be swapped anyway (note the foil tape NOT covering the gaping hole in the bottom), I pulled it early to make pulling the engine easier. I also emptied the cowl on this side.

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I really should have pulled the hood first, but without the water pump and with the front tires flat, it came out pretty easily.

I capped everything that was open and pressure-washed what I couldn't get with the engine in.

The paint on the back of the block is original, and pretty close to original-color. The rear main seal doesn't seem to be leaking.

I also hit the engine a couple more times with the pressure washer. It was really-effective at removing the water pump gasket, and blasting the last of the coolant out of the heads & block.

The TC gasket seems to have degraded from the outside inward, toward the coolant passages.

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The pan gasket was left over from the '96 engine when I realized its factory gasket was reusable. IDK if this one wasn't, or if someone didn't realize it. The blower motor got cleaned & lubed. All the old '95 parts got brushed before being sprayed with DupliColor DE1611.

The JBG engine mounts arrived assembled, but unpainted. So they got engine paint, and the timing cover got Aluminum Cast Coat.

. .

The JBG engine mounts arrived assembled, but unpainted. So they got engine paint, like the timing cover bolts, and HB bolt & washer.

. . . . .

After pressure-washing it several times, I basically hosed the engine down with paint, except the intake & plenum. I didn't want to break those seals, or risk breaking those bolts. Same for the exhaust manifolds - they're not leaking, so no reason to risk it. The spark plugs are being replaced anyway. There was never any indication that the rear main was leaking, so I didn't mess with it, but I did threadlock the flexplate bolts.

The TC gasket should always be trimmed flush before installing the pan. I reinstalled the (newish) water pump with a new gasket.



Of course, the timing cover got a new front main seal.

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New gaskets for the timing cover, water pump, & oil pan



The new EGR pipe is on the way, but I've already broken the threads loose, cleaned them, applied anti-seize, and put the old one back on so I can run the engine.



The alternator bracket bosses are polished & coated with electrical grease. So is the block ground, and its stud bolt & nut are painted green (to make it obvious what it's for). The timing pointer blade is white, and so are the marks on the balancer. I also added arrows in case it's ever way off. The JBG engine mounts look like they'll last MUCH-longer than the original design.

I decided to re-hang this box before putting the engine back since the evaporator is a tight fit past the plenum. The original evaporator insulation was mostly-intact, but decaying, and wet. So I traced it onto this Aluminized bubble sheet, which should work better & last longer, while looking similar. It's attached by the original fasteners.

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I should have waited to install the WP, but with the hood off, the engine still slid in.

Reassembly went quickly, but the new plugs showed up late, so I didn't start it tonight. The drivebelt (FEAD) isn't in-place yet.

With the blower box intact now, the A/C should work better & blow less dust into the cab.

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The new upper shock bushings are on, and I reversed the U-nut on the battery support so the wheelwell will be easier to R&R from now on.

The engine paint isn't actually made for exhaust manifold temperatures, so it turned a whiter shade of pale.

Just for peace of mind, I added a Magnefine to the PS return line.

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The lower radiator hose is routed so it doesn't rest against the PS box, and its split loom is positioned to protect it, if it ever does touch.



The ATF cooler got 2 new pieces of correct hose, and a Magnefine. Rather than cutting, the hard line was simply bent to create space for the filter.

. .
__________________________________________
TSB 00-23-10 Transmission Fluid In-Line Filter Kit
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C8RAYE
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TITC0Q
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CIKJMY

Publication Date: NOVEMBER 6, 2000

FORD:
1980-1997 THUNDERBIRD
1980-2001 CROWN VICTORIA
1984-2001 MUSTANG
1985-1990 BRONCO II
1985-2001 RANGER
1987-1997 AEROSTAR
1989-1996 BRONCO
1989-1997 F SUPER DUTY, F-250 HD
1989-2001 ECONOLINE, F-150, F-250 LD, F-350, F-450
1991-2002 EXPLORER
1997-2001 EXPEDITION
1999-2001 F-250 HD, SUPER DUTY F SERIES
2000-2001 EXCURSION

LINCOLN:
1982-2001 TOWN CAR
2000-2001 LS
1998-2001 NAVIGATOR

MERCURY:
1980-2001 GRAND MARQUIS
1987-1997 COUGAR
1997-2002 MOUNTAINEER

ISSUE: Contamination from prior transmission concerns or excess wear may be trapped in the transmission fluid cooling system. This debris must be removed by properly cleaning the transmission cooling system. After cleaning, some contamination may still remain. The remaining contamination may be reintroduced into the fluid cooling system of a repaired/replaced transmission causing premature or repeat failures.

ACTION: After every overhaul or transmission exchange, clean, flush and backflush the transmission fluid cooling system which includes: fluid cooler, auxiliary cooler, cooler lines, and Cooler Bypass Valve (CBV), if equipped. Perform the cooler flow test to ensure proper transmission fluid flow volume on the transmission return line through the cooling system. Once proper fluid flow volume is verified install the Transmission Fluid In-Line Filter Kit (XC3Z-7B155-AA) in the fluid cooler return line (transmission fluid flow coming out of the fluid cooler going into the transmission). Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

NOTE: THIS IN-LINE TRANSMISSION FLUID FILTER KIT CAN BE INSTALLED ON ALL TRANSMISSIONS WITH 8mm (5/16") AND 9.5mm (3/8") TRANSMISSION FLUID COOLER LINES.

