Most jobs are quicker, easier, & cheaper if the vehicle is CLEAN before starting. Water is safe to use on nearly everything because it's no different than driving in heavy rain. Just avoid oil seals & distributors. Some soap/surfactant (I use dilute Dawn & PurplePower) gets things even cleaner even quicker.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

This rotor ('80-93 MotorCraft BRR8) has been mildly scored by excessive wear on the pad (Motorcraft BR41B). Although resurfacing or replacement is always preferred, this damage isn't severe enough to require it on a vehicle whose rotor is this difficult to remove/install.

Before buying craptasmic brakes or other common parts, check for coupons & service offers from Ford.

This rotor ('80-93 MotorCraft BRR8) has been scored severely by the pad (Motorcraft BR41B) lining wearing so thin that it shattered and fell off. The rotor must be resurfaced or replaced.

These pads are about 11 years old; the rotor was factory; the spacer is so I can run Dodge 16" rims.



'80-93 Front Rotor MotorCraft BRR8
'79-85 Front Pads Motorcraft BR43B
'86-93 Front Pads Motorcraft BR41B
'94-96 Front Pads Motorcraft BR46
'94-96 Front Rotor Motorcraft BRR56

Any of these could have been driving next to you.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.



...or it could have BEEN you driving one of them.

Some of these are described in more detail in the NEXT several pics...

Vented Rotor - you're doing it wrong.

This is what happens when you let the brakes grind for a while. The NEXT few pics show what happens if you let it go longer.

This rotor was allowed to wear completely through the inner surface, exposing the vent fins. The driver didn't notice until the caliper piston had hyperextended enough to leak fluid, resulting in NO pedal feel.

No, it's not on a Bronco. IIRC, it was an Escort, and yes, it was a girl driving.

Before buying craptasmic brakes or other common parts, check for coupons & service offers from Ford.

This guy was refilling the master cylinder reservoir every morning, and didn't have brakes again every afternoon. For a month.

These were found on a truck that was driven to a local repair shop for "poor brake performance". The owner had let the rear pads wear away, and the inboard backing plates had eaten away the rotors until they broke off the hats - a seriously poor design by Dodge. Then he kept driving until the rotors cut into the hats again almost until another section came off. One of them DID come off when the mess was removed from the axle.

IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Driving Caliper Clips Out, rubber style (Ford F2TZ2C150A; MC BRCK5030)

The stainless shells of the clip have 2 catches at each end holding the clip to the steering knuckle. Use a hammer & drift to knock the outboard catches inside the groove so the clip can be pushed through.

The inner pad anti-rattle clip is D6TZ2B164C. ACDelco set of 6 clips

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

TSB 98-5A-13 NEW SPECIFICATION - Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound to be used for Disc Brake Caliper Slides

Publication Date: MARCH 18, 1998

FORD:
1984-1994 TEMPO
1984-1996 MUSTANG, THUNDERBIRD
1985-1996 CROWN VICTORIA, ESCORT
1986-1996 TAURUS
1989-1996 PROBE
1994-1996 ASPIRE
1995-1996 CONTOUR

LINCOLN-MERCURY:
1982-1996 CONTINENTAL
1984-1994 TOPAZ
1984-1996 COUGAR
1985-1996 GRAND MARQUIS
1986-1996 SABLE, TOWN CAR
1987-1989 TRACER
1991-1994 CAPRI
1991-1996 TRACER
1993-1996 MARK VIII
1995-1996 MYSTIQUE

LIGHT TRUCK:
1983-1996 RANGER
1986-1996 AEROSTAR
1990-1996 BRONCO, ECONOLINE, F SUPER DUTY, F-150-350 SERIES
1991-1996 EXPLORER
1993-1996 VILLAGER
1995-1996 WINDSTAR
MEDIUM/HEAVY TRUCK: 1990-1991 C SERIES
1990-1996 F & B SERIES

ISSUE: The use of petroleum-based grease as a lubricant in servicing disc brakes is no longer acceptable because it may be incompatible with the rubber material used in the disc brake system. If petroleum-based grease is used to lubricate any part of the disc brake system, it could cause rubber parts to swell if lubricant contacts the rubber material.

ACTION: Refer to the following Servicing Procedures for details.

DISC BRAKE SERVICING
CAUTION: DO NOT USE PETROLEUM-BASED SERVICE GREASE (SUCH AS FORD DISC BRAKE CALIPER SLIDE GREASE D7AZ-19590-A) TO LUBRICATE DISC BRAKE CALIPER SLIDE PINS OR RUBBER DUST BOOTS. PETROLEUM-BASED GREASE MAY CAUSE EPDM RUBBER TO SWELL.

When servicing any disc brakes, lubricate necessary components by applying Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound (D7AZ-19A331-A (Motorcraft WA-10)) or an equivalent silicone compound meeting Ford Specification ESE-M1C171-A. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual for specific service details.

DRUM BRAKE SERVICING
When servicing drum brakes, apply Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound (D7AZ-19A331-A (Motorcraft WA-10)) or an equivalent silicone compound meeting Ford Specification ESE-M1C171-A to the contact points between the brake shoes and the drum backing plates for lubrication.

NOTE: DISC BRAKE CALIPER SLIDE GREASE D7AZ-19590-A SHOULD NO LONGER BE USED FOR DISC BRAKE CALIPER SLIDE LUBRICATION.

OTHER SERVICE APPLICATIONS
Existing inventory of D7AZ-19590-A may be used for all other Service Manual procedures. Once material is exhausted, all vehicle procedures specifying Disc Brake Caliper Slide Grease (D7AZ-19590-A) should use Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound (D7AZ-19A331-A).

PART NUMBER : PART NAME
D7AZ-19A331-A : Silicone Brake Caliper Grease And Dielectric Compound



OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
SUPERSEDES: 95-21-02

Driving Caliper Clips Out, rubber style

The stainless shells of the clip have 2 catches at each end holding the clip to the steering knuckle. Use a hammer & drift to knock the outboard catches inside the groove so the clip can be pushed through.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

TSB 98-5A-13 NEW SPECIFICATION - Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound to be used for Disc Brake Caliper Slides

Publication Date: MARCH 18, 1998

FORD:
1984-1994 TEMPO
1984-1996 MUSTANG, THUNDERBIRD
1985-1996 CROWN VICTORIA, ESCORT
1986-1996 TAURUS
1989-1996 PROBE
1994-1996 ASPIRE
1995-1996 CONTOUR

LINCOLN-MERCURY:
1982-1996 CONTINENTAL
1984-1994 TOPAZ
1984-1996 COUGAR
1985-1996 GRAND MARQUIS
1986-1996 SABLE, TOWN CAR
1987-1989 TRACER
1991-1994 CAPRI
1991-1996 TRACER
1993-1996 MARK VIII
1995-1996 MYSTIQUE

LIGHT TRUCK:
1983-1996 RANGER
1986-1996 AEROSTAR
1990-1996 BRONCO, ECONOLINE, F SUPER DUTY, F-150-350 SERIES
1991-1996 EXPLORER
1993-1996 VILLAGER
1995-1996 WINDSTAR
MEDIUM/HEAVY TRUCK: 1990-1991 C SERIES
1990-1996 F & B SERIES

ISSUE: The use of petroleum-based grease as a lubricant in servicing disc brakes is no longer acceptable because it may be incompatible with the rubber material used in the disc brake system. If petroleum-based grease is used to lubricate any part of the disc brake system, it could cause rubber parts to swell if lubricant contacts the rubber material.

ACTION: Refer to the following Servicing Procedures for details.

DISC BRAKE SERVICING
CAUTION: DO NOT USE PETROLEUM-BASED SERVICE GREASE (SUCH AS FORD DISC BRAKE CALIPER SLIDE GREASE D7AZ-19590-A) TO LUBRICATE DISC BRAKE CALIPER SLIDE PINS OR RUBBER DUST BOOTS. PETROLEUM-BASED GREASE MAY CAUSE EPDM RUBBER TO SWELL.

When servicing any disc brakes, lubricate necessary components by applying Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound (D7AZ-19A331-A (Motorcraft WA-10)) or an equivalent silicone compound meeting Ford Specification ESE-M1C171-A. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual for specific service details.

DRUM BRAKE SERVICING
When servicing drum brakes, apply Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound (D7AZ-19A331-A (Motorcraft WA-10)) or an equivalent silicone compound meeting Ford Specification ESE-M1C171-A to the contact points between the brake shoes and the drum backing plates for lubrication.

NOTE: DISC BRAKE CALIPER SLIDE GREASE D7AZ-19590-A SHOULD NO LONGER BE USED FOR DISC BRAKE CALIPER SLIDE LUBRICATION.

OTHER SERVICE APPLICATIONS
Existing inventory of D7AZ-19590-A may be used for all other Service Manual procedures. Once material is exhausted, all vehicle procedures specifying Disc Brake Caliper Slide Grease (D7AZ-19590-A) should use Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound (D7AZ-19A331-A).

PART NUMBER : PART NAME
D7AZ-19A331-A : Silicone Brake Caliper Grease And Dielectric Compound



OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
SUPERSEDES: 95-21-02

If the rotors (BRR56 / BRR207) are heavily scored or lipped, it will be necessary to compress the caliper with a prybar before swinging the caliper & pads off the rotor.

Always photograph or manually copy this style of axle tag before it becomes illegible. There is no other ID information on axles with this style of tag, so if this tag is obliterated, there's nothing left to look up parts from. Read the TSB in this caption:

Caliper Piston Compression Tool

Before new pads can be installed over a new rotor, the caliper must be fully compressed to make space.

If a front brake line must be opened (as for replacement), leave this step for last. Compressing the caliper will reverse-bleed the line, as long as the caliper is compressed in its normal upright position, with the brake line connection at the top.

Caliper Hoses
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Sliding Caliper Details
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Floating Caliper Pad Removal for '94-up
MotorCraft Pad Set BR-46 does not include hold-down springs
MotorCraft Pad Set BRF-1390 includes springs
MotorCraft Pad Set BRSD-632 is super-duty pad set
Wagner Semi-Metallic Pad Set MX52 [MX728A]


'94-96 caliper slide bolts Motorcraft BRCK5066 (no boots)
'94-96 front pads Motorcraft BR46
'94-96 Front Brake RotorMotorcraft BRR56 (BRR207?)



____________________________________________

If you're reading this whole album for your 2WD truck, you can skip to this caption:


____________________________________________________
TSB 98-5A-38 BRAKES - CALIPERS - FRONT CALIPER PISTON BOOTS DAMAGED

Publication Date: MARCH 18, 1998

LIGHT TRUCK: 1986-91 E-250, E-350
1986-94 F-250, F-350

ISSUE: Some vehicles may have experienced deterioration of the front brake caliper piston boots resulting from exposure to high operating temperatures during severe service.

ACTION: Replace the caliper piston boots with a new, more robust service caliper piston boot. The new silicone rubber boot can withstand higher operating temperatures without damage. The new boot is completely interchangeable with the prior design and will become the only service boot available.

The heat damaged boots should be replaced with the new Boot (E7TZ-2207-A). Refer to the appropriate Service Manual for removal and installation procedures.

PART NUMBER PART NAME
E7TZ-2207-A Caliper Piston Boot

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES:

SUPERSEDES: 94-24-11

WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage For 1992-94 Model Year Vehicles, Basic Warranty Coverage For All Other Model Years

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
9805A38AT Overhaul Front Calipers - Both 1.5 Hrs.
9805A38A Overhaul Front Caliper - One 1.2 Hrs.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
TSB 98-5A-13 NEW SPECIFICATION - Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound to be used for Disc Brake Caliper Slides

Publication Date: MARCH 18, 1998

FORD:
1984-1994 TEMPO
1984-1996 MUSTANG, THUNDERBIRD
1985-1996 CROWN VICTORIA, ESCORT
1986-1996 TAURUS
1989-1996 PROBE
1994-1996 ASPIRE
1995-1996 CONTOUR

LINCOLN-MERCURY:
1982-1996 CONTINENTAL
1984-1994 TOPAZ
1984-1996 COUGAR
1985-1996 GRAND MARQUIS
1986-1996 SABLE, TOWN CAR
1987-1989 TRACER
1991-1994 CAPRI
1991-1996 TRACER
1993-1996 MARK VIII
1995-1996 MYSTIQUE

LIGHT TRUCK:
1983-1996 RANGER
1986-1996 AEROSTAR
1990-1996 BRONCO, ECONOLINE, F SUPER DUTY, F-150-350 SERIES
1991-1996 EXPLORER
1993-1996 VILLAGER
1995-1996 WINDSTAR
MEDIUM/HEAVY TRUCK: 1990-1991 C SERIES
1990-1996 F & B SERIES

ISSUE: The use of petroleum-based grease as a lubricant in servicing disc brakes is no longer acceptable because it may be incompatible with the rubber material used in the disc brake system. If petroleum-based grease is used to lubricate any part of the disc brake system, it could cause rubber parts to swell if lubricant contacts the rubber material.

ACTION: Refer to the following Servicing Procedures for details.

DISC BRAKE SERVICING
CAUTION: DO NOT USE PETROLEUM-BASED SERVICE GREASE (SUCH AS FORD DISC BRAKE CALIPER SLIDE GREASE D7AZ-19590-A) TO LUBRICATE DISC BRAKE CALIPER SLIDE PINS OR RUBBER DUST BOOTS. PETROLEUM-BASED GREASE MAY CAUSE EPDM RUBBER TO SWELL.

When servicing any disc brakes, lubricate necessary components by applying Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound (D7AZ-19A331-A (Motorcraft WA-10)) or an equivalent silicone compound meeting Ford Specification ESE-M1C171-A. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual for specific service details.

NOTE: DISC BRAKE CALIPER SLIDE GREASE D7AZ-19590-A SHOULD NO LONGER BE USED FOR DISC BRAKE CALIPER SLIDE LUBRICATION.

DRUM BRAKE SERVICING
When servicing drum brakes, apply Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound (D7AZ-19A331-A (Motorcraft WA-10)) or an equivalent silicone compound meeting Ford Specification ESE-M1C171-A to the contact points between the brake shoes and the drum backing plates for lubrication.

OTHER SERVICE APPLICATIONS
Existing inventory of D7AZ-19590-A may be used for all other Service Manual procedures. Once material is exhausted, all vehicle procedures specifying Disc Brake Caliper Slide Grease (D7AZ-19590-A) should use Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound (D7AZ-19A331-A).

PART NUMBER : PART NAME
D7AZ-19A331-A : Silicone Brake Caliper Grease And Dielectric Compound



OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
SUPERSEDES: 95-21-2



____________________________________________

If you're reading this whole album for your 2WD truck, you can skip to this caption:

5-Screw Automatic Hub Lock Exploded
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
3B459 - E5TZ1198A

There should never be a need to disassemble the hub lock body to this degree, unless it has been severely neglected or abused. DO NOT pack the lock with grease - a light coat is enough; any more will jam the mechanism. The correct way to clean & lube an auto hub lock is to dunk it in ATF each time the wheel bearings are serviced (which should be FREQUENTLY if the truck is used off-road; or every 30Kmi if it's not).

The inner & outer wheel bearing adjusting nuts are not shown, but the outer (without pin) goes outboard of the perforated locking washer (3B459), which goes against the inner (with pin pointing out). If the pin is pushed into the nut, use a drift to push it back out.

See also:
. . . . .

5-screw Lock Disassembled
This level of disassembly is NOT necessary for removal or replacement.
4-slot spanner nut - E5TZ1197A
4-tab lock washer - E5TZ1198A

This early axle uses a single thick steel splined thrust washer (closest to the cap screws) instead of the later 3-piece thrust washer. Install three washers in order: metal washer first, plastic washer second and splined washer last.

. . . . . . .

