At OCBR09, I blew the caps off the U-joint in the driver's knuckle, but I didn't have a spare shaft. A few weeks later, the front diff exploded, so I'm replacing the damaged shaft (lower) with that fine specimen of a replacement (upper) while repairing the diff. I'm also replacing a worn upper BJ (MotorCraft MCS-10339).

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Everything up to this point is shown in the Brakes & Hubs album, so I won't duplicate it. Here, I've just disconnected the TRE by hitting the knuckle with a BFH. The vibration & flex releases the taper.

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For another little TTB-specific job, see this:



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Loosen, but don't remove, the lower BJ nut (MotorCraft MCS-10253). Back it off just until it's flush across the top of the stud.

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Flip the upper BJ nut and set it flush with the stud. This not only prevents the stud from mushrooming, but also prevents the cotter pin hole from collapsing.

When the taper breaks free, it won't move much - maybe not even enough to see, so check frequently. Since this one is worn out, it dropped ~1/32".

If it WON'T break loose, it may be necessary to drive for a few days with the upper nut LOOSE a few turns, but still cotter-pinned. Check frequently for the bushing to rise against the nut.

This is my new favorite way to get the cams out:



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Factory solid Camber Cam ~'90-96 1/2-ton 4WD

I now have these to replace them:



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92-96 Camber Cam size

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Once the taper is loose, pry up the camber cam (if installed). The older style has different indexing.

This is my new favorite way to pull the cams:



When I had this axle aligned (just after I swapped it in), the techs weren't able to remove the cams. I had to drive around for a few days with the nuts loose (but pinned), frequently spraying penetrating oil on them. When they finally broke loose, I cleaned them & applied anti-seize lube, so they were much easier this time.

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The lower BJ (MotorCraft MCS-10253) had never been removed, so this one was MUCH harder. I beat on it for a while, then tried a 6' prybar, then some WD-40, then a propane torch AND the prybar WITH an 8-lb sledgehammer finally got it out.

Nothing to see here - move along.

For another little TTB-specific job, see this:

This Snap-On BJ press is about double the price of a craptastic set, and it's worth it! Unfortunately, the recommended adapters didn't work for me - I had to mix & match. I think this is an 8 & 12 on the ram, and 7 on the receiver.



This method is much quicker:

Halfway thru, I had to add some washers between the adapters on the ram.
Upper BJ: MotorCraft MCS-10339



This method is much quicker:

Installing the new BJ (MotorCraft MCS-10339) also took some creativity - IIRC, it's 8 & 7 on the ram, and 6 on the receiver.

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After putting the knuckle back on, I got down to the REAL problem.

For another little TTB-specific job, see this:

Do you notice what's missing?

THERE it is! Well, at least 1/3 of it...

If you don't know your gear ratio, try to get a look at the edge of the ring gear. Some have the ratio, but this one has the tooth counts at the far R end of the embossed text: "43-14", which is (43/14)=3.07:1

What a mess...

I had guessed it was a side gear that shattered, based on the noise it made. I'm seriously considering Lincoln-locking this thing.

The E-ring barely visible on the end of the axleshaft is what makes this job a pain. This time, I just unclamped the boot from the far R shaft and pulled the slip joint apart.

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I think if I had tried, it would have been easy to remove this C-clip through the fill hole in the front of the axle beam. I might omit it in favor of the valve-spring-in-the-slip-joint mod, OR I might try to create a snap ring like modern CV shafts use, but I haven't decided yet.

***UPDATE***
I've both picked the E-ring from a fully-assembled good diff, and created 2 snap rings that work, so it CAN be done.

After beginning to tear it down, I decided to check the backlash. It's within spec.

This tool is something I made for fan clutches & pinion nuts, and it works. The big ratchet is also handy.

That's my sandblasted-&-clearcoated Saginaw bracket in the background.

Everything is stripped down & cleaned for welding, except for sandblasting inside the carrier. I won't reinstall the pinion shaft or the remaining spider gear.

The welds are a little rough, but my welder (my g/f's nephew) just had rotator cuff surgery & his R arm was in a sling. And it's still better than half the Lincoln lockers I've seen. I'm gonna knock out most of the spatter before putting it back together.

EPILOGUE: the L gear popped loose the first time I tried it on some slick mud.

The E-clip for the right inboard shaft of a Dana 44IFS can be picked through the fill hole. I tried on a D50IFS, but I don't think it's possible.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Because the factory E-ring is such a hassle, many people weld the slip yoke cap & install a spring to hold the inner shaft in the diff. But I chose to replace the E-ring with a snap ring like CV axles have to keep them in the diff. I bent it from an old spring, and it appears to work, based on several test-fits.

****UPDATE****
I've done this on 3 diffs now, and they all work perfectly - just like a CV axle in a FWD transaxle.

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I straightened & then reset the keystone clamps on the slip yoke boot.

To make draining easier & cleaner, I cut a hole in the bottom of the beam below the lowest point of the 3rd member housing. Since I'm using an older chunk, the casting doesn't have a flat surface behind the axle arm's lip. Later castings do, so this step wouldn't be necessary.



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I started with a 1/4" bit, then 1/2", then 3/4" to make the drain hole in the 3rd member.
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It took a lot of driving to find this 1/2"-14 NPT tap to match the stock diff plug that I'm going to use. DON'T OVERTAP any pipe-threaded hole. The threads need to be tapered to seal & to stop the plug from hitting the ring gear, so test-fit the plug to get the correct depth.

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This factory magnetic diff plug should collect any welding spatter that I didn't knock off, and it's flush enough not to interfere with the ring gear, or the axle beam.

