The inside of the Left rear drum (Torino-style 10x2.5"; 13/16" bore; 2900# axle) looked better than I expected, but some problems emerged later... A few parts are missing, and there's almost no lubrication on the moving parts, so they aren't moving. But the shoes are barely worn, and the slaves appear to have been replaced at the same time as the shoes. The autoadjuster cable has been tied in a knot - apparently because it's for 11" drums.

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Rear Lug Studs: D6AZ-1107-A, Raybestos 27832B (shoulder protrudes from drum ~1/16"), Wagner BD61142
Rear Left Cylinder: Wagner WC80186
Rear Right Cylinder: Wagner WC80187
Rear Drums: Bendix PDR0296
Rear Brake Spring Kit: Raybestos H7143
Rear Brake Shoes: Raybestos 169PG, Bosch BS169R

1/2-ton Lug Nut: (Made in USA)
(4 chrome,13/16" drive) McGard 64000
(4 black,13/16" drive) McGard 64030
(100 chrome,13/16" drive) McGard 69400
(100 chrome bulge, 3/4" drive) McGard 69410
(4 chrome bulge, 3/4" drive) McGard 64010
(4 black bulge, 3/4" drive) McGard 64029
(8 chrome extra-long, 7/8" drive) McGard 64805

I washed & sandblasted the moving hardware, and then clearcoated it.

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On the Right rear, I found that someone had broken off the slave piston limit tabs from the backing plate. Rather than try to replace the backing plate, I welded some tabs back on.

These are NOT used or necessary when the brakes are assembled - they're only to prevent the pistons from shooting out during brake maintenance & repairs. But these pistons are rusted in their bores, so none of them moved when the brakes came off.

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Fortunately, the Left rear tabs had merely been bent in, so I bent them back out.

These are NOT used or necessary when the brakes are assembled - they're only to prevent the pistons from shooting out during brake maintenance & repairs. But these pistons are rusted in their bores, so none of them moved when the brakes came off.

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Both front hubs were obviously contaminated with water, and the lock knobs didn't move. The Left had been forced so hard that it was cracked open, which undoubtedly contributed to the contamination. It took a lot of effort to get the hub locks out, and the left front spindle threads have a burr in them that I'll try to find & dress out. I hope NOT to have to pull the spindles.

Like the rears, the front shoes (11x2.25"; 1 1/8" bore) are hardly worn, due to the recent slaves being seized. But when I freed these, the Left front began leaking. The master cylinder is very rusty inside & out, and the fluid looks muddy.

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Front Lug Studs: Raybestos 6012B (shoulder protrudes from drum ~1/16")
Front Wheel Seals: National 4250
Front Outer Wheel Bearings: National A35
Front Inner Wheel Bearings: National A37
Front Spindle Bearing Kit: Dana 706527X
Hub Lock (19-spline pair): USA Standard USA29096, MileMarker 302 black plastic knob, MileMarker 104 stainless steel, Warn 20990 Premium, Warn 9790 Standard
Wheel Bearing Adjusting Nut Set: Dana-Spicer 28068X, MileMarker 32720, Warn 32720
Front Left Cylinder: Wagner WC35325
Front Right Cylinder: Wagner WC35326
Front Drums: Bendix PDR0013
Front Brake Spring Kit: Wagner H7137
Front Brake Shoes: Wagner Z282R, Bosch BS282R

1/2-ton Lug Nut: (Made in USA)
(4 chrome,13/16" drive) McGard 64000
(4 black,13/16" drive) McGard 64030
(100 chrome,13/16" drive) McGard 69400
(100 chrome bulge, 3/4" drive) McGard 69410
(4 chrome bulge, 3/4" drive) McGard 64010
(4 black bulge, 3/4" drive) McGard 64029
(8 chrome extra-long, 7/8" drive) McGard 64805

After soaking for a day & then scrubbing the hub internals, it's apparent that they were driven through deep water, and then abandoned wet for a long time. The bearings & their races are also rusty. The hub lock parts might be salvageable with sandblasting, but they're not very easy to use or robust anyway.

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Front Lug Studs: Raybestos 6012B (shoulder protrudes from drum ~1/16")
Front Wheel Seals: National 4250
Front Outer Wheel Bearings: National A35
Front Inner Wheel Bearings: National A37
Front Spindle Bearing Kit: Dana 706527X
Hub Lock (19-spline pair): USA Standard USA29096, MileMarker 302 black plastic knob, MileMarker 104 stainless steel, Warn 20990 Premium, Warn 9790 Standard
Wheel Bearing Adjusting Nut Set: Dana-Spicer 28068X, MileMarker 32720, Warn 32720
Front Left Cylinder: Wagner WC35325
Front Right Cylinder: Wagner WC35326
Front Drums: Bendix PDR0013
Front Brake Spring Kit: Wagner H7137
Front Brake Shoes: Wagner Z282R, Bosch BS282R

1/2-ton Lug Nut: (Made in USA)
(4 chrome,13/16" drive) McGard 64000
(4 black,13/16" drive) McGard 64030
(100 chrome,13/16" drive) McGard 69400
(100 chrome bulge, 3/4" drive) McGard 69410
(4 chrome bulge, 3/4" drive) McGard 64010
(4 black bulge, 3/4" drive) McGard 64029
(8 chrome extra-long, 7/8" drive) McGard 64805

I knocked the rear lugs out of the hubs and polished the flanges. But these new lug studs are not the same as the originals - their shoulder is longer. I'm not sure if they'll have to be returned yet...