This lock was rusty & didn't fully engage, when I was able to force it to move. So I stripped it down, soaked all the parts in kerosene for a while, and then wire-brushed each one so I could figure out how it works, and if it was repairable. Turns out there's virtually no damage under the rust & grime that I removed, so I'm putting this one in my truck.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

UPDATE 5/31/16: It has been working reliably for over a year now, including frequent off-roading, pushing trees down, and even knocking a few stumps out of the ground.

Disassembly:
1) After removing the lock body assembly from the hub, wipe the grease off. Rinse in solvent (kerosene, mineral spirits, or parts cleaner) to remove as much residue as possible.
2) From the inboard end, use external snap ring pliers to expand the stator ring and push the sleeve through the body assembly. Tilt the stator assembly and lift the clutch spring tips out of the cam brake slot.
3) Remove the clutch spring cover, clutch spring, & spacer from the stator.
4) Use a pick to lift one end of the cam ring out of its groove, and work the ring out of the body.
5) Lift the cam lip opposite the brake slot, then lift the cam over the brake and out of the body.
6) Work the brake's tabs out of the body grooves, and lift out the brake.
7) Dump the sleeve assembly out of the lock body.
8 ) From the outboard end, compress the cup washer, pry out the spring ring, and remove the unlock spring from the sleeve. Remove its cup.
9) Push the stop ring out of the sleeve's groove, and remove it between the lock spring's coils.
10) Slide the sleeve out of the follower & gear.
11)Pry one of the follower's tangs over the lip of the gear, then the other, and allow the lock spring to separate them.

Clean all parts thoroughly, wire-brushing as needed to remove hardened grease, dirt, & rust scale. Wash in solvent, allow to dry, then apply a thin coat of disk-brake-rated (NOT marine) wheel bearing grease using a brush or by working mating parts together. Smooth & spread the grease by hand, and remove any excess. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, but it may be necessary to install the unlock spring last so the lock body can be held in the hub. For final lubrication & any subsequent light cleaning, submerge the lock body assembly in ATF every 30Kmi.

. . . . . . .

These are the parts of an '80-94 5-screw Automatic Hub Lock, in the order of removal. No further disassembly of the lock body is necessary for typical maintenance - only if the lock has malfunctioned. For wheel bearing maintenance, simply dunk the lock body in ATF.

. . . . . .

5-Screw Auto Hub Lock
These use a single thick splined shim between the C-clip & the spindle to hold the axle stub in place. Later designs used 3 washers. Install three washers in order: metal washer first, plastic washer second and splined washer last.

Before the C-washer can be installed, the stub shaft must be pushed fully outboard against the inner spindle seal by reaching behind the steering knuckle to the u-joint.

4-slot spanner nut - E5TZ1197A
4-tab lock washer - E5TZ1198A

. . . . . .

This greasy, dirty dust cap soaked in kerosene for about an hour, and then was nylon-brushed to get as clean as it is on the Left. A few seconds with some fine steel wool produced the result on the Right. It's equally-effective on bumpers, door handles, lock cylinders, antennae, and almost any other chrome or polished stainless (not bare Aluminum) surface. Stainless steel wool is preferred because common steel wool can cause rust-staining later.

This tiny "seal bridge" clip holds the flat rubber seal up between the cap & hub. It's often discarded or lost by careless mechanics & owners, creating a leak path that contaminates the hub, making them THINK there's some mystical design fault in the auto lock when the blame really goes to the monkey with the wrench.

. . . . . .

After removing the bridge clip, compress the lock body retaining ring on 5-screw auto lock, then remove the lock body & the ring together.

If the lock body wiggles, but won't slide out of the hub, it may be that the hub snout is deformed (from collision or a previous grease-monkey with a BFH). It may help to spin the hub/rotor (caliper & pads removed) fast enough to locate the eccentricities of the snout, and gently hammer it back into shape to allow the lock body to slide out. This condition is much more common with early & aftermarket manual hub locks than with autos because autos fill the snout better, providing structural rigidity.

. . . . .

This '95 Bronco XLT has floating calipers with 5-screw auto hub locks and early-style wheel bearing nuts.

'80-93 Front Rotor MotorCraft BRR8
'79-85 Front Pads Motorcraft BR43B
'86-93 Front Pads Motorcraft BR41B
'94-96 Front Pads Motorcraft BR46
'94-96 Front Rotor Motorcraft BRR56
On '87-early '88 with factory (flange-style) manual hub locks, the hub-rotor is one piece (MotorCraft BRR215?).

Ford 8.8" axle uses 10 lug studs D6AZ-1107-A ('83-00)
Dana 44IFS uses 10 lug studs D6TZ-1107-A ('83-96)
Ford TIB axle uses 10 lug studs F4UZ-1107-A ('94-96)

See also:
. . . . .

The hub locks & their dust caps (including the dials for manual locks) do not support any weight or retain any parts. They can be R&I'ed with the truck's full weight on the wheel.

If necessary, the truck can be driven this way indefinitely, but dust & water will contaminate the wheel bearing grease if it's not taped up, or covered with plastic & a rubber band. Consider braking temperatures when choosing materials.

SOLD Auto Hub Locks 5-screw

They need to be cleaned & lubed, but they're working & complete EXCEPT for the "seal bridges". Look at this diagram to see them. They can be fabricated in a few minutes with tin snips & pliers.

. . . . .

5-Screw Automatic Hub Locks

The 3 parts labelled 3B458 are the shim washers. The outer is splined steel; the middle is fiber/plastic; the inner is smooth steel. Install three washers in order: metal washer first, plastic washer second and splined washer last. They bear the stub shaft's thrust load (caused by the C-ring), and keep it fully OUTboard so the U-joint stays aligned between the ball joints, and so the outboard small snap ring used on manual hub locks can be installed. Early axles had a single solid steel splined spacer instead of these 3.

. .

'80-93 Front Rotor MotorCraft BRR8
'79-85 Front Pads Motorcraft BR43B
'86-93 Front Pads Motorcraft BR41B
'94-96 Front Pads Motorcraft BR46
'94-96 Front Rotor Motorcraft BRR56

. . . . .

Early 5-screw auto hub lock operation.

. . . .

Locking and Unlocking Hubs
--------------------------------------
Manual Locking Hubs
Manual locking hubs are simple to diagnose. Place the transfer case in two-wheel drive and raise the front wheels off the ground. When in the unlocked position, the wheels should be able to turn freely. Then lock each of the front hubs and rotate the front wheels. The additional load of the drivetrain components should be felt once the hub has been engaged. In addition, the axle and front driveshaft should be moving along with the wheel. Disengage the hubs and repeat the procedure to check that the hubs have smoothly disengaged.


Automatic Locking Hubs
NOTE: While the vehicle is hoisted, shift into 4WD from a dead stop and not while rear wheels are rotating in order to avoid slamming the hub locks into the lock position.

Raise vehicle on a hoist so that all wheels are off the ground. Start engine (6007) with vehicle in neutral and transfer case in 2WD. Front wheels should spin freely by hand. Put transfer case in 4WD and put vehicle in gear. Front and rear wheels should rotate together. Put vehicle in neutral and spin front wheels by hand in the forward direction. The front axle and front driveshaft should rotate with the wheels. The additional load of the drivetrain components should be felt once the hub has been engaged. To disengage the hubs, spin the wheels in the opposite direction until an audible "click" is heard. Spin wheels forward again and they should rotate freely without the axle and driveshaft rotating. Repeat the procedure, only shift into 4WD and put the vehicle in reverse. This time the hubs should release when the front wheels are spun in the forward direction.

When checking front hubs for proper operation, road test the vehicle to make sure the hubs will remain engaged while under load. This is accomplished by engaging four-wheel drive and taking the vehicle through several turns (both forward and backward) on dry pavement. This will put an additional load on the front wheel at the outside of the turn because it is traveling the greatest distance.

Driving through several turns while traveling in different directions will ensure that both sides of the hub teeth have been tested under load. Hubs that are not sufficiently engaged will "pop" out when loaded. This is due to the driveline releasing windup and is an indication of hub malfunction.

If slippage is suspected, mark the tire and axle with chalk (after locking the hub) and apply a heavy torque load several times. Then inspect your original indexing marks. If they are no longer aligned, the hubs are not remaining locked when under load. They will have to be replaced.

Should hub locks become submerged in water or mud for a long period of time, water may get past the seals and into the hubs and axle. In this case, all water must be expelled from the system. The axle must be drained by loosening the axle cover and new lubricant FITZ-19580-A (WSL-M2C191-A) used to refill the axle (FITZ-19580-A has no equivalent). Disassemble the hubs using procedures in this section and repack the wheel bearings using procedures in this section and dry off the hub locks.

3-screw Warn Automatic Hub Locks (F6TZ-1K105-AA)

Use a sharp pick to remove lock body retaining ring by finding the ends, then pulling one end up & out. All hub locks (3-screw, 5-screw, OE manual, & aftermarket) have a retaining ring in this location.

See the NEXT photo...

3-screw Warn Automatic Hub Locks (F6TZ-1K105-AA)

The 2 items at the far L are one complete hub lock assembly piled together. The top center is the hub lock body. Bottom center is the cap with 3 screw holes. Top R are the friction ring & large (outer) C-ring (which retains the lock body in the hub). Lower R (upper row) are: the 2.5-inch single wheel bearing adjusting hex-nut; the adjusting nut lock clip; the steel splined thrust washer; (lower row) the small (inner) C-ring (which retains the axle stub shaft in the spindle); the plastic thrust washer; and the steel thrust washer. Refer to this:


There should never be a need to disassemble the hub lock body any more than this, unless it has been severely neglected or abused. DO NOT pack the lock with grease - a light coat is enough; any more will jam the mechanism. The correct way to clean & lube an auto hub lock is to dunk it in ATF each time the wheel bearings are serviced (which should be FREQUENTLY if the truck is used off-road; or every 30Kmi if it's not).

See the NEXT pic, and:

Auto Hub Locks SUCK!!! . . . . ...right?
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

As bad as this looks, and despite the fact that it isn't working at the moment, there's nothing wrong with this 3-screw auto hub lock that can't be fixed with cleaning. And considering that this much water got past the 3 screws & wide O-ring of this cap, even more would have gotten in through the 5~6 screws, thin cap O-ring, and knob O-ring of a manual lock. It would also have done more rust-damage to those thinner springs. So manual hub locks are more-sensitive to neglect than autos. The only reason they seem to last longer is that they tend to be installed on trucks that need more hub maintenance anyway, so manuals get serviced more. But manual hub locks CAN & DO fail like this, and in even-worse ways.

After cleaning, this lock works perfectly. If it had been serviced the way Warn (the manufacturer) & Ford recommend (dunking in ATF twice a year), it never would have gotten this bad.

This lock was grimy, so I stripped it down (which required filing away some staked metal), soaked all the parts in naphtha for a while, and then scrub-brushed each one so I could figure out how it works, and if it was repairable. Turns out there's virtually no damage under the grime that I removed, like nearly all other 3-screw autos I've collected.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Disassembly:
1) After removing the lock body assembly from the hub, wipe the grease off. Rinse in solvent (naphtha, kerosene, mineral spirits, or parts cleaner) to remove as much residue as possible.
2) Remove the cam assembly from the hub; wipe & rinse it similarly.
3) Rotate the ramp until its slots align with the step so it comes out.
4) Gently compress the garter, extract it from the step, and separate the garter spring so all the cam pieces can be washed in solvent & scrubbed. FURTHER DISASSEMBLY IS NOT RECOMMENDED.
5) While submerged in solvent, rotate the drive spline & follower in the body until they align so the follower can be compressed against the wave springs, flushing solvent out of & into the lock body assembly until it flows out relatively clean.

Clean all parts thoroughly, scrub-brushing as needed to remove hardened grease, dirt, & rust scale. Wash in solvent, allow to dry, then apply a thin coat of disk-brake-rated (NOT marine) wheel bearing grease using a brush or by working mating parts together. Smooth & spread the grease by hand, and remove any excess. For final lubrication & any subsequent light cleaning, submerge the lock body assembly in ATF every 30Kmi.

. . . . . .

Wheel bearing adjusting nut (2.5-inch rounded hex) for 3-screw auto hub locks only. This nut requires so little torque to install that it can usually be removed with a screwdriver by hand. But the locking clip that slips into the inner grooves in the threads MUST be removed first.

This is the INBOARD surface of the nut, which faces the wheel bearing.

If a tool is needed, the correct one is a 2-1/2" rounded hex socket like PTW83244, Lisle 33160, OTC 6795, KD 3455, Mac WBS7795, Ford/Rotunda 205348, Lang 1244, OEM 25243, KTI 71924, or CTA 4180B.

See the NEXT pic...

This is the only pair of auto hub locks I've ever found that were actually ruined.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

'95-96 Bronco Front Disk Brake with floating calipers, 4WABS, 2-piece inner wheel seal, 3-screw auto hub locks; F150s do not have 4WABS, but are otherwise similar.

'80-93 Front Rotor MotorCraft BRR8
'79-85 Front Pads Motorcraft BR43B
'86-93 Front Pads Motorcraft BR41B
'94-96 Front Pads Motorcraft BR46
'94-96 Front Rotor Motorcraft BRR56
'80-96 D44IFS Outer Wheel Bearing Koyo SET45
'80-96 D44IFS Inner Wheel Bearing Timken SET36
'95-96 Front Inner Wheel Seal Timken 710430
'80-96 Spindle Seal Set Spicer 706527X

1 - Steering Knuckle - 3130(RH) 3131(LH)
2 - Front Disc Brake Rotor Shield - 2K004
3 - Seal, Spindle Inner - 1175 or 3299
4 - Bearing, Spindle - 3123 install with writing facing outward (inboard)
5 - Spindle - 3105
6 - Nut - 35704 tighten to 47 N-m (35 lb-ft)
7 - Seal, Rolling Diaphragm, Spindle Outer - 3254
8 - Seal, Inner Wheel - 1190
9 - Bearing, Inner Wheel - 4221 or 1201
10 - Race, Inner Wheel Bearing - 4222
11 - Hub, 4WD - 1104 (part of 1102)
12 - Race, Outer Wheel Bearing - 4222
13 - Bearing, Outer Wheel - 4221 or 1216
14 - Adjusting Nut, Wheel Bearing (2.5-inch rounded hex) - 3B459 Back off 90 degrees (1/4 turn); tighten to 1.8 N-m (16 lb-in); to align notch, tighten.
15 - Retainer Key - 3B549
16 - Thrust Washer (steel) - 3B458
17 - Thrust Washer (plastic) - 3B458
18 - Thrust Washer (splined) - 3B458
19 - C-ring - 3B457
20 - Rotor, 4WD - 1125 (part of 1102)
21 - Bolt, Wheel Hub (Lug) - 1107
22 - Brake Caliper Assembly - 2B120(RH) 2B121(LH)
23 - Bolt, Caliper Slide Pin - N807683-S60 (M8-1.25 x 65) tighten to 30-36 N-m (22-27 Lb-Ft)
24 - Spring, Brake Shoe Hold-Down - 2068
25 - Drag Cam Assembly - (part of 1K105)
26 - Lock Body Assembly - (F6TZ-1K105-AA)
27 - C-ring - (part of 1K104)
28 - Dust Cap - 1K104
29 - Screw, Dust Cap - (part of 1K104) tighten to 4-6 N-m (35-53 Lb-In)
30 - Sensor, 4WABS Front - 2L373 or 2C204 ('93-96 Bronco only) Standard ALS185
31 - Screw, 4WABS Sensor - tighten to 4.5-6.8 N-m (40-60 lb-in) ('93-96 Bronco only)
32 - Shield, 4WABS Sensor - RH 4432D, LH ('93-96 Bronco only)
33 - Screw,4WABS Sensor Shield (12-point 6mm head) - ('93-96 Bronco only)
34 - 55-Tooth Speed Sensor Ring (Indicator),4WABS Front - E7TZ2B409B/F37A-2C182-AC ('93-96 Bronco only)

See the NEXT pic...