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All slapped together & ready to go back! I'm putting the slip yoke back onto the outer shaft first, and then stabbing the inner (with my new snap ring) into the diff as I lift it into place. And I'm putting the RightStuff on the axle beam instead of on the 3rd member.

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Unlike most Lincoln-lockers I've seen, I didn't weld the spider gears or pinion shaft in - only the side gears.

***UPDATE***
The first weld job (by an amateur friend) lasted about 50' of wheeling; the 2nd job (by a pro) lasted about 20'; so I gave it a try myself (less than an amateur), and so far, I've broken a u-joint & 3 hub locks, so it's holding now.

***UPDATE***
I got tired of breaking parts, and getting stuck. So I'm back to wheeling 2 open diffs again, and having far fewer problems off-road.

I knew it wouldn't be exactly aligned, so I'll widen the hole with a burr one of these days.

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Later 3rd members have a boss that extends farther behind the lip of the beam, so the plug could be placed there without having to hole-saw the beam.

Well, I THOUGHT my gorilla welds had broken at OCBR, but apparently not... Both hub locks are shattered.

The debris in the splines caught in the outer ring's groove, preventing the lock body from sliding out, so I put the trusty Snap-On slide hammer on it. But the lock body just kept coming apart.

Eventually, most of the sections with threads had pulled out.

Fortunately, there was just enough to grab, and it finally came out.

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The other side wasn't nearly this bad, but I still had my O'Reilly's receipt from 1999, and they swapped them out again with no hassle.

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***UPDATE***
I broke the welds in the diff again, so I swapped back to open. And I broke the hub locks a few more times, so I swapped in some JY 5-screw autos.

Installation & Adjustment for (Moog K80108 ) 3 1/4-degree dual-axis camber cams

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Raybestos Ball Joints for most D44IFS TTBs; Ford/MotorCraft are better, and not substantially more expensive.

Upper: MotorCraft MCS-10339
Lower: MotorCraft MCS-10253



The procedure to install the steering knuckle is:
1) Assemble knuckle to axle arm assembly. Install camber adjuster on the stud of the front suspension upper ball joint with the arrow pointing outboard for "positive" camber, pointed inboard for "negative" camber.
2) Install new nut on bottom socket finger-tight. Install and tighten nut on top socket finger-tight. Tighten bottom nut to 47 N-m (35 ft-lb).
3) Tighten top nut to 136 N-m (100 ft-lb), then advance nut until castellation aligns with cotter pin hole. Install cotter pin. NOTE: Do not loosen top nut to install cotter pin.
4) Retighten bottom nut to 150 N-m (111 ft-lb).

Pressing the upper BJ (MotorCraft MCS-10339) in first using the big Snap-On press & cups only took a minute.

Removal was done with a BPH & pipe scrap.



Turns out it's much quicker & easier to just use a propane torch & the hammer, both for removal & installation.

Pressing the lower BJ (MotorCraft MCS-10253) in last, so it wasn't in the way of pressing the upper in (MotorCraft MCS-10339).

Removal was done with a BPH & pipe scrap.



The pipe, hammer, & torch are also quicker & easier for installation.

Upper Ball Joint: Ford F6TZ3V049AA, MC MCS10339, Spicer 2001257
Lower Ball Joint: Ford F6TZ3V050CB, MC MCS10253, Spicer 2001258, TRW JBJ7011
Camber Cam: ACDelco 49K6526, McQuay-Norris AA3951, Moog K80108
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

These are the same for all '80-96 D44IFS & D50IFS TTBs. This is how to remove the camber cams:



The easiest way to R&R the ball joints is with a torch (propane is hot enough) to expand the steering knuckle around the joint, then drive it out with a solid hammer hit. Same to put the new one back in.

Ball Joint Removal with a torch
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Ball joint presses are cumbersome, weak, and very slow, requiring a lot of physical effort especially if the ball joint doesn't come out. This is actually easier both on the mechanic and the ball joints; and it's quicker & cheaper than a press. It only requires a strong vise solidly-mounted. Mine is on a plate with two 2-inch square tubes at right angles (allowing the vise to be rotated to any position), which is then slid into a receiver welded to a column in my shop. So it's very solid.
1) This process applies equally to the lower ball joint, but the rest of the pics only show the upper. When working on the lower, aim the torch so as little of the flame as possible hits the ball joint body. This process works on the temperature DIFFERENCE between the knuckle (casting) and the ball joint cup. So heat the knuckle as fast as possible, and keep the joint as cool as possible.
2) The upper joint has no snap ring, and it's slightly recessed in the casting, making it easier to heat the casting without the flame hitting the joint.
3) A common propane torch is hot enough, but it takes a large flame to get a casting this large hot quickly. This torch head produces 3 flames, and they're aimed to put them against the casting for most of their length. The thinnest part of the casting is being heated, for the longest distance around the joint, to maximize the amount of swelling (loosening) of the casting.
4) To increase the difference in the temperature between the cup & casting, some cool water is poured into the shallow recess on top of the upper cup. When most of it has boiled away, a pipe drift is dropped through the lower joint's bore (the lower joint was removed first) and struck sharply with a heavy hammer.
5) It took about 4 strikes to get the joint out, but it's too hot to handle, which is why I'm using the pipe drift to pick it up.



Putting the new joints in is the same process, but the knuckle can be heated more because the joints aren't there. And the joints can be chilled (or frozen overnight) to increase the temperature difference, which equates to ease of knocking them in.

JY '90 F150 Dana44IFS TTB Tag