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For detailed assembly instructions, read this & the NEXT several pages:



Rear Lug Studs: D6AZ-1107-A, Raybestos 27832B, Wagner BD61142

1/2-ton Lug Nut: (Made in USA)
(4 chrome,13/16" drive) McGard 64000
(4 black,13/16" drive) McGard 64030
(100 chrome,13/16" drive) McGard 69400
(100 chrome bulge, 3/4" drive) McGard 69410
(4 chrome bulge, 3/4" drive) McGard 64010
(4 black bulge, 3/4" drive) McGard 64029
(8 chrome extra-long, 7/8" drive) McGard 64805

It looks like they'll work - the shoulder is only about 1/16" too long, which should fit in the recess of any wheel (including the current ones). The new front studs stick out about the same.

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I didn't realize this hub was machined 0.05" (nearly 1/16") too small until the seal was ruined. Note the narrow shoulder between the lip of the bearing outer race and the wall that the caliper is touching.

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This hub's seal bore is correct. Note the wider shoulder compared to the previous pic.

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After some research & a few trips to parts stores, I tracked down a seal that fits this odd hub.

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Even though this caliper's reading (3.290") doesn't match the seal's spec (3.303"), it matches the reading I got from the 2nd hub, and they fit.

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Before stabbing the hub onto the spindle, I like to fill the cavity between the bearings with the same hi-temp bearing grease that they're packed with. Having less airspace inside the hubs means less contraction when fording deep water, which means less suction to pull water into the bearings & hub locks. And more grease means the bearings will never run dry.

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I also like to fill the cavity between the inner beariing & seal with grease. The dark grease is just older blue grease from my bearing packer.

Driving the front studs through is easier than using the lug installer.

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Always clean the hub, drum, & wheel mounting surfaces before installation:

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All the flare nuts were stuck on the lines, so I worked them free, polished & greased the tubes so they'll seat properly without twisting the lines.

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That's REALLY annoying... But I didn't feel like waiting for RockAuto to send a replacement.

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Assembling the front shoes doesn't require any tools. But every point of metal-to-metal contact is greased using the correct brake grease.

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Note the stack order on the anchor pin (at the top): the winged retainer goes on first (on its step against the larger shoulder), then the rear shoe's retractor spring (whose other end holds the cable guide to the shoe) on the smallest step of the pin and the shoe on the larger shoulder (using the rear hold-down pin & spring to keep it in-place), then the front retractor spring & shoe (with its hold-down). Then hook the autoadjuster spring to the front shoe, hook the pawl on, then route the cable & hook it onto the anchor pin. After the autoadjuster is greased & assembled (fully-retracted), put it against the backing plate behind the shoes, put one end on a shoe, and spread the shoes enough to get the 2nd end on. Finally, measure the drum and spin the adjuster out to match.



The spindle bolt heads got cleaned when the seal shoulder was wire-wheeled.

I also dressed out the burr in the spindle threads, and swapped to the later bearing lock washers so auto hub locks can be installed.



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While the rear brakes were apart, I tested the e-brake by depressing the pedal fully, and then releasing it. It didn't spring back up, which shows that SOME of the cables are sticking. So I pulled it up, but it wouldn't stay, which shows that the front cable is sticking (if only the rears were stuck, the lever spring would pull the front cable back with the pedal). The front cable is also beginning to fray. Then I pulled each rear cable, but they're both stuck, too. I used pliers to get the Left one back, which is why its clean spot isn't showing like the Right one's.

But the dual exhaust is in the way of replacing them.

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This is not only a result of the same neglect that caused the brakes & hub locks not to work - it's also a cause of some of the problems. All that water in the fluid is rusting out not only the master cylinder (which is being replaced), but also the lines, and the wheel cylinders. After emptying & tossing the MC, I pulled the wheel cylinders and flushed all the lines with brake cleaner to get everything out. They'll be dry before any fluid goes back in. That new bottle of DOT3 will stay sealed until then.

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The RHR brake line was bent in several places, including immediately behind the wheel cylinder's tube nut, preventing it from sliding back. I straightened it gently, but it sheared when I unscrewed the nut. So I cut it back, straightened it as I slid the new tube nut on (gold in the background), and flared the end.

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New lug nuts (& studs), and rebuilt 5-screw auto hub locks (tested working)

After the dual exhaust was replaced with a sensible Y-pipe & muffler, the e-brake problems became apparent. The tab for the back end of the front cable was not attached because that part of the floor was gone; so even if everything else had been perfect, it wouldn't have worked. But everything else was in bad shape, too.

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Because its tab wasn't attached to the body, the front cable had been pinched between the floor & the transmission crossmember. Both rear cables were kinked at the backing plates, and not sliding.
(This image has been rotated 90° CW for some reason.)

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A small structure was fabricated to hold the e-brake cable securely to the floor patch.

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The front cable's tab has to be attached to the body, so I had no choice but to build a bracket (with the original tab welded in) & bolt it back to what floor was available. It's very solid, and with the 3 new cables connected to the new brakes that are lubricated & adjusted, it works well. All the equalizer hardware was sandblasted & painted. The only part not addressed was the e-brake pedal assembly, which seems to be working perfectly.