3-screw Warn Automatic Hub Locks (F6TZ-1K105-AA)

Regarding part #3: I think the double-lip faces INboard (toward the diff) so that if pressure is higher OUTside the hub (deep water), the double-lip will expand slightly, forming a tighter seal against the axleshaft & spindle bearing race.

But that's just a guess.

Before the small outboard snap ring (18 in this diagram) can be installed, the stub shaft must be pushed fully outboard against the inner spindle seal by reaching behind the steering knuckle to the u-joint.

Ball Joint & Manual Hub Lock Parts
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

This diagram shows a common manual hub lock.

Ford 8.8" axle uses 10 lug studs D6AZ-1107-A ('83-00)
Dana 44IFS uses 10 lug studs D6TZ-1107-A ('83-96)
Ford TIB axle uses 10 lug studs F4UZ-1107-A ('94-96)

Note that, to make the drawing easier, the axle tube (bright green) is shown inclined. But in actuality, it is perfectly horizontal, and the spindle (olive green) & outer stub shaft (red) are angled slightly down.

The axis of the ball joints (through the centers of the balls; not necessarily along their shafts) must pass through the center of the U-joint whenever the U-joint is rotating. That's why the location of the outer stub shaft (red) is critical, and the snap ring must be installed outboard of the spindle.

Left-to-Right:
Charcoal - lock knob & cam
Yellow - dust cap
Teal Green - dust cap screws
Light Blue - engage spring
Denim Blue - hub
Purple - dust cap O-ring
Red - outer stub shaft
Green - axle snap ring
Light Gray - hub lock body
Black - hub lock
Bright Green - outer snap ring for hub lock body
Forest Green - disengage spring
Olive Green - spindle
Blood Red - wheel bearing adjusting nuts
Charcoal - adjusting nut lock ring
Pink - lock ring pin
Dark Gray - wheel bearings
Bright Green - lug studs
Light Blue - lug nuts
Orange - rim
Light Gray - brake rotor (disk)
Pale Purple - inner wheel seal
Bright Green - spindle studs
Royal Blue - spindle nuts
Pink - spindle bearing [install with writing facing outward (inboard)]
White - brake shield
Black - inner spindle seal
Yellow - axle shim
Dark Gray - axle spacer
Purple - steering knuckle
Pale Yellow - axle slinger
Baby Blue - lower ball joint cup
Dark Blue - ball joint snap rings
Teal Green - axle housing
Black - ball joint boots
Brown - lower ball joint stud
Orange - lower ball joint nut
Rust Brown - inner axle stub
Forest Green - universal joint caps & snap rings
Pink - u-joint trunnion & seals
Denim Blue - u-joint needle bearings
Pale Green - upper ball joint cup
Pink - upper ball joint stud
Orange - camber cam
Light Blue - upper ball joint castellated nut
Black - upper ball joint cotter pin
Lime Green - axle tube

See also:
.

Kingpin Hub Parts

This diagram shows a drive flange (pale yellow) where most have a hub lock.

Ford 8.8" axle uses 10 lug studs D6AZ-1107-A ('83-00)
Dana 44IFS uses 10 lug studs D6TZ-1107-A ('83-96)
Ford TIB axle uses 10 lug studs F4UZ-1107-A ('94-96)

Note that, to make the drawing easier, the axle tube (bright green) is shown inclined. But in actuality, it is perfectly horizontal, and the spindle (olive green) & stub shaft (red) are angled slightly down.

See also:
.

You don't have to spend $130/pr on Warn Premium hub locks to get a lifetime warranty. And the Warns are no stronger than MileMarkers. ***SEE BELOW*** I've put ~100Kmi on these off-roading in mud/sand/rocks, and even towing another truck on the highway in FWD when my rear d'shaft was out. The only reason I changed them out today was that the knobs were starting to wear out. Hub locks (other than '87-88 flange-style) can be changed with the front wheels on the ground as normal, and the truck is even safe to drive with the locks removed, but the wheel bearings will lose grease & become contaminated.

The big red NOTICE sticker says not to add ANY grease to the locks - just make sure the wheel bearings are lubed & adjusted properly. Packing the hub lock with grease will prevent it from working.

***After breaking 3 sets of these in quick succession, I've changed my mind about their strength. I returned these for credit, and I'm now running factory 5-screw auto locks.***

.

Stock (Warn) Manual Hub Locks
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

This diagram has errors & omissions. The axle stub shaft retainer is not shown. For 1/2-ton (5-lug) trucks, the brake rotor attaches to the rear (inboard face) of the hub flange by the lug studs' splines.

Ford 8.8" axle uses 10 lug studs D6AZ-1107-A ('83-00)
Dana 44IFS uses 10 lug studs D6TZ-1107-A ('83-96)
Ford TIB axle uses 10 lug studs F4UZ-1107-A ('94-96)

Hub Lock Outer Retaining Ring
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

To make removal easier, bend the tips of the ring inward slightly. Don't bend them so much that they hit the hub lock, preventing their removal. Another option is to grind the tips at an angle so it's easier for a tool to get under the ring inside the groove.

Manual Hub Locks
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

These use 3 washers (15,16,17) between the C-clip & the spindle to hold the axle stub in place. The previous design used a single thick splined shim. Before that, an outside snap-ring was used at the outer end of the axle stub. In both cases, before the small outboard snap ring (18 in this diagram) can be installed, the stub shaft must be pushed fully outboard against the inner spindle seal by reaching behind the steering knuckle to the u-joint.

Regarding part #2: I think the double-lip faces INboard (toward the diff) so that if pressure is higher OUTside the hub (deep water), the double-lip will expand slightly, forming a tighter seal against the axleshaft & spindle bearing race. But that's just a guess.

Parts 6&7:

6 is MotorCraft BRS78
7 is MotorCraft BRS85

'80-93 Front Rotor MotorCraft BRR8
'79-85 Front Pads Motorcraft BR43B
'86-93 Front Pads Motorcraft BR41B
'94-96 Front Pads Motorcraft BR46
'94-96 Front Rotor Motorcraft BRR56

Ford 8.8" axle uses 10 lug studs D6AZ-1107-A ('83-00)
Dana 44IFS uses 10 lug studs D6TZ-1107-A ('83-96)
Ford TIB axle uses 10 lug studs F4UZ-1107-A ('94-96)

Flange-style manual hub locks used only on '87-early '88 F150s & Broncos w/manual locks. '87-88 w/auto locks are "normal".
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

These are similar to those used on Bronco IIs & Explorers, but larger (5 on 5.5"). AKA "tophat" hub locks.

Axles with these hub locks use special 1-piece hub/rotors, and special short spindles.



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

TSB 88-08-17 Warn Hub Locks Inoperative

Publication Date: APRIL 15, 1988

LIGHT TRUCK: 1987-88 F-150, BRONCO

ISSUE: Inoperative front drive axle hublocks on 1987 and 1988 F-150 and Bronco vehicles may be caused by the control dial getting too hot and distorting. The hublock body is made of aluminum which transfers heat rapidly from the brake rotor to the hublock assembly. Under certain braking conditions such as brake dragging or downhill trailer towing control dial distortion may occur. Vehicles operated under these or similar conditions may not experience hublock control dial distortion but may be too hot for customers to engage or disengage the locking hub feature.

ACTION: To correct this, install a new hublock service kit that will not allow heat transfer to the control dial. Refer to the 1987/88 Light Truck Shop Manual, Volume A, Section 11-12-2 for removal of the existing hublocks. Use the 1986 Light Truck Shop Manual to install the new hublock kit, (E7TZ-1L104-A).

PART NUMBER PART NAME
E7TZ-1L104-A Hublock Kit - One (1) Required

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Basic Warranty Coverage

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
880817A Both hubs 1.8 Hrs.

Flange-style Hub Locks, a.k.a. TopHats

Note the LACK of screws around the selector dial.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

TSB 88-08-17 Warn Hub Locks Inoperative

Publication Date: APRIL 15, 1988

LIGHT TRUCK: 1987-88 F-150, BRONCO

ISSUE: Inoperative front drive axle hublocks on 1987 and 1988 F-150 and Bronco vehicles may be caused by the control dial getting too hot and distorting. The hublock body is made of aluminum which transfers heat rapidly from the brake rotor to the hublock assembly. Under certain braking conditions such as brake dragging or downhill trailer towing control dial distortion may occur. Vehicles operated under these or similar conditions may not experience hublock control dial distortion but may be too hot for customers to engage or disengage the locking hub feature.

ACTION: To correct this, install a new hublock service kit that will not allow heat transfer to the control dial. Refer to the 1987/88 Light Truck Shop Manual, Volume A, Section 11-12-2 for removal of the existing hublocks. Use the 1986 Light Truck Shop Manual to install the new hublock kit, (E7TZ-1L104-A).

PART NUMBER PART NAME
E7TZ-1L104-A Hublock Kit - One (1) Required

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Basic Warranty Coverage

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
880817A Both hubs 1.8 Hrs.

Early Hub Lock Exploded Diagrams
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Excerpts from the Dana/Spicer hub lock service manual. http://www2.dana.com/pdf/5330.PDF
available from the Dana Axle Expert site's Librarian.
http://www2.dana.com/Expert/wc.dll?DSD~demenu~DEMENUA~

Before the small outboard snap ring can be installed, the stub shaft must be pushed fully outboard against the inner spindle seal by reaching behind the steering knuckle to the u-joint.

See also:

4WABS Rotor Removal
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

If the rotor must be replaced on a '93-96 Bronco (4WABS) hub, the tone ring often causes problems because it's not easy to pull with a 3-jaw puller, and replacements are not available new. But by using a simple frame (I have this steel ring, but a triangle of 2x10" lumber is just as effective) to support the rotor above a wood pad on a concrete slab, the tone ring comes off fairly easily & quickly.
1) Hammer the studs loose, but don't damage the tone ring; then free the rotor from the hub (since the rotor is being replaced, hammering the rotor face is OK;
2) Place the rotor (hub-down) onto the frame on top of the wood pad;
3) The loose hub's weight holds the tone ring against the backs of the studs, which are against the rotor, which is on the frame on the board; holding the frame & rotor together, lift them off the pad and slam them down sharply, flat onto the pad
4) The impact will pull the hub down through the tone ring;
5) A few hard hits should be enough to separate the ring from the hub;
6) All 8 pieces are loose now, but the 5 studs are resting in the rotor;
7) The rotor holes are larger, so the lug studs' splines don't engage it - they fall out easily;
8 ) The hub can now be cleaned (especially the machined surfaces that the rotor & wheel mount against) and painted (if desired).

See also:
. . .

'80-96 rotor replacement requires removing the hub assembly & driving out the lug studs (Dorman 610-219). On '93-96 Broncos only, the tone ring must be removed.

'80-93 Front Rotor MotorCraft BRR8
'79-85 Front Pads Motorcraft BR43B
'86-93 Front Pads Motorcraft BR41B
'94-96 Front Pads Motorcraft BR46
'94-96 Front Rotor Motorcraft BRR56
'94-96 Bronco hub/rotor/tone-ring assembly Napa NB 4886441
'93 Bronco hub/rotor/tone-ring assembly Napa NB 4886444
On '87-early '88 with factory (flange-style) manual hub locks, the hub-rotor is one piece (MotorCraft BRR215?).

Ford 8.8" axle uses 10 lug studs D6AZ-1107-A ('83-00)
Dana 44IFS uses 10 lug studs D6TZ-1107-A ('83-96) (Dorman 610-219)
Ford TIB axle uses 10 lug studs F4UZ-1107-A ('94-96)

REASSEMBLY
1. Thoroughly clean the faces of the hub & rotor where they touch each other, AND where the rim will touch.

2. Set the rotor onto the back of the hub.
3. Drive the lug studs through both.
4. If applicable, install the tone ring.
5. Drop the packed inner wheel bearing (XW4Z-4221-AA) into its race in the back of the hub, & apply a ring of grease to its visible surface.
6. Install the appropriate inner wheel seal ('80-94 C9TZ-1S175-C).
7. Flip the assembly & apply a heavy ring of grease to the area between the bearing races in the hub.
8. Slip the hub onto the spindle ('93-96 F3TZ-3105-D), keeping as much grease as possible inside.
9. Fill as much of the hub as possible with grease, up to the outer wheel bearing race.
10. Slip the packed outer bearing (DV6Z-4221-A) onto the spindle, centering the hub around it so it goes in all the way.
11. Leaving any excess grease in place, install the wheel bearing adjusting nut(s) according to the appropriate procedure.
12. Fill the area between the nut(s) & hub wall with grease, NOT to extend outboard of the nuts.
13. Install any necessary hardware & the hub locks.
14. Install the wheel, using a torque wrench or torque-limiter as described in the TSB below. Re-check torque after 200-500 miles.

See also:
.

Using this seal & bearing driver is one way to remove the '93-96 Bronco-only 4WABS tone ring. Another way is: after hammering the lugs out (but not so far as to damage the tone ring), drop the rotor onto a wood support tall enough to allow the hub to slide down and out of the tone ring. DO NOT allow the thin outer lip of the hub to impact any hard surface. Pad the pavement with plywood or several layers of cardboard, as this page shows:

Rotor Installation
1. Set the rotor onto the back of the hub.
2. Drive the lug studs (Dorman 610-219) through both.
3. If applicable ('93-96 Bronco only), install the tone ring.
4. Drop the packed inner wheel bearing into its race in the back of the hub, & apply a ring of grease to its visible surface.
5. Install the appropriate inner wheel seal.
6. Flip the assembly & apply a heavy ring of grease to the area between the bearing races inside the hub.
7. Slip the hub onto the spindle, keeping as much grease as possible inside.
8. Fill as much of the hub as possible with grease, up to the outer wheel bearing race.
9. Slip the packed outer bearing onto the spindle, centering the hub around it so it goes in all the way.
10. Leaving any excess grease in place, install the wheel bearing adjusting nut(s) according to the appropriate procedure.
11. Fill the area between the nut(s) & hub wall with grease, NOT to extend outboard of the nuts.
12. Install any necessary hardware & the hub locks.

'80-93 Front Rotor MotorCraft BRR8, hub/rotor assembly Raybestos 66439R
'79-85 Front Pads Motorcraft BR43B
'86-93 Front Pads Motorcraft BR41B
'94-96 Front Pads Motorcraft BR46
'94-96 Front Rotor Motorcraft BRR56, hub/rotor/tone-ring assembly Raybestos 66441R
On '87-early '88 with factory (flange-style) manual hub locks, the hub-rotor is one piece (MotorCraft BRR215?).

Ford 8.8" axle uses 10 lug studs D6AZ-1107-A ('83-00)
Dana 44IFS uses 10 lug studs D6TZ-1107-A ('83-96)
Ford TIB axle uses 10 lug studs F4UZ-1107-A ('94-96)

Front ABS Sensors Motorcraft BRAB30 on '93-96 Broncos only. Clean all metal filings off to improve signal quality.

To remove the spindle, remove the sensor bolt (6-point 8mm-5/16") and the shield bolt (12-point 6mm, but a 12-point 7/32" can be hammered onto it) from inside the steering knuckle. Once the spindle is off, drive the sensor inboard HAMMERING ONLY on the tube around the bolt. Clean both sensor bores thoroughly with a steel bore brush, and clean the sensor & its bolt tube. Apply anti-seize lube to both bores before reinstalling the sensor, and to the spindle bore of the steering knuckle.

Whether the spindle was removed or not; clean its sealing surfaces thoroughly.

The bolt for this shield has an extremely hard-to-find 6mm 12-point head, so most people (including me) don't carry a socket to fit it. Since I've abandoned my idea to add 4WABS TC to my truck, I didn't need the sensor or the shield, so I just knocked it off with a hammer. If I need to reinstall it, I'll use a bolt with a 6-point head.