NOTE: THIS IN-LINE TRANSMISSION FLUID FILTER KIT WILL ALSO BE SUPPLIED WITH ALL E4OD/4R100 AND OTHER FORD QUALITY REMANUFACTURED (FQR) TRANSMISSIONS. AFTER ANY OVERHAUL OR TRANSMISSION EXCHANGE PRIOR TO CONNECTING THE TRANSMISSION FLUID COOLING SYSTEM TO THE TRANSMISSION, FOLLOW THE STEPS BELOW.

Clean, flush and backflush transmission fluid cooling system.

NOTE: VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH STAND-ALONE OIL-TO-AIR (OTA) FLUID COOLERS CANNOT BE PROPERLY FLUSHED. ADDITIONALLY, 1998-2001 CROWN VICTORIA/GRAND MARQUIS AND TOWN CAR HAVE OIL-TO-AIR (OTA) FLUID COOLERS EQUIPPED WITH A TERMINAL BY-PASS VALVE. FOR ALL VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH STAND-ALONE OTA COOLERS, THE OTA COOLER MUST BE REPLACED ON EVERY OVERHAUL OR TRANSMISSION EXCHANGE. REFER TO THE APPROPRIATE SERVICE/WORKSHOP MANUAL FOR PROCEDURE.

Once the fluid cooling system has been cleaned, flushed and backflushed, connect the cooler lines and perform the transmission fluid flow test to ensure proper fluid flow. Refer to the appropriate Service/Workshop Manual for procedure. If proper fluid flow volume is not obtained, refer to appropriate Service/Workshop Manual for repair procedure. The transmission fluid coolers, auxiliary cooler, OTA, cooler lines, CBV (if equipped), transmission fluid pump or internal filter may be restricted or damaged and require replacement.
CAUTION: FAILURE TO FOLLOW THE KIT INSTRUCTIONS MAY CAUSE INTERNAL TRANSMISSION ASSEMBLY DAMAGE AND REPEAT REPAIRS.
Only after proper transmission fluid flow volume is present, install the Transmission Fluid In-Line Filter Kit (XC3Z-7B155-AA). Follow the instructions provided with the kit.

Once the filter is installed:
With the transmission fluid return line disconnected from the transmission, verify fluid flow through the filter. Once the fluid flow in-and-out of the filter is verified, connect the transmission fluid return line to the transmission. Check and adjust proper transmission fluid level to normal operating range at normal operating temperature and check for leaks, kinks and chafe points (refer to the "Do's and Don'ts" chart in the kit instructions).

NOTE: THE FILTER INCLUDED IN THIS KIT WILL ALSO BE AVAILABLE AS A SEPARATE PART (XC3Z-7B155-BA). IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT THIS IN-LINE FILTER BE CHANGED EVERY 48,000 KILOMETERS (30,000 MILES).

PART NUMBER PART NAME
XC3Z-7B155-AA Transmission Fluid In-Line Filter Kit (Complete)
XC3Z-7B155-BA In-Line Filter Only (Separate)

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
SUPERSEDES: 00-03-08
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
002310AB Perform Flow Test And Install In-Line Fluid Filter 0.7 Hr.
002310A Additional Time To Retest Fluid Flow Before Installing In-Line Filter (To Be Used Only After Additional Repairs Are Performed) 0.3 Hr.

http://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/Main/quickref/atf.pdf

The lower radiator hose is now routed to clear the PS box, and its split-loom is positioned to protect it.



The new HD JBG engine mounts don't seem to have raised the engine enough to cause any fan interference (possibly due to the new black Energy poly body mounts raising the core support to match).

The '96 trans mount is slightly different (stronger) and its upper frame is not touching the crossmember.

The body mounts & radius arm bushings are much tighter. And the RA bushings are installed correctly now.

. .

Dropping the skidplate or tank is easier working above the bumper because the receiver blocks access from below. The filler's bolts are still difficult to get at, and sometimes they rust to the U-nuts on the plastic filler, but these came out easily with a little PB blaster.

Since the tank was nearly dry, it only took a ladyslipper to support the tank while I dropped the skidplate to hammer it flat. There's a small dent on the driver's side of the tank, but it hasn't started rusting anywhere.

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I made a DLC jumper wire, and marked the connectors for pulling codes & locking the fuel pump on.

New battery terminals including a slightly-longer body ground wire.



The battery is also clamped down now.

While changing the shifter boot, I zip-tied the key-in contact.

New Energy black poly on the rear sway bar end links. The bar is still misaligned due to the lift, but these bushings should handle it better.

. .

When the new EGR pipe arrived, it was easy to change since I had anti-seized the old one. Only the little strap between the sensor tubes is holding the cracked main pipe together.

As soon as the engine warmed up with the new timing cover gasket, a leak at the oil cooler hose became apparent, so it was replaced with a Gates 22401.

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I used a floor jack handle to straighten the tailpipe.