The clutch engaged too close to the firewall, so before the pedal shaft wore into the steel pedal box, I pulled the pedals down to repair it.
This explains why & how to check the lever:
TOOLS:
BOO & pushrod hairpin - hand, or hook pick
Booster - 9/16" deep
Clutch MC - 13mm deep
Clutch pushrod - hand, or small prybar
Box to firewall - 10mm shallow
Steering shaft - 13mm
Clutch lever - 4" vise, 18mm, & BFH
Torque Specs:
Clutch Master Cylinder Nuts (13mm) 10-14 Nm; 7-10 lb-ft; 89-124 lb-in
Brake Pedal and Bracket Assembly to "Y" Brace Bolts (10mm heads; M8-1.25 x 16) 21-29 Nm; 15-21 lb-ft
Bleed Screw 3-5 Nm; 27-44 lb-in
Clutch Pivot Shaft Nut (18mm) 68-92 Nm; 50-68 lb-ft
Teflon to make a replacement bushing, if you don't want to use the Ford kit
F3TZ-2C342-A.
.
GO TO THE NEXT SEVERAL PICS & read their captions...