Turns out a more-common 12-point 7/32" socket can be hammered onto this bolt head.

Spindle Differences '80-96

In addition to the ~'92 loss of a spindle stud (leaving 5) and the addition of 2 notches in the spindle flange for the (Bronco only) 4WABS sensor used on '93-96 Broncos only, the spindle was also redesigned in ~'95 to match the revised 2-piece inner wheel seal. F150 spindle flanges were not notched or drilled for the 4WABS sensor, but are otherwise identical to the corresponding Bronco's.

I suspect the slot was lengthened around '86 for the self-locking spindle nut, but I haven't confirmed that.

'87-early '88 spindles for manual (top-hat flange-style) hub locks are significantly shorter overall, take a 1-piece hub/rotor, and have 6 stud holes.

To remove stuck spindles with a slide hammer, use Sunex 10208, Lisle 22200, KD 3910, or OTC 4543-6 or 7502.
To prevent them from sticking again, clean ALL the rust from the bores & stickouts, and apply anti-seize lube.

Early D-head 3/8" Spicer 363261 spindle stud (6 per spindle) and Spicer 357041 3/8" nut.

See also:
. . . . .

D44IFS Bills of Material (Dana Part Numbers):

610062-1 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-2 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-3 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-4 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-5 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-6 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-7 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-8 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-9 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-10 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-11 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-12 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-13 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-14 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-15 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-16 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-17 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-18 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-19 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610063-1 Standard 3.54 80 3/4-ton
610063-2 Standard 3.54 80 3/4-ton
610063-3 Trac Lok 3.54 80 3/4-ton
610063-4 Trac Lok 3.54 80 3/4-ton
610063-5 Standard 4.09 80 3/4-ton
610063-6 Standard 3.54 80 3/4-ton
610146-1 Standard 3.00 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-2 Trac Lok 3.00 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-3 Standard 3.54 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-4 Trac Lok 3.54 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-5 Standard 3.00 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-6 Standard 3.54 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-7 Standard 3.54 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-8 Standard 4.09 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-9 Trac Lok 3.54 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610185-1 Standard 3.00 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-2 Standard 3.00 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-3 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-4 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-5 Trac Lok 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-6 Trac Lok 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-7 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-8 Standard 3.00 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-9 Standard 3.00 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-10 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-11 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-12 Trac Lok 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-13 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-14 Standard 3.07 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-15 Standard 3.07 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-16 Trac Lok 3.54 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-17 Standard 3.54 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-18 Standard 3.54 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610166-1 Standard 3.50 81.5 & 82 F150 SnowPlow
610166-2 Standard 3.50 81.5 & 82 F150 SnowPlow
610166-3 Trac Lok 3.00 81.5 & 82 F150 SnowPlow
610168-1 Standard 3.00 83 1/2-ton
610168-2 Standard 3.50 83 1/2-ton
610168-3 Trac Lok 3.50 83 1/2-ton
610168-4 Standard 3.00 83 1/2-ton
610168-5 Standard 3.00 83 1/2-ton
610168-6 Standard 3.50 83 1/2-ton
610168-7 Standard 3.50 83 1/2-ton
610168-8 Trac Lok 3.50 83 1/2-ton
610168-9 Standard 3.07 83 1/2-ton
610168-10 Standard 3.07 83 1/2-ton
610168-11 Trac Lok 3.54 83 1/2-ton
610168-12 Standard 3.54 83 1/2-ton
610168-13 Standard 3.54 83 1/2-ton
610167-2 Standard 3.50 83 F150 SnowPlow
610167-4 Standard 3.54 83 F150 SnowPlow
610169-1 Standard 3.00 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-2 Standard 3.54 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-3 Standard 3.00 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-4 Standard 3.54 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-5 Standard 3.54 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-6 Standard 4.09 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-7 Trac Lok 3.54 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610178-1 Standard 3.07 84 1/2-ton
610178-2 Standard 3.07 84 1/2-ton
610178-3 Trac Lok 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610178-4 Standard 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610178-5 Standard 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610178-9 Standard 3.07 84 1/2-ton
610178-10 Standard 3.07 84 1/2-ton
610178-11 Trac Lok 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610178-12 Trac Lok 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610178-13 Trac Lok 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610177-1 Standard 3.54 84 F150 SnowPlow
610177-4 Standard 3.54 84 F150 SnowPlow
610179-1 Standard 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-2 Standard 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-3 Standard 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-4 Standard 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-5 Standard 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-6 Standard 4.09 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-7 Trac Lok 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-8 Trac Lok 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610198-1 Standard 3.07 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-2 Standard 3.07 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-3 Trac Lok 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-4 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-5 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-9 Standard 3.07 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-10 Standard 3.07 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-11 Trac Lok 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-12 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-13 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-14 Standard 3.50 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-15 Standard 3.50 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-16 Trac Lok 3.50 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-17 Standard 4.09 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-18 Trac Lok 4.09 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610197-1 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 F150 SnowPlow
610197-4 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 F150 SnowPlow
610197-5 Standard 3.50 84.5 & 85 F150 SnowPlow
610199-1 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-2 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-3 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-4 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-5 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-6 Standard 4.09 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-7 Trac Lok 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-8 Standard 4.09 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-9 Trac Lok 4.09 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-10 Trac Lok 4.09 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610229-1 Standard 3.54 85 3/4-ton
610229-2 Standard 3.54 85 3/4-ton
610229-3 Standard 3.54 85 3/4-ton
610229-4 Trac Lok 3.54 85 3/4-ton
610229-5 Standard 4.09 85 3/4-ton
610229-6 Trac Lok 4.09 85 3/4-ton
610231-1 Standard 3.54 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610231-2 Standard 3.54 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610231-3 Standard 4.09 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610231-4 Trac Lok 3.54 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610231-5 Standard 4.09 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610231-6 Trac Lok 4.09 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610241-1 Standard 3.07 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-2 Trac Lok 3.54 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-3 Standard 3.54 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-4 Standard 3.50 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-5 Trac Lok 3.50 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-6 Standard 4.09 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-7 Trac Lok 4.09 85.5 1/2-ton
610242-1 Standard 3.54 85.5 F150 SnowPlow
610242-2 Standard 3.50 85.5 F150 SnowPlow
610243-1 Standard 3.54 88.5 3/4-ton
610243-2 Standard 3.54 88.5 3/4-ton
610243-3 Standard 4.09 88.5 3/4-ton
610243-4 Trac Lok 3.54 88.5 3/4-ton
610243-5 Standard 4.09 88.5 3/4-ton
610243-6 Trac Lok 4.09 88.5 3/4-ton
610261-1 Standard 3.07 86 1/2-ton
610261-2 Standard 3.54 86 1/2-ton
610261-3 Standard 3.50 86 1/2-ton
610262-1 Standard 3.07 86 1/2-ton
610262-2 Trac Lok 3.54 86 1/2-ton
610262-3 Standard 3.54 86 1/2-ton
610262-4 Standard 3.50 86 1/2-ton
610262-5 Trac Lok 3.50 86 1/2-ton
610262-6 Standard 4.09 86 1/2-ton
610262-7 Trac Lok 4.09 86 1/2-ton
610263-1 Standard 3.54 86 F150 SnowPlow
610263-2 Standard 3.50 86 F150 SnowPlow
610264-1 Standard 3.54 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610264-2 Standard 3.54 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610264-3 Standard 4.09 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610264-4 Trac Lok 3.54 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610264-5 Standard 4.09 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610264-6 Trac Lok 4.09 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610267-1 Standard 3.07 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610267-2 Trac Lok 3.54 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610267-3 Standard 3.54 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610267-4 Standard 3.50 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610267-6 Standard 4.09 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610268-1 Standard 3.07 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610268-2 Standard 3.54 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610266-1 Standard 3.54 87 & 88 SnowPlow
610266-2 Standard 3.50 87 & 88 SnowPlow
610306-1 Standard 3.54 88 3/4-ton
610306-2 Standard 4.09 88 3/4-ton
610309-1 Standard 3.07 88.5 F150 SnowPlow
610309-2 Trac Lok 3.54 88.5 F150 SnowPlow
610309-3 Standard 3.54 88.5 F150 SnowPlow
610309-4 Standard 4.09 88.5 F150 SnowPlow
610311-1 Standard 3.54 88.5 - 91 1/2-ton
610311-2 Standard 4.09 88.5 - 91 1/2-ton
610310-1 Standard 3.07 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610310-2 Standard 3.54 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610335-1 Standard 3.07 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610335-2 Trac Lok 3.54 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610335-3 Standard 3.54 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610335-4 Standard 4.09 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610407-1 Standard 3.07 92.5 1/2-ton
610407-3 Standard 3.54 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-1 Standard 3.07 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-3 Standard 3.54 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-4 Standard 4.09 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-6 Trac Lok 3.54 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-7 Standard 3.07 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-9 Standard 3.54 92.5 1/2-ton
610411-1 Standard 3.07 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610411-2 Trac Lok 3.54 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610411-3 Standard 3.54 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610411-4 Standard 4.09 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610411-7 Standard 3.07 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610411-8 Standard 3.54 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610414-1 Standard 3.07 93 & 93.5 F150
610414-3 Standard 3.54 93 & 93.5 F150
610414-4 Standard 4.09 93 & 93.5 F150
610414-6 Trac Lok 3.54 93 & 93.5 F150
610414-7 Standard 3.07 93 & 93.5 F150
610414-9 Standard 3.54 93 & 93.5 F150
610443-3 Standard 3.54 94 - 96 Bronco
610443-9 Standard 3.54 94 - 96 Bronco
610447-3 Standard 3.54 94 - 96 Bronco
610447-9 Standard 3.54 94 - 96 Bronco
610447-10 Standard 3.54 94 - 96 Bronco
610444-1 Standard 3.07 94 F150
610444-2 Standard 3.31 94 F150
610444-3 Standard 3.54 94 F150
610444-4 Standard 4.09 94 F150
610444-5 Trac Lok 3.31 94 F150
610444-6 Trac Lok 3.54 94 F150
610444-7 Standard 3.07 94 F150
610444-8 Standard 3.31 94 F150
610444-9 Standard 3.54 94 F150
610446-1 Standard 3.07 95 & 96 F150
610446-2 Standard 3.31 95 & 96 F150
610446-3 Standard 3.54 95 & 96 F150
610446-5 Trac Lok 3.31 95 & 96 F150
610446-6 Trac Lok 3.54 95 & 96 F150
610446-10 Standard 3.07 95 & 96 F150
610446-11 Standard 3.31 95 & 96 F150
610446-12 Standard 3.54 95 & 96 F150
610608-1 Standard 3.54 96.5 Bronco
610608-2 Standard 3.54 96.5 Bronco
610607-1 Standard 3.07 96.5 F150
610607-2 Standard 3.31 96.5 F150
610607-3 Standard 3.54 96.5 F150
610607-4 Standard 4.09 96.5 F150
610607-5 Trac Lok 3.31 96.5 F150
610607-6 Trac Lok 3.54 96.5 F150
610607-7 Standard 3.07 96.5 F150
610607-8 Standard 3.31 96.5 F150
610607-9 Standard 3.54 96.5 F150

Differences in steering knuckles, spindles, & hubs. Both sets shown are from '93 trucks.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

See also:
. . . . .

For more detailed info, read this Dana PDF:
http://www2.dana.com/pdf/X510-9.pdf

D44IFS Bills of Material (Dana Part Numbers):

610062-1 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-2 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-3 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-4 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-5 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-6 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-7 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-8 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-9 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-10 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-11 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-12 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-13 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-14 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-15 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-16 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-17 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-18 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-19 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610063-1 Standard 3.54 80 3/4-ton
610063-2 Standard 3.54 80 3/4-ton
610063-3 Trac Lok 3.54 80 3/4-ton
610063-4 Trac Lok 3.54 80 3/4-ton
610063-5 Standard 4.09 80 3/4-ton
610063-6 Standard 3.54 80 3/4-ton
610146-1 Standard 3.00 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-2 Trac Lok 3.00 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-3 Standard 3.54 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-4 Trac Lok 3.54 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-5 Standard 3.00 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-6 Standard 3.54 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-7 Standard 3.54 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-8 Standard 4.09 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-9 Trac Lok 3.54 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610185-1 Standard 3.00 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-2 Standard 3.00 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-3 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-4 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-5 Trac Lok 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-6 Trac Lok 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-7 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-8 Standard 3.00 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-9 Standard 3.00 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-10 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-11 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-12 Trac Lok 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-13 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-14 Standard 3.07 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-15 Standard 3.07 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-16 Trac Lok 3.54 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-17 Standard 3.54 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-18 Standard 3.54 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610166-1 Standard 3.50 81.5 & 82 F150 SnowPlow
610166-2 Standard 3.50 81.5 & 82 F150 SnowPlow
610166-3 Trac Lok 3.00 81.5 & 82 F150 SnowPlow
610168-1 Standard 3.00 83 1/2-ton
610168-2 Standard 3.50 83 1/2-ton
610168-3 Trac Lok 3.50 83 1/2-ton
610168-4 Standard 3.00 83 1/2-ton
610168-5 Standard 3.00 83 1/2-ton
610168-6 Standard 3.50 83 1/2-ton
610168-7 Standard 3.50 83 1/2-ton
610168-8 Trac Lok 3.50 83 1/2-ton
610168-9 Standard 3.07 83 1/2-ton
610168-10 Standard 3.07 83 1/2-ton
610168-11 Trac Lok 3.54 83 1/2-ton
610168-12 Standard 3.54 83 1/2-ton
610168-13 Standard 3.54 83 1/2-ton
610167-2 Standard 3.50 83 F150 SnowPlow
610167-4 Standard 3.54 83 F150 SnowPlow
610169-1 Standard 3.00 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-2 Standard 3.54 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-3 Standard 3.00 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-4 Standard 3.54 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-5 Standard 3.54 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-6 Standard 4.09 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-7 Trac Lok 3.54 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610178-1 Standard 3.07 84 1/2-ton
610178-2 Standard 3.07 84 1/2-ton
610178-3 Trac Lok 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610178-4 Standard 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610178-5 Standard 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610178-9 Standard 3.07 84 1/2-ton
610178-10 Standard 3.07 84 1/2-ton
610178-11 Trac Lok 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610178-12 Trac Lok 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610178-13 Trac Lok 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610177-1 Standard 3.54 84 F150 SnowPlow
610177-4 Standard 3.54 84 F150 SnowPlow
610179-1 Standard 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-2 Standard 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-3 Standard 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-4 Standard 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-5 Standard 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-6 Standard 4.09 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-7 Trac Lok 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-8 Trac Lok 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610198-1 Standard 3.07 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-2 Standard 3.07 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-3 Trac Lok 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-4 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-5 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-9 Standard 3.07 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-10 Standard 3.07 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-11 Trac Lok 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-12 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-13 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-14 Standard 3.50 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-15 Standard 3.50 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-16 Trac Lok 3.50 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-17 Standard 4.09 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-18 Trac Lok 4.09 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610197-1 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 F150 SnowPlow
610197-4 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 F150 SnowPlow
610197-5 Standard 3.50 84.5 & 85 F150 SnowPlow
610199-1 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-2 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-3 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-4 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-5 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-6 Standard 4.09 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-7 Trac Lok 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-8 Standard 4.09 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-9 Trac Lok 4.09 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-10 Trac Lok 4.09 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610229-1 Standard 3.54 85 3/4-ton
610229-2 Standard 3.54 85 3/4-ton
610229-3 Standard 3.54 85 3/4-ton
610229-4 Trac Lok 3.54 85 3/4-ton
610229-5 Standard 4.09 85 3/4-ton
610229-6 Trac Lok 4.09 85 3/4-ton
610231-1 Standard 3.54 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610231-2 Standard 3.54 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610231-3 Standard 4.09 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610231-4 Trac Lok 3.54 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610231-5 Standard 4.09 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610231-6 Trac Lok 4.09 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610241-1 Standard 3.07 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-2 Trac Lok 3.54 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-3 Standard 3.54 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-4 Standard 3.50 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-5 Trac Lok 3.50 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-6 Standard 4.09 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-7 Trac Lok 4.09 85.5 1/2-ton
610242-1 Standard 3.54 85.5 F150 SnowPlow
610242-2 Standard 3.50 85.5 F150 SnowPlow
610243-1 Standard 3.54 88.5 3/4-ton
610243-2 Standard 3.54 88.5 3/4-ton
610243-3 Standard 4.09 88.5 3/4-ton
610243-4 Trac Lok 3.54 88.5 3/4-ton
610243-5 Standard 4.09 88.5 3/4-ton
610243-6 Trac Lok 4.09 88.5 3/4-ton
610261-1 Standard 3.07 86 1/2-ton
610261-2 Standard 3.54 86 1/2-ton
610261-3 Standard 3.50 86 1/2-ton
610262-1 Standard 3.07 86 1/2-ton
610262-2 Trac Lok 3.54 86 1/2-ton
610262-3 Standard 3.54 86 1/2-ton
610262-4 Standard 3.50 86 1/2-ton
610262-5 Trac Lok 3.50 86 1/2-ton
610262-6 Standard 4.09 86 1/2-ton
610262-7 Trac Lok 4.09 86 1/2-ton
610263-1 Standard 3.54 86 F150 SnowPlow
610263-2 Standard 3.50 86 F150 SnowPlow
610264-1 Standard 3.54 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610264-2 Standard 3.54 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610264-3 Standard 4.09 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610264-4 Trac Lok 3.54 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610264-5 Standard 4.09 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610264-6 Trac Lok 4.09 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610267-1 Standard 3.07 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610267-2 Trac Lok 3.54 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610267-3 Standard 3.54 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610267-4 Standard 3.50 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610267-6 Standard 4.09 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610268-1 Standard 3.07 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610268-2 Standard 3.54 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610266-1 Standard 3.54 87 & 88 SnowPlow
610266-2 Standard 3.50 87 & 88 SnowPlow
610306-1 Standard 3.54 88 3/4-ton
610306-2 Standard 4.09 88 3/4-ton
610309-1 Standard 3.07 88.5 F150 SnowPlow
610309-2 Trac Lok 3.54 88.5 F150 SnowPlow
610309-3 Standard 3.54 88.5 F150 SnowPlow
610309-4 Standard 4.09 88.5 F150 SnowPlow
610311-1 Standard 3.54 88.5 - 91 1/2-ton
610311-2 Standard 4.09 88.5 - 91 1/2-ton
610310-1 Standard 3.07 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610310-2 Standard 3.54 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610335-1 Standard 3.07 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610335-2 Trac Lok 3.54 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610335-3 Standard 3.54 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610335-4 Standard 4.09 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610407-1 Standard 3.07 92.5 1/2-ton
610407-3 Standard 3.54 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-1 Standard 3.07 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-3 Standard 3.54 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-4 Standard 4.09 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-6 Trac Lok 3.54 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-7 Standard 3.07 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-9 Standard 3.54 92.5 1/2-ton
610411-1 Standard 3.07 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610411-2 Trac Lok 3.54 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610411-3 Standard 3.54 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610411-4 Standard 4.09 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610411-7 Standard 3.07 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610411-8 Standard 3.54 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610414-1 Standard 3.07 93 & 93.5 F150
610414-3 Standard 3.54 93 & 93.5 F150
610414-4 Standard 4.09 93 & 93.5 F150
610414-6 Trac Lok 3.54 93 & 93.5 F150
610414-7 Standard 3.07 93 & 93.5 F150
610414-9 Standard 3.54 93 & 93.5 F150
610443-3 Standard 3.54 94 - 96 Bronco
610443-9 Standard 3.54 94 - 96 Bronco
610447-3 Standard 3.54 94 - 96 Bronco
610447-9 Standard 3.54 94 - 96 Bronco
610447-10 Standard 3.54 94 - 96 Bronco
610444-1 Standard 3.07 94 F150
610444-2 Standard 3.31 94 F150
610444-3 Standard 3.54 94 F150
610444-4 Standard 4.09 94 F150
610444-5 Trac Lok 3.31 94 F150
610444-6 Trac Lok 3.54 94 F150
610444-7 Standard 3.07 94 F150
610444-8 Standard 3.31 94 F150
610444-9 Standard 3.54 94 F150
610446-1 Standard 3.07 95 & 96 F150
610446-2 Standard 3.31 95 & 96 F150
610446-3 Standard 3.54 95 & 96 F150
610446-5 Trac Lok 3.31 95 & 96 F150
610446-6 Trac Lok 3.54 95 & 96 F150
610446-10 Standard 3.07 95 & 96 F150
610446-11 Standard 3.31 95 & 96 F150
610446-12 Standard 3.54 95 & 96 F150
610608-1 Standard 3.54 96.5 Bronco
610608-2 Standard 3.54 96.5 Bronco
610607-1 Standard 3.07 96.5 F150
610607-2 Standard 3.31 96.5 F150
610607-3 Standard 3.54 96.5 F150
610607-4 Standard 4.09 96.5 F150
610607-5 Trac Lok 3.31 96.5 F150
610607-6 Trac Lok 3.54 96.5 F150
610607-7 Standard 3.07 96.5 F150
610607-8 Standard 3.31 96.5 F150
610607-9 Standard 3.54 96.5 F150

Wheel Bearings Dry
Packing the hub with grease will prevent this, even when fording deep water.



havack's '93 XLT Bronco

2-piece Inner Wheel Seal (Rolling Diaphragm Seal) used on ~5/95~96 1/2-ton 4WDs.

The pair is MotorCraft BRS23 or F5TZ-1S190-AA. The original-design rubber seal is MotorCraft BRS78; the revised rubber seal is BRS86; the steel seal is MotorCraft BRS85
#6&7 in this diagram:


ERROR: It was NOT used on '93-94s, and can't be used on them without changing the spindle AND hub.

The black seal slips onto the spindle. The side visible in this pic goes OUTboard against the smooth surface of the metal seal; the smaller ring slips over the spindle's base shoulder. APPLY GREASE to the larger lip or the wheel will squeak. Either wheel bearing grease, or silicone grease (preferred), or PTFE (teflon).

See also:

Inner Wheel Seals for rolling-diaphragm hubs
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Motorcraft BRS23
Timken 710430
National 710430

Timken 710430 Inner Wheel Seal for 5/95-96 4WD 1/2-ton, and possibly some later heavier trucks

Before installing the inner wheel seal, add a ring of grease to keep the bearing full. This is correct disk-brake-rated high-temperature EP grease.

Front tone ring E7TZ2B409B (F37A-2C182-AC)

5/95-96 hub, '93-96 tone ring E7TZ2B409B (F37A-2C182-AC), & 5/95-96 inner wheel seal

Take a few extra moments to remove any accumuated grime and then brush the sealing surface so the new seal will last.

Note that this steering knuckle & shield (Left F4TZ-2K005-B, Right F4TZ-2K004-B) are specific to the '94-up floating caliper design, as indicated by the caliper bolt ear at the far R. Caliper bolt torque 30-36 N-m (22-27 lb-ft). Also note the spindle is NOT designed for the upgraded double-lip seal introduced 5/95.

It's worth the effort to clean off any accumulated grime, particularly from the base of the spindle where the inner wheel seal fits.

While the rotor is off the hub, make sure both sides of the flange are thoroughly clean & flat to prevent warping the rotors. It doesn't take much to ruin them.



For drums, only the outboard surface of the axle flange needs to be cleaned. But both sides of the drum must be cleaned.

'96 Bronco front hub parts
Front tone ring E7TZ2B409B (F37A-2C182-AC)

This is the grease I prefer for wheel bearings & general chassis use. I get it at the local O'Reilly store.

Pack bearings, then fill void between bearings with Castrol Pyroplex Blue, Mystick, or some other high-film-strength EP grease rated for disk brakes; NOT cheap grease as shown. Any air in this area will contract during deep fording, causing water to be sucked past the seals into the grease & bearings. Filling with grease prevents this.

.

DO NOT FILL THE HUB LOCKS. They need air space inside for their mechanisms to move, so they should only have a light coat of grease. Most modern hub locks should be merely dunked in ATF before installation. Read their included instructions.

Wheel Bearing Nut adjustments. The L pane is the common 3-piece system, which requires either of these spanners:



The R pane is the rare 1-piece self-locking nut:



The text below describes the later hex nut.

For '94-96 with the single large hex nut (3-screw auto hub lock caps OR any manual hub locks), follow this procedure:

While rotating front disc brake hub and rotor, tighten until snug to seat wheel bearings. Back nut off 90 degrees (1/4 Turn). Tighten to 1.8 N-m (16 Lb-In), insert locking key, thrust washers, and C-clip. Refer to these:

The L spanner is stronger & less likely to slip off a nut, but it won't work on a self-locking nut. Both are 2-3/8" round spanner sockets with 4 square teeth. Later auto hub locks use a 2-3/8" rounded hex socket.

Rare self-locking hub nut used in the late '80s. Its locking tooth in the center often gets bent inward by improper installation or removal. Make sure it protrudes enough to fully engage the slot on the spindle. If not, it will work its way loose.

When installing or removing this nut, make sure the outer cage does NOT spin; the tooth in the center must remain in the spindle's groove.

This explains how to re-install it:

This '95 Bronco was factory-equipped with 3-screw auto hub locks, but a previous owner swapped in these light-duty Warn manuals. The current owner thought the wheel bearings were going bad, but I found the nut key had fallen out of place, fouling into the rotating hub lock body, and allowing the bearing adjusting nut to back off. I temporarily straightened the key & reinstalled it (after changing the bearings & rotor anyway), but he ordered the older-style nuts & installed them himself later.

Caliper Pin Installation
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

1. Install the caliper on the spindle, making sure the mounting surfaces are free of dirt and lubricate the caliper grooves (not the spindle/knuckle) with Disc Brake Caliper Slide Grease D7AZ19590A (XG3) or equivalent.
2. Position pin with the pin retention tabs oriented adjacent to the spindle groove (NOT the caliper).
3. Tap the pin on the outboard end with a hammer. Continue tapping the pin inward until the retention tabs on the sides of the pin contact the spindle face. Repeat procedure for the lower pin. CAUTION: During the installation procedure do not allow the tabs of the caliper pin to be tapped too far into the spindle groove. If this happens it will be necessary to tap the other end of the caliper pin until the tabs snap into place. The tabs on each end of the caliper pin MUST be free to catch on the spindle flanks.
4. If removed, install the brake hose to the caliper and bleed the brakes.
5. Install the wheel and tire assembly. Tighten the lugnuts to specification.
6. Lower the vehicle, check the brake fluid level and fill as necessary. Pump brake pedal and check brakes for proper operation.

See also:
.

Install Caliper Slide Clips (Ford F2TZ2C150A; MC BRCK5030) with locking tabs facing the steering knuckle. They should also have a light coat of brake grease where they touch the caliper, and those surfaces should be otherwise clean.

.

The inner pad anti-rattle clip is D6TZ2B164C. ACDelco set of 6 clips

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

TSB 98-5A-13 NEW SPECIFICATION - Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound to be used for Disc Brake Caliper Slides

Publication Date: MARCH 18, 1998

FORD:
1984-1994 TEMPO
1984-1996 MUSTANG, THUNDERBIRD
1985-1996 CROWN VICTORIA, ESCORT
1986-1996 TAURUS
1989-1996 PROBE
1994-1996 ASPIRE
1995-1996 CONTOUR

LINCOLN-MERCURY:
1982-1996 CONTINENTAL
1984-1994 TOPAZ
1984-1996 COUGAR
1985-1996 GRAND MARQUIS
1986-1996 SABLE, TOWN CAR
1987-1989 TRACER
1991-1994 CAPRI
1991-1996 TRACER
1993-1996 MARK VIII
1995-1996 MYSTIQUE

LIGHT TRUCK:
1983-1996 RANGER
1986-1996 AEROSTAR
1990-1996 BRONCO, ECONOLINE, F SUPER DUTY, F-150-350 SERIES
1991-1996 EXPLORER
1993-1996 VILLAGER
1995-1996 WINDSTAR
MEDIUM/HEAVY TRUCK: 1990-1991 C SERIES
1990-1996 F & B SERIES

ISSUE: The use of petroleum-based grease as a lubricant in servicing disc brakes is no longer acceptable because it may be incompatible with the rubber material used in the disc brake system. If petroleum-based grease is used to lubricate any part of the disc brake system, it could cause rubber parts to swell if lubricant contacts the rubber material.

ACTION: Refer to the following Servicing Procedures for details.

DISC BRAKE SERVICING
CAUTION: DO NOT USE PETROLEUM-BASED SERVICE GREASE (SUCH AS FORD DISC BRAKE CALIPER SLIDE GREASE D7AZ-19590-A) TO LUBRICATE DISC BRAKE CALIPER SLIDE PINS OR RUBBER DUST BOOTS. PETROLEUM-BASED GREASE MAY CAUSE EPDM RUBBER TO SWELL.

When servicing any disc brakes, lubricate necessary components by applying Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound (D7AZ-19A331-A (Motorcraft WA-10)) or an equivalent silicone compound meeting Ford Specification ESE-M1C171-A. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual for specific service details.

DRUM BRAKE SERVICING
When servicing drum brakes, apply Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound (D7AZ-19A331-A (Motorcraft WA-10)) or an equivalent silicone compound meeting Ford Specification ESE-M1C171-A to the contact points between the brake shoes and the drum backing plates for lubrication.

NOTE: DISC BRAKE CALIPER SLIDE GREASE D7AZ-19590-A SHOULD NO LONGER BE USED FOR DISC BRAKE CALIPER SLIDE LUBRICATION.

OTHER SERVICE APPLICATIONS
Existing inventory of D7AZ-19590-A may be used for all other Service Manual procedures. Once material is exhausted, all vehicle procedures specifying Disc Brake Caliper Slide Grease (D7AZ-19590-A) should use Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound (D7AZ-19A331-A).

PART NUMBER : PART NAME
D7AZ-19A331-A : Silicone Brake Caliper Grease And Dielectric Compound



OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
SUPERSEDES: 95-21-02

'83 Dana44IFS Brake caliper keys, slide springs, & bolts. Used from the late 70s until ~'84 on 2 & 4WD.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

TSB 98-5A-13 NEW SPECIFICATION - Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound to be used for Disc Brake Caliper Slides

Publication Date: MARCH 18, 1998

FORD:
1984-1994 TEMPO
1984-1996 MUSTANG, THUNDERBIRD
1985-1996 CROWN VICTORIA, ESCORT
1986-1996 TAURUS
1989-1996 PROBE
1994-1996 ASPIRE
1995-1996 CONTOUR

LINCOLN-MERCURY:
1982-1996 CONTINENTAL
1984-1994 TOPAZ
1984-1996 COUGAR
1985-1996 GRAND MARQUIS
1986-1996 SABLE, TOWN CAR
1987-1989 TRACER
1991-1994 CAPRI
1991-1996 TRACER
1993-1996 MARK VIII
1995-1996 MYSTIQUE

LIGHT TRUCK:
1983-1996 RANGER
1986-1996 AEROSTAR
1990-1996 BRONCO, ECONOLINE, F SUPER DUTY, F-150-350 SERIES
1991-1996 EXPLORER
1993-1996 VILLAGER
1995-1996 WINDSTAR
MEDIUM/HEAVY TRUCK: 1990-1991 C SERIES
1990-1996 F & B SERIES

ISSUE: The use of petroleum-based grease as a lubricant in servicing disc brakes is no longer acceptable because it may be incompatible with the rubber material used in the disc brake system. If petroleum-based grease is used to lubricate any part of the disc brake system, it could cause rubber parts to swell if lubricant contacts the rubber material.

ACTION: Refer to the following Servicing Procedures for details.

DISC BRAKE SERVICING
CAUTION: DO NOT USE PETROLEUM-BASED SERVICE GREASE (SUCH AS FORD DISC BRAKE CALIPER SLIDE GREASE D7AZ-19590-A) TO LUBRICATE DISC BRAKE CALIPER SLIDE PINS OR RUBBER DUST BOOTS. PETROLEUM-BASED GREASE MAY CAUSE EPDM RUBBER TO SWELL.

When servicing any disc brakes, lubricate necessary components by applying Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound (D7AZ-19A331-A (Motorcraft WA-10)) or an equivalent silicone compound meeting Ford Specification ESE-M1C171-A. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual for specific service details.

DRUM BRAKE SERVICING
When servicing drum brakes, apply Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound (D7AZ-19A331-A (Motorcraft WA-10)) or an equivalent silicone compound meeting Ford Specification ESE-M1C171-A to the contact points between the brake shoes and the drum backing plates for lubrication.

NOTE: DISC BRAKE CALIPER SLIDE GREASE D7AZ-19590-A SHOULD NO LONGER BE USED FOR DISC BRAKE CALIPER SLIDE LUBRICATION.

OTHER SERVICE APPLICATIONS
Existing inventory of D7AZ-19590-A may be used for all other Service Manual procedures. Once material is exhausted, all vehicle procedures specifying Disc Brake Caliper Slide Grease (D7AZ-19590-A) should use Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound (D7AZ-19A331-A).

PART NUMBER : PART NAME
D7AZ-19A331-A : Silicone Brake Caliper Grease And Dielectric Compound



OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
SUPERSEDES: 95-21-02

Always clean the surfaces that touch the pad backing plates (& all other points of metal-to-metal contact) before applying brake grease to them. Of course, the caliper & pad SLIDES are far more-critical than the spot where the brush is in this photo, but it's hard to do much with 1 hand working the camera. Drum brakes need even more cleaning.

.

Brake Greases

After cleaning...

.

...apply a light coat of brake grease to each point of contact. DO NOT apply grease to the friction material of the pads or shoes, or to the nuts/bolts/threads.



For front brakes, these are ALL on the caliper:
- where it touches each pad
- where it slides against the steering knuckle
- any slide pins or keys & keyways.

For rear brakes, it's more complicated & precise:
- on every point that the steel frame of the shoe touches the backing plate or anything else (but NOT on the friction material or drum)
- inside the autoadjuster and in each end
- where the autoadjuster cable touches the guide
- on the e-brake lever & its pivot pin
- on the equalizer bar where the spring & guide slide
- on the pushrods inside the dust boots where they touch the slave cylinder's pistons.



The CRC grease is the only one that's NOT silicone. It can be purchased in many colors so that shops can tell if they were the last ones to work on your brakes. I buy black for personal use.

Before buying craptasmic brakes or other common parts, check for coupons & service offers from Ford.

See also:

After cleaning to the bare metal, brake grease goes at each white pointer, including inside each slide pin boot. DO NOT apply grease to any location in a quantity that could contaminate the friction surfaces. A thin film is sufficient.

. .

First, clean the rust & dirt off the wheel mounting surfaces.



Then torque the lug nuts to 100 lb-ft, and retorque after 100 miles to fully seat lug studs. BEFORE DRIVING, pump the brake pedal to seat the pads against the rotors, and recheck the fluid level in the master cylinder.

These trucks are notorious for warping rotors, so clean the wheel mounting surfaces before torquing the lug nuts. The best tool is 3M 07547 or 21758 (no apparent difference) or one of the many copies (OTC 8342, OEM 25742, Hub Buddy 37330 or Hub Buddy 1340M, Counteract SBCT13...).

.

The rear axle flanges, and the inner & outer surfaces of the brake drums are equally important to reduce wheel runout.

Then torque the lug nuts to 100 lb-ft, and retorque after 500 miles to fully seat lug studs. BEFORE DRIVING, pump the brake pedal to seat the pads against the rotors, and recheck the fluid level in the master cylinder.

Ford 8.8" axle uses 10 lug studs D6AZ-1107-A ('83-00)
Dana 44IFS uses 10 lug studs D6TZ-1107-A ('83-96)
Ford TIB axle uses 10 lug studs F4UZ-1107-A ('94-96)

These trucks are notorious for warping rotors, so clean the wheel mounting surfaces before torquing the lug nuts. The best tool is 3M 07547 or 21758 (no apparent difference) or one of the many copies (OTC 8342, OEM 25742, Hub Buddy 37330 or Hub Buddy 1340M, Counteract SBCT13...).

.

The rear axle flanges, and the inner & outer surfaces of the brake drums are equally important to reduce wheel runout.

Then torque the lug nuts to 100 lb-ft, and retorque after 500 miles to fully seat lug studs. BEFORE DRIVING, pump the brake pedal to seat the pads against the rotors, and recheck the fluid level in the master cylinder.

Ford 8.8" axle uses 10 lug studs D6AZ-1107-A ('83-00)
Dana 44IFS uses 10 lug studs D6TZ-1107-A ('83-96)
Ford TIB axle uses 10 lug studs F4UZ-1107-A ('94-96)

Wheel Mounting Surfaces should be cleaned every time a wheel is removed (including both sides of the drum) to reduce wheel-induced vibrations, and to maintain lug nut torque. This inexpensive cleaner attaches easily to a 1/2-inch power impact driver.

These trucks are notorious for warping rotors, so clean the wheel mounting surfaces before torquing the lug nuts. The best tool is 3M 07547 or 21758 (no apparent difference) or one of the many copies (OTC 8342, OEM 25742, Hub Buddy 37330 or Hub Buddy 1340M, Counteract SBCT13...).

.

The rear axle flanges, and the inner & outer surfaces of the brake drums are equally important to reduce wheel runout.

Then torque the lug nuts to 100 lb-ft, and retorque after 500 miles to fully seat lug studs. BEFORE DRIVING, pump the brake pedal to seat the pads against the rotors, and recheck the fluid level in the master cylinder.

Ford 8.8" axle uses 10 lug studs D6AZ-1107-A ('83-00)
Dana 44IFS uses 10 lug studs D6TZ-1107-A ('83-96)
Ford TIB axle uses 10 lug studs F4UZ-1107-A ('94-96)

This setup worked fine for many years: an '87-96 master cylinder (with the guts of the residual pressure valve removed) & booster, a few inverted flare adapters, the original '83 proportioning valve (E4TZ-2B257-F), a '96 Bronco front axle & floating calipers, and a ~'94 F150 rear axle & brakes.

Brake Splitter Block (E4TZ-2B257-F) from '83 Bronco

removed 2011 working with no leaks; SOLD 2019

Turns out this is NOT actually a "Brake Proportioning Valve" because it has no way to mechanically compare or control the proportion of fluid in any brake lines. It merely compares the pressure through the switch piston.

'87-96 Master Cylinder
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
'87-93 1/2-ton, & '87-96 w/o cruise Motorcraft BRMC63 (F4TZ2140E)
'94-96 w/cruise F4TZ2140FA

2004 - Master Cylinder Piston Assembly & Retainer Screw
2140 - Master Cylinder
2162 - Reservoir Cap
2C161 - Fluid Control Valve Assembly F8UZ-2C161-AA
2L454 - Brake Fluid Reservoir
# - threaded nipple for SCCDS ('94-96 only)


Line ports are 1/2-20 and 7/16-24 inverted flare.

The brake pressure control valve (fluid control valve) regulates the hydraulic pressure in the rear brake system. It is located between the rear brake system's inlet and outlet ports in the main valve. When the brake pedal is applied, the full brake fluid pressure passes through the brake pressure control valve to the rear brake system until the valve's split point is reached. Above its split point, the brake pressure control valve begins to reduce the hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes, creating a balanced braking condition between the front and rear wheels to minimize rear wheel lock-up during hard braking. In case of the front brake system malfunction, the brake master cylinder fluid control valve has a bypass feature, which allows full hydraulic pressure to the rear brake system.
_______________________________________________________________

Reverse-Bleeding Procedure (for air ONLY in the MC, HCU, & lines - not cylinders):
(Note that the entire system can be reverse-bled without opening any slave bleed valves, provided all their fluid ports are oriented to the top.)
1) Remove the cap from the reservoir.
2) Compress the RHR wheel cylinder fully by flipping one rubber boot forward and stabbing a flat screwdriver against the face of the piston beside the pushrod (catching any fluid that spills out of the reservoir); then allow it to slowly extend, making sure the pushrods remain properly-seated in the pistons & shoes. Repeat for the LHR.
3) Compress the RHF caliper piston fully, then the LHF, using a prybar between the outer pad & rotor.
4) Use a squeeze bulb to remove as much fluid as possible from the reservoir, and refill with fresh fluid from a sealed container.
5) Pump up the pedal (keeping fluid in the reservoir) & check for normal pedal feel with the engine idling. If air is still suspected in the system, use the following procedure...

Reverse-Bleeding Procedure for air in the wheel cylinders (as opposed to air only in the lines):
1) Remove the cap from the reservoir & fill it TO THE TOP with fresh fluid from a sealed container.
2) Then remove the pushrods from the RHR slave so the pistons can FULLY extend, drawing as much fluid as possible inside. If necessary, gently press the pedal to force the pistons out.
3) Open the bleeder & let out as much air as possible; then close the bleeder. Top up the reservoir & repeat for the LHR slave.
4) Replace the pushrods so the shoes & springs fully compress the slaves, driving air back to the reservoir. Prepare for fluid to spill out - keep it off the paint.
5) Pull the calipers off, remove the outboard pads, and put the calipers back in-place on the rotors.
6) Pump the pedal to fill them (the rotors SHOULD keep the pistons from shooting out, but check frequently and DON'T shoot the piston out of the caliper), top up the reservoir, and gravity-bleed them through the bleeders.
7) Use a squeeze bulb to remove as much fluid as possible from the reservoir, and fully compress the R caliper, then the L, then reassemble the pads properly.
8 ) Use a squeeze bulb to remove as much fluid as possible from the reservoir, and refill with fresh fluid from a sealed container.
9) Pump up the pedal (keeping fluid in the reservoir) & check for normal pedal feel with the engine idling.
_______________________________________________________________
Hydraulic System Bleeding (Ford RABS procedures)

When any part of the hydraulic system has been disconnected for repair or replacement, air may get into the lines and cause spongy pedal action. This requires the bleeding of the hydraulic system after it has been properly connected to be sure all air is expelled from the brake cylinders and lines. The hydraulic system can be bled with pressure bleeding equipment such as Rotunda Brake Bleeder model 104-00064 or equivalent. Bleed one brake cylinder at a time. On E-150-250-350, F-150-250-350 and '87-92 Bronco vehicles, start the bleeding at the right rear brake wheel cylinder and then at the left rear wheel brake cylinder. After completing, proceed to the Rear Anti-lock Brake (RABS) Valve. Then proceed to bleed the front brakes, starting with the right front brake, and finish bleeding on the left front brake. On F-Super Duty vehicles, start the bleeding at the right rear brake, then the left rear brake. After completing, proceed to bleed the right front brake and then the left front brake. Keep the master cylinder reservoir filled with the specified Ford Heavy Duty Brake Fluid C6AZ-19542-AA or -BA (ESA-M6C25-A) or equivalent. Never use brake fluid that has been drained from the system.

When a brake master cylinder (2140) has been installed, or the brake system emptied or partially emptied, fluid may not flow from the wheel cylinder bleeder screws during normal bleeding. It may be necessary to prime the brake master cylinder using the following procedure:
1. Use a tubing wrench to remove the front brake tube (2264) and the brake master cylinder outlet rear tube from the brake master cylinder.
2. Install short brake tubes in the brake master cylinder and position them so that they curve into the brake master cylinder reservoir, and the ends of the tubes are submerged in brake fluid.
3. Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir (2K478 ) with new Ford High-Performance DOT 3 Brake Fluid C6AZ-19542-AA or -BA or DOT 3 equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M6C25-A.
4. CAUTION: Brake fluid is harmful to painted and plastic surfaces. If brake fluid is spilled onto a painted or plastic surface, immediately wash it with water. Have an assistant pump the brakes until clear, bubble-free fluid flows from both brake tubes.
5. Remove the short brake tubes and reinstall the front brake tube and brake master cylinder outlet rear tube (2B253) on the brake master cylinder.
6. Bleed each brake tube at the brake master cylinder using the following procedure:
- a. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal (2455) 10 times and then hold firm pressure on the brake pedal.
- b. Loosen the rearmost brake tube fittings with a tubing wrench until a stream of brake fluid comes out. Have an assistant maintain pressure on the brake pedal until the brake tube fitting is tightened again.
- c. Repeat this operation until clear, bubble-free fluid comes out from around the tube fitting. Refill the brake master cylinder reservoir as necessary.
- d. Repeat this bleeding operation at the front brake tube fittings.
7. If any of the brake tubes, disc brake calipers (2B120), or rear wheel cylinders have been removed, it may be helpful to prime the system by gravity bleeding. This should be done after the brake master cylinder is primed and bled. To gravity bleed the brake system:
- a. Fill the brake master cylinder with new Heavy-Duty Brake Fluid C6AZ-19542-AA or -BA or DOT 3 equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M6C25-A.
- b. Loosen both of the wheel cylinder bleeder screws and leave them open until clear brake fluid flows. Be sure to check the brake master cylinder reservoir fluid level often and do not let it run dry.
- c. Tighten the wheel cylinder bleeder screws (2208 ) to 7-9 N-m (61-87 lb-in).
- d. One at a time, loosen the caliper bleeder screws. Leave the bleeder screws open until clear fluid flows. Check the fluid level often in the brake master cylinder reservoir and do not let it run dry.
- e. Tighten the caliper bleeder screws to 17-24 N-m (12-17 lb-ft).
8. After the brake system has been primed, bleed the brake system at each wheel (1007).
__________________________________________________________________
See also:
.

Brake Fluid Reservoir Washing
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

After the brake fluid has been neglected (it should be changed every 3 years, or with each brake service), the sediment in the reservoir makes seeing the actual level difficult. Fortunately, it's fairly easy to remove the reservoir & wash it out.

See also:
. . . . .

'87-96 Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir

There's no good way to clean these reservoirs in-place, and even removing them doesn't make it much easier, but it does prevent the washout from going into the MC.

The plastic pliers are the least-likely method to break the reservoir, but it can still happen if the plastic is foggy. Removing the reed switch isn't really necessary unless it's bad, but this one is OK. The hardest thing to remove is the float, but I wanted to be sure there were no rust particles on the magnet, and no sediment under it - there was neither.

After bending an old toothbrush to scrub the inside with hot water & Purple Power, I drilled the rear baffles to make changing the fluid easier, blasted it out with brake cleaner & let everything dry. I put a thin coat of silicone grease (SilGlide) on the grommets to make future removal easier, and then reinstalled it.

Note that this master cylinder is built withOUT a SCCDS port, indicating that it did NOT come from a '94-04 truck with cruise.

See also:
. . . . .

Booster Hose Routing

Brake Line Flaring

A newer design of tool may be easier to use:
Titan 51535
Lisle 33260
turret flaring tool

Brake Hose Clip Removal

RHF shown; others similar.

Go to the NEXT...

Brake Hose Clip Removal

First, wash all the dirt away from the fittings, and out of the clip. Then brush away heavy rust and apply penetrating oil. If the fittings are rusty, use flare nut wrenches to break them. The hole in the spring tower is keyed, so the outboard wrench may not be necessary, but it's good insurance.

RHF shown; others use the same size wrenches.

Go to the NEXT...

Brake Hose Clip Removal

The clip can't be removed until the brake line & inverted flare nut are gone. Pry the clip up and off; two prybars may be required. If necessary, hook into the back of the clip to pull it off while holding the front up.

Go to the NEXT...

Brake Hose Clip Removal

The clip can't be removed until the brake line & inverted flare nut are gone. Pry the clip up and off; two prybars may be required. If necessary, hook into the back of the clip to pull it off while holding the front up.

Go to the NEXT...

Brake Hose Clip Removal

The clip can't be removed until the brake line & inverted flare nut are gone. Pry the clip up and off; two prybars may be required. If necessary, hook into the back of the clip to pull it off while holding the front up.

Go to the NEXT...

Brake Hose Clip Removal

Note that one of the hex points is rounded off to key the fitting to the frame.

Caliper Hoses
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The left front hose for RABS F150s & Broncos is different from 4WABS Broncos, but the right is the same.

'92-96 Rear Brake Hose fits '80-96 1/2-ton
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

I found this in a JY, and since I can't find a new US-made hose for the '93EB I'm building, I've cleaned this one inside & out, and clearcoated the metal.

.

The rear hose upper clip is a simple U. First clean the area & apply penetrating oil to the fitting. Use the proper flare-nut wrench to prevent damage to the nut, and a backup wrench under the frame to prevent damage to the frame or hose. Prepare to catch the drips.

.

Cross-drilling is only for looks. On race cars, it reduces weight, but on trucks, it only makes the brakes run hotter because it removes thermal mass. Slotting was originally done to release gasses generated by organic lining material, but modern pads are cured of these gasses during manufacture, so slotting is also unnecessary. For more info, consult the Wilwood FAQ. If the link doesn't work, here's what it said:

"Why are some rotors drilled or slotted?
Rotors are drilled to reduce rotating weight, an issue near and dear to racers searching for ways to minimize unsprung weight. Drilling diminishes a rotor's durability and cooling capacity.
Slots or grooves in rotor faces are partly a carryover from the days of asbestos pads. Asbestos and other organic pads were prone to "glazing" and the slots tended to help "scrape or de-glaze" them. Drilling and slotting rotors has become popular in street applications for their pure aesthetic value."

Here's a more-thorough article:
http://automotivethinker.com/brakes-2/rotors-blank-vs-cross-drilled-vs-slotted-and-warping/

Before buying craptasmic brakes or other common parts, check for coupons & service offers from Ford.

See also:

Booster Operation

Under normal driving conditions, the engine's intake manifold vacuum passes to both sides of the brake booster diaphragm via the large vacuum hose & plastic right-angle check valve in the front of the booster. It stops at the rear (in-cab) vent valve (vacuum bleed port) which is closed when the pedal is not applied. Since pressure is equal within the booster's steel housing, there is no force applied to the diaphragm or pushrod.

When the pedal is first applied, the equalizer valve (between the 2 sides of the diaphragm) closes, maintaining engine vacuum on the front of the diaphragm, but blocking off the vacuum supply to the rear. Whatever vacuum pressure is behind the diaphragm remains until the pedal moves farther. As the pedal continues to move forward, the vacuum bleed port begins to open, allowing atmospheric pressure to enter the rear chamber. Since the front chamber is still under vacuum, a force develops across the diaphragm, which is applied to the pushrod, assisting the operator in pushing against the master cylinder piston.

The vacuum bleed port allows only the required amount of atmospheric pressure into the booster chamber. This is determined by the force applied to the brake pedal by the driver. The harder the driver applies the brake, the more atmospheric pressure allowed into the booster chamber, and the greater the vacuum boost. Once the level of boost corresponds to the force applied to the brake pedal the bleed port on the pushrod closes, thus maintaining the level of vacuum in the chamber.

When the pedal stops, both valves close, holding the last pressure differential in the booster, allowing the operator to maintain high brake pressure with little effort.

When the pedal is moved rearward, the operating valve pushrod moves back, opening the vacuum port to the rear chamber, which evacuates the air & moves the diaphragm, pushrod, pedal, & master cylinder piston back to lower the brake pressure.

When the pedal is fully released, the equalized vacuum in both chambers allows the return spring to force the pushrod away from the master cylinder piston, and the pedal to the full up position.

Booster Installation

The booster can be changed without opening any hydraulic lines. Remove the master cylinder nuts, pull the MC away & lay it to the side, remove the booster nuts & pushrod under the dash, unhook its vacuum line, and pull it out.

The stoplamp switch is commonly abbreviated BOO (Brake On-Off). The later style switch is call BPP (Brake Pedal Position), but that term is sometimes also applied to this older style.

See also:

Booster Pushrod Adjustment

Brake On-Off Switch (E9LY-13480-A) Motorcraft SW2237 Installation

1) Install the ring bushing on the pedal peg against the arm.
2) Install the strawhat bushing in the pushrod eye with the wide brim AWAY from the pedal arm, and hang them on the end of the peg
3) hook the BOO behind the pushrod eye, then slide it fully onto the peg, carrying the pushrod & strawhat with it
4) optionally, another ring bushing may be added, but it's not necessary
5) install the hairpin in the peg's hole

BOO Switch Installation

See also:
. . . . . . . . . .

1/2-ton Drum Brake Parts
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.



Chock the front tires, support the axle, remove the wheel and drum.

Disassembly by hand (except step 10):
1) pull the autoadjuster lever (2A176) away from the screw (2041) and turn the wheel to fully retract the screw into the nut (2047).
2) Pull the front shoe (2200) away from the autoadjuster assembly (2048-2047) and remove the assembly.
3) Push the shoes (2200) together and remove the lever (2A176) from the rear shoe (2200).
4) Disconnect the cable (2A178 ) and spring (2296/2049) from the lever (2A176), and remove the spring (2296/2049) from the front shoe (2200). Remove the cable from the anchor pin (part of 2211).
5) Reach behind the FRONT of the plate (2211) and hold the pin (2069) while compressing & rotating the retainer (part of 2068 ) on the FORWARD shoe (less friction material). Remove the spring & retainers (2068 ), & pin (2069).
6) Pull the forward shoe (2200) away from the plate (2A176) and swing it up & away from the plate to relax & remove the return spring (2296/2035).
7) Remove the link bar assembly (2A642/2A601/2A787).
8 ) Remove the rear shoe retainer as in step 5, and its return spring as in step 6. Remove the cable guide (2A179). Remove the anchor guide plate (2028 ).
9) Compress its spring (not shown) and slide the e-brake cable ferrule (not shown) out of the lever (2A637).
10) Use spreading snap ring pliers to open the C-clip (2N790/2106). Alternatively, hammer a wide flat-blade screwdriver against the tips to drive the clip back off the pin, then use a strong pick to pull it so it opens. Remove the e-brake lever (2A637) from the rear shoe (2200, more friction material) & spring washer (2N674).
11) Remove both pushrods (2042) and dust caps (2246). (It may be necessary to hold the piston in the cylinder to get the cap past the limiter on the backing plate.) Fluid behind the dust caps indicates a fault in the autoadjuster mechanism or a leak in the wheel cylinder (2261).

Clean ALL points of contact with a wire brush & brake cleaner, including inside the autoadjuster, and the piston faces. Lubricate ALL points of metal-to-metal contact (indicated in Pink) with either silicone grease or brake grease, including the edges of the shoes (2200) & their slide pads on the backing plate (2211).



Insert the e-brake lever (2A637) into a shoe (2200) with LONGER friction material, then install the C-clip (2N790/2106) over the spring washer (2N674) and crimp tightly in the pin's groove. While holding the piston in the cylinder, install the dust cap (2x).

Assembly is the reverse of removal steps 9-1. The e-brake levers go on the REAR shoes (more friction material). The last part to install should be the cable, by hooking it to the pawl, hanging the ring on the peg, and slipping it over the guide while lifting the pawl above the star wheel.



'87-96 Drum YL3Z-1V126-D MotorCraft BRD49/BRD34
Nov '84-96 Shoes (4pcs) MotorCraft BR96B
Left Cylinder MotorCraft BRWC6 Raybestos WC370192
Left Adjuster Kit MotorCraft BRAK2544A (plug, cable, guide, lever, 4pcs autoadjuster)
Right Cylinder MotorCraft BRWC7 Raybestos WC370193
Right Adjuster Kit MotorCraft BRAK2545A
Spring Kit MotorCraft BRSK7225A (2 plugs, 2 U-rings, 2 spring washers, 4 rods, 4 silver springs, 4 caps, 2 red springs, 2 blue springs, 2 brown springs)
Park Brake Cables: Front Motorcraft BRCA34, Left Motorcraft BRCA263, Right Motorcraft BRCA264
Shoe Retainer (D7TZ-2028-B)
Pushrod (C6TZ-2042-H)

New backing plates (Right E5TZ-2211-B, Left ...2-B), link bars (Strut: Right D4VY-2A642-A, Left -B), link springs(D1AZ-2A601-A), link spring washers (2A787), & e-brake levers (Right D7AZ-2A637-A, Left ...8-A) are not available in 2017.



This page explains how to swap to rear disc brakes on these trucks using almost all factory parts, but it is NOT better than well-maintained drums, and costs a LOT more both to do the swap, and in the future:

'78-96 F150/Bronco Drum Brake Components & Lubrication
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
The springs are shown in their actual OE colors. Grease is shown pink. Do not allow anything (especially grease) to contaminate the friction surfaces.



Chock the front tires, support the rear axle, remove the wheel and drum.

Disassembly by hand (except step 10):
1) pull the autoadjuster lever (13) away from the screw (16) and turn the wheel to fully retract the screw into the nut (17).
2) Pull a shoe (9 or 20) away from the autoadjuster assembly (14-17) and remove the assembly.
3) Push the shoes (9 & 20) together and remove the lever (13) from the shoe (9).
4) Disconnect the cable (22) and spring (21) from the lever (13), and remove the spring (21) from the shoe (9).
5) Reach behind the FRONT of the plate (3) and hold the pin (28 ) while compressing & rotating the retainer (27) on the FORWARD shoe (less friction material). Remove the spring (19), retainers (18 ), & pin (28 ).
6) Pull the forward shoe (20) away from the plate (3) and swing it to relax & remove the return spring (24).
7) Remove the link bar assembly (7,25,26).
8 ) Remove the rear shoe retainer as in step 5, and its return spring as in step 6. Remove the cable (22) and guide (12). Remove the anchor guide plate (4).
9) Compress its spring (not shown) and slide the e-brake cable ferrule (not shown) out of the lever (8 ).
10) Use spreading snap ring pliers to open the C-clip (11) and remove the e-brake lever (8 ) from the shoe (9). Alternatively, hammer a wide flat-blade screwdriver against the tips to drive the clip back off the pin, then use a strong pick to pull it so it opens. Remove the spring washer (10) & e-brake lever (8 ) from the rear shoe (9, more friction material).
11) Remove both pushrods (6) and dust caps (on 5). (It may be necessary to hold the piston in the cylinder to get the cap past the limiter on the backing plate.) Fluid behind the dust caps indicates a fault in the autoadjuster mechanism or a leak in the wheel cylinder (5).

Clean ALL points of contact with a wire brush & brake cleaner, including inside the autoadjuster, and the piston faces. Lubricate ALL points of metal-to-metal contact (indicated in Pink) with either silicone grease or brake grease, including the edges of the shoes (9&20) & their slide pads on the backing plate (3).

.

Insert the e-brake lever (8 ) into a shoe (9) with LONGER friction material, then install the C-clip (11) over the spring washer (10) and crimp tightly in the pin's groove. While holding the piston in the cylinder, install the dust cap (2x).

Assembly is the reverse of removal steps 9-1. The e-brake levers go on the REAR shoes (more friction material).



'87-96 Drum YL3Z-1V126-D MotorCraft BRD49/BRD34
Nov '84-96 Shoes (4pcs) MotorCraft BR96B
Left Cylinder MotorCraft BRWC6
Left Adjuster Kit MotorCraft BRAK2544A (plug, cable, guide, lever, 4pcs autoadjuster)
Right Cylinder MotorCraft BRWC7
Right Adjuster Kit MotorCraft BRAK2545A
Spring Kit MotorCraft BRSK7225A (2 plugs, 2 U-rings, 2 spring washers, 4 rods, 4 silver springs, 4 caps, 2 red springs, 2 blue springs, 2 brown springs)

New pushrods (6), link bars (7), link springs (25), link spring retainers (26), shoe retainers (4), & e-brake levers (8 ) are not available in 2017.

Brake Spring Kit (BRSK-7225-A) for all '80-96 F150s & Broncos

Contains:
2 - primary shoe retractor spring (red) - part of 2035 (2296)
2 - secondary shoe retractor spring (brown) - part of 2035 (2296)
2 - autoadjuster pawl spring (blue) - 2049 (2269)
4 - shoe retainer spring (silver) - 2068
4 - shoe retainer pin - 2069
4 - shoe retainer cup - 2066
2 - autoadjuster access plug (rubber) - 2092
2 - park lever washer - 351467-S (XX352)
2 - park lever U-ring - 2106
2 - spreader bar spring (red) - 2A601
2 - access plug - 2092



NOT INCLUDED:
2 - spreader bar washer - 2A787 (no longer available)
2 - spreader bar - 2A642 (no longer available)
2 - shoe top pin guide - 2028 (no longer available)
4 - wheel cylinder pushrod - 2042 (possibly Wagner Wagner H1421))
2 - park lever (L&R) - 2A637 (no longer available)
2 - wheel cylinder w/dust boots (L&R) - 2206 (Left BRWC6 & Right BRWC7)
L - autoadjuster kit (sleeve, screw, washer, cap, pawl, cable, guide, access plug) - BRAK2544A
R - autoadjuster kit (sleeve, screw, washer, cap, pawl, cable, guide, access plug) - BRAK2545A
1 - shoe set (2 primary & 2 secondary) - 2200 Motorcraft-BR96B
2 - drum - YL3Z-1V126-D Motorcraft BRD49

How to release drum brakes (drum removed for clarity) if the drum cannot be slipped off.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Use a screwdriver or other tool to hold the pawl off the adjuster teeth, while using another to spin the wheel down (1/2-ton FS trucks; other vehicles may spin the other way).

Drum Brake Tools
I actually don't use the big tool, and I rarely use the smaller one - it's easier to install the shoes & springs by hand.

See also:
.

Park Brake Lever Clip Removal
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Either style of spreading pliers will work, if its tips are small enough to get inside the C-clip.

When re-installing the C-clip, compress only its sides to catch the peg's slot - avoid folding the tips in farther than necessary.

If it looks like this immediately after slipping the drum off, then the autoadjuster is OK.
SEE THE NEXT PIC...



Ford 8.8" axle uses 10 lug studs D6AZ-1107-A ('83-00)
Dana 44IFS uses 10 lug studs D6TZ-1107-A ('83-96)
Ford TIB axle uses 10 lug studs F4UZ-1107-A ('94-96)

Autoadjuster seized; probably because it wasn't cleaned & lubricated properly.
SEE THE PREVIOUS PIC...

. .

Ford 8.8" axle uses 10 lug studs D6AZ-1107-A ('83-00)
Dana 44IFS uses 10 lug studs D6TZ-1107-A ('83-96)
Ford TIB axle uses 10 lug studs F4UZ-1107-A ('94-96)

Shoe Lining separated; probably due to cheap shoes, and/or the truck being abandoned long enough for rust to break the glue.

See also:

The anti-rattle spring for the e-brake spreader bar naturally twists over time, causing it to bind & wear against the bar. Manually twist it back into shape during each service.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Typical Drum Components; RIGHT side shown
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

See also:
.

LEFT Drum Components for F-series pre-'97; RIGHT heavy-duty drum brakes
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Note that the primary (front) shoe has LESS friction material than the secondary (rear) shoe.

After cleaning...

.

...apply a light coat of brake grease to each point of contact. DO NOT apply grease to the friction material of the pads or shoes.



For drum brakes, apply grease:
- on every point that the steel frame of the shoe touches the backing plate or anything else (but NOT on the friction material or drum)
- inside the autoadjuster and in each end
- where the autoadjuster cable touches the guide
- on the e-brake lever & its pivot pin
- on the equalizer bar where the spring & guide slide
- on the pushrods inside the dust boots where they touch the slave cylinder's pistons.

The CRC grease is the only one that's NOT silicone. It can be purchased in many colors so that shops can tell if they were the last ones to work on your brakes. I buy black for personal use.

Before buying craptasmic brakes or other common parts, check for coupons & service offers from Ford.

See also:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

TSB 98-5A-13 NEW SPECIFICATION - Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound to be used for Disc Brake Caliper Slides

Publication Date: MARCH 18, 1998

FORD:
1984-1994 TEMPO
1984-1996 MUSTANG, THUNDERBIRD
1985-1996 CROWN VICTORIA, ESCORT
1986-1996 TAURUS
1989-1996 PROBE
1994-1996 ASPIRE
1995-1996 CONTOUR

LINCOLN-MERCURY:
1982-1996 CONTINENTAL
1984-1994 TOPAZ
1984-1996 COUGAR
1985-1996 GRAND MARQUIS
1986-1996 SABLE, TOWN CAR
1987-1989 TRACER
1991-1994 CAPRI
1991-1996 TRACER
1993-1996 MARK VIII
1995-1996 MYSTIQUE

LIGHT TRUCK:
1983-1996 RANGER
1986-1996 AEROSTAR
1990-1996 BRONCO, ECONOLINE, F SUPER DUTY, F-150-350 SERIES
1991-1996 EXPLORER
1993-1996 VILLAGER
1995-1996 WINDSTAR
MEDIUM/HEAVY TRUCK: 1990-1991 C SERIES
1990-1996 F & B SERIES

ISSUE: The use of petroleum-based grease as a lubricant in servicing disc brakes is no longer acceptable because it may be incompatible with the rubber material used in the disc brake system. If petroleum-based grease is used to lubricate any part of the disc brake system, it could cause rubber parts to swell if lubricant contacts the rubber material.

ACTION: Refer to the following Servicing Procedures for details.

DISC BRAKE SERVICING
CAUTION: DO NOT USE PETROLEUM-BASED SERVICE GREASE (SUCH AS FORD DISC BRAKE CALIPER SLIDE GREASE D7AZ-19590-A) TO LUBRICATE DISC BRAKE CALIPER SLIDE PINS OR RUBBER DUST BOOTS. PETROLEUM-BASED GREASE MAY CAUSE EPDM RUBBER TO SWELL.

When servicing any disc brakes, lubricate necessary components by applying Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound (D7AZ-19A331-A (Motorcraft WA-10)) or an equivalent silicone compound meeting Ford Specification ESE-M1C171-A. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual for specific service details.

DRUM BRAKE SERVICING
When servicing drum brakes, apply Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound (D7AZ-19A331-A (Motorcraft WA-10)) or an equivalent silicone compound meeting Ford Specification ESE-M1C171-A to the contact points between the brake shoes and the drum backing plates for lubrication.

NOTE: DISC BRAKE CALIPER SLIDE GREASE D7AZ-19590-A SHOULD NO LONGER BE USED FOR DISC BRAKE CALIPER SLIDE LUBRICATION.

OTHER SERVICE APPLICATIONS
Existing inventory of D7AZ-19590-A may be used for all other Service Manual procedures. Once material is exhausted, all vehicle procedures specifying Disc Brake Caliper Slide Grease (D7AZ-19590-A) should use Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound (D7AZ-19A331-A).

PART NUMBER : PART NAME
D7AZ-19A331-A : Silicone Brake Caliper Grease And Dielectric Compound



OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
SUPERSEDES: 95-21-02

See also:
. .

Drum Brake Action; RIGHT side rolling FORWARD shown
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

During rolling braking, the brake linings don't merely push up against the drum and hold as they do when the vehicle is standing still. Friction between the moving drum and the brake linings drag the brakes shoes in the direction of the rotation as shown. As a result, several important things happen.

1. When the brakes are applied rolling forward, the drag forces cause the primary shoe (with LESS friction material) to rotate away from the anchor pin.

2. The primary shoe pushes the autoadjuster against the secondary shoe.

3. The secondary shoe comes to a stop against the anchor pin, and neither shoe can rotate farther, even though the drag forces are still in effect.

4. These drag forces create a force pivoting the brake shoe outward, creating increased pressure against the drum, called "wedging" or "self-energizing" action. As the shoes are forced outward, the linings wedge themselves tighter to the drum than would occur if the components weren't free to move.

5. In this process, the secondary shoe has more force applied to it than the primary shoe (which is why the primary needs less friction material). Both shoes experience force from the wheel cylinder pistons and both experience drag forces due to the rotation of the drum. But the secondary shoe also gets additional force from the movement of the primary shoe which is transmitted through the self-adjusting link. For this reason, the secondary shoe does more of the braking work than the primary shoe. To take advantage of this, the secondary lining has a larger surface area. It is also thicker because more wear will occur. This process is called "self-energizing" because it causes the brake shoes to apply more braking force than the wheel cylinder alone could apply. When brakes are designed, this effect is planned for. This is why all the brake components are free to move. Without that freedom, the rotating and wedging action wouldn't occur.

See also:

The C-clip for the e-brake lever doesn't need to be mangled, ruined, or bent tip-to-tip during installation - just enough to keep it from sliding off. This makes it easy to remove later, and re-used if necessary.

Drum Brake Shoe Caliper allows setting the autoadjuster before installing the drum
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

With or without this tool, spin the autoadjuster until the drum will barely slip on & spin freely.

Brake Drum Wear Limit Specification is stamped into drum lip
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

282.45mm = 11.12"

Autoadjuster Action
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Self-adjustment takes place in two steps when the vehicle is driven in reverse and stopped with the brakes. Self-adjustment does not take place when the vehicle is backed up and allowed to roll to a stop.

The components of the self-adjustment system are shown in the illustration. The self-adjusting lever does the work. It engages the teeth of the star wheel. A cable is attached to the lever. This cable passes around a guide on the secondary (rear/main) shoe and is attached to the anchor pin. A return spring is also attached to the lever. The other end of the return spring is attached to the primary (front/small) shoe.

When the brakes are applied while traveling in reverse, the friction forces drag the brake shoes in the direction of rotation. This action is similar to the action in normal braking, only in reverse. The movement of the secondary shoe puts tension on the cable and rotates the adjusting lever upward. If the wear on the linings is sufficient to need adjustment, the lever will rise above & then rest on the next tooth up on the star wheel.

When braking is completed, the shoes move back to their normal position. As this happens, the tension on the cable is relaxed. This allows the return spring to force the lever downward, turning the star wheel as it does. Turning the star wheel activates a screw mechanism in the adjusting pin -- lengthening the pin. As the pin lengthens, the linings of both shoes are moved closer to the drum, compensating for wear. This reduces the distance that the shoes & lever move, preventing further adjustment until additional wear occurs.

This simple, mechanical system works well unless the screw mechanism in the adjusting pin has become corroded. If this is the case, the pin may not turn properly and adjustment may not take place. In this case, the cable will be found slack during the next brake service. Also remember that some drivers rarely back up. In this case, sufficient adjustment may not take place.

If the shoes are allowed to wear into the drums, a lip may remain at the inboard edge of the drum which prevents the drum from sliding off the shoes. In this case, the autoadjuster must be retracted manually using 2 tools working through the slot in the backing plate. One tool holds the lever away from the star wheel; the other turns the star wheel to shorten the autoadjuster assembly until the drum can clear the shoes.

The shoes may also wear into the backing plates, preventing them from moving away from their normal positions. This may be particularly noticeable when backing (or using the e-brake when the front is uphill) because the shoes energize the opposite direction. If the wear is shallow, it may be ground down. If it's more than fingernail-depth, the plate should be replaced, though some people weld them up and grind them back down.

See also:
.

Parking Brake Action
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
The "FRONT" label at the bottom is wrong for fullsize trucks, whose parking brake lever is always to the REAR.

The basic components of the rear parking brake are shown in the LEFT pane. (The RIGHT pane only applies to pre-'92 trucks.) A cable from the foot pedal or parking brake lever enters through a hole in the backing plate. It is attached to the end of the lever arm. The other end of the lever is attached to a pivot point on the primary shoe. There is a connecting link between the lever and the secondary shoe. Finally, there is a cable return spring (and rattle preventer) at the secondary shoe end of the connecting link.

When the parking brakes are applied, the lever pivots at the pivot point on the primary shoe. Because of the connecting link between the lever and the secondary shoe, the shoes move apart as the lever is activated. The pivot point moves one way, and the connecting link the other. This pushes the shoes tight against the drum and holds the vehicle as long as tension is maintained.

When the parking brake is released the primary and secondary return springs return the shoes to their normal position. The cable return spring pushes the connecting link back against the lever. The movement of the lever takes up any slack in the parking brake cable.

This is just one of several systems for activating the parking brakes. Other systems use a cam-type lever located directly between the primary and secondary shoes in the vicinity of the anchor pin.

In most Ford light trucks, the parking brakes are activated by a foot pedal. However, some motor homes and step vans use an Orscheln lever in place of the foot pedal.

The major service concern occurs when the components fail to retract properly. This may result in brake drag, overheating and excessive lining wear.

Proper parking brake cable tension is essential for good performance, and clean/greased drum brake hardware is critical to tension adjustment. The old way of adjusting this tension was to release the parking brake and tighten the cable manually until the brakes were just about to engage (assuming the drum mechanisms are working properly). A better way is to fully apply the parking brake and check the tension of the cable. There are two ways to do this: Using a tension gauge, or observing the "bent pin" automatic adjuster (pre-'92 ONLY).

If you use a tension gauge, check the appropriate service manual for the proper tension. If you don't have a tension gauge, you can make a visual check of the "bent pin" connection (pre-'92) at the adjusting point in the parking brake cable. The "bent pin" is attached to the cable from the foot pedal by the coupling cap. The pin turns around a pivot in the tension limiter housing. The open end of the pin has a hook, as shown in the inset. This hook prevents the pin from pulling around the pivot point completely during its service life.
Apply the parking brake, making sure that the pedal is at full travel. Slightly tighten the equalizer nut. If the nail doesn't pull, the tension is not sufficient. Tightening the equalizer nut until the nail does pull will set the correct tension. Follow the instructions in the appropriate service manual.

See also:
.

Drum Shoe Pads
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

An often overlooked area that requires servicing is the backing plate pads that support the brake shoes. The brake shoe shown in the illustration has three tabs. The shoe is pulled against the backing plate by the retaining spring and these tabs bear on three raised pads on the surface of the backing plate. As they move outward and rotate during braking, the tabs on the shoes slide across these pads.

. .

The pads must be well lubricated. If they are not, undesirable friction may occur. If there is friction, the movement of the shoe may score grooves in the pad, grooves that may affect performance over time.

'83-96 8.8" Axle 11x2.25" Drum Brake Backing Plates
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Parking Brake Cables ('92-96)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Park/e-brake switch Standard DS3398

View Y has been revised - see the TSB linked below.

1 Control Assembly 2780
2 2 Nut M8 x 1.25 Hex Flange 17-23 N-m (13-17 Ft-Lb) N620481-S
3 Cable Assembly, Front 2853 (Motorcraft BRCA34, Wagner BC132061)
4 Cable Assembly, Intermediate 2A793 (Bronco Wagner BC129224)
5 Equalizer 2A602
6 Bracket 2530
7 Rivet N647097-S
8 Clip, 10 x 10 N800962-S32
9 Screw, Tap 5/16-18 x 3/4 Hex Washer Head 24-30 N-m (18-22 Ft-Lb) 40949-S2
10 Cable and Conduit Assembly, Right F6TZ-2A635-BB (Motorcraft BRCA264, Wagner BC132090 / BC94490)
11 Cable and Conduit Assembly, Left F6TZ-2A635-BA (Motorcraft BRCA263, Wagner BC132089)
12 Clip N804729-S11 or N807947-S100
13 Screw and Washer 5/16 x 18 x .50 Hex Head 17-23 N-m (13-17 Ft-Lb) 57632-S2
14 Steering Column Support 3B139

Park Brake Cable Removal
1.Remove the left kick panel.
2. Disconnect the parking brake indicator light switch connector at the control assembly.
3. Remove the three nuts holding the control assembly to the steering column support. Pull the control assembly away from the steering column support.
4. Relieve tension on the parking brake system by having an assistant pull on the intermediate cable until all cable is unwound from the control assembly.
5. Insert a 5/32-inch drill bit or equivalent into the hole provided in the control assembly.
6. Disconnect the front cable from the cable connector.
7.Disconnect the barrel end of the cable from the control assembly.
8.Disconnect the cable conduit from the control assembly by inserting a 1/2-inch 12-point box end wrench over the conduit snap fitting to compress the retaining fingers and backing out the snap fitting.

Installation
1. Route the cable end fitting over the cable shoe. Snap the conduit fitting into the control assembly housing. Insert the barrel end into the hole in the track.
2. Position the control assembly to the steering column support and install the three retaining nuts. Tighten to 17-23 N-m (13-17 ft-lb).
3. Connect the front cable to the cable connector.
4. Connect the parking brake indicator light switch connector.
5. Carefully remove the drill bit from the control assembly. NOTE: The control assembly will tension itself when the drill bit is removed.
6. Operate the parking brake pedal several times. Rotate both rear wheels to be sure that the parking brakes are not dragging.
7. Install the left kick panel.
________________________________________________________________________________________________

TSB 00-01-03 PARKING BRAKE - PROCEDURE FOR SERVICING PARKING BRAKE - SERVICE TIP - BRONCO AND F-SERIES BUILT THROUGH 4/22/1994 AND EXPLORER/RANGER BUILT THROUGH 5/13/1994

Publication Date: DECEMBER 22, 1999

FORD: 1992-94 BRONCO, F-150-350 SERIES
1993-94 EXPLORER, RANGER

ISSUE: When servicing the parking brake or service brake systems where the lock-in wedge has been installed in the parking brake control, additional service procedures will be necessary.

ACTION: When a lock-in wedge part has been previously installed in the parking brake control assembly, it must be removed prior to conducting maintenance procedures from the appropriate Service Manual, Sections 06-04 (Rear Drum Brakes) and 06-05 (Parking Brake System). The wedge must be reinstalled after service is completed. Refer to Service Recall Bulletin 94S91-S3 for lock-in wedge part removal and installation detailed service procedures, part numbers, and diagrams. Be sure to inspect the wedge for damage. If any part of the wedge is broken or damaged, install a new wedge.

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: 94S91-S3
WARRANTY STATUS: INFORMATION ONLY

See also:
. . .

The e-brake switch is an open design, so simple dust can interfere with it making contact. Remove & clean it as needed.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

SOLD E-brake pedal assembly from 96 Bronco. Fits 92-96 F-series & Bronco.

Front cable (shown) Motorcraft BRCA-34

Front E-brake Cable Installation
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

With a pin (or small screw - Red pointer) holding the pedal self-adjusting mechanism at its limit, insert the cable end (Green pointer) through the bottom along the groove in the front of the pulley, up to the top, and into its hook. To release the pin, simply pull the pedal assembly away from the floor until the cable seats into the groove and takes up the tension, allowing the pin (screw) to drop out.

Removal is the reverse of installation. The pedal MUST be hard against its upper (released) stop for the adjuster mechanism to be unlocked.

See also:
. . .

E-brake Cable Re-connection
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The pedal MUST be hard against its upper (released) stop for the adjuster mechanism to be unlocked. Then the equalizer can be pulled rearward by hand to insert or remove the cable ends from its keyhole slots.

See also:
. . .

SOLD This might actually have come from an '88 F150.