'84-96 fullsize Ford truck EFI Fuel Flow
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

.

Blue is high pressure; gray is low pressure. Supply lines are 3/8"; returns are 5/16". Most '94-96 have a resonator between the filter & the manifold, per this TSB:


Most '94-96 with dual tanks have an integral check valve on the high-pressure line at the tank; many '90-94 with dual tanks have a retrofit check valve in that location per this recall:

. .

For '90-04 dual-tank trucks that exhibit fuel transfer, replace the FDM in the tank that RECEIVES fuel. The 2nd-best FDM is the made-in-USA (NOT Brazil) Bosch 67000 (all '90-96 front tanks & Bronco) or 67003 (all '90-96 rear tanks).



'87-96 fuel filter Motorcraft FG872 long nipples work with both styles of quick-connect
'87-91 (short nipple) Motorcraft FG800A plastic duckbill quick-connects ONLY
Not all '84-86 will have a reservoir or an external filter.

For '90-96 trucks, continue reading the captions in this album by clicking NEXT near the top Left corner of the page. For '87-89 trucks, read the captions at this link:



See also:
. . . . . .

'92-96 Bronco Fuel Pump & Level Wiring
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Tank connectors & pinouts are shown here:



G100 is on the back of the core support directly above the body mount.



'90-91 similar
'87-89 ONLY has the high-pressure pump (mounted inside the frame rail under the driver's seat) wired between the IFS (XF3Z9341AA) & tank; those tank pumps are low-pressure, plumbed to the SFR near the frame pump.

See also:
. . . . . .

'92-96 (&'97 >8500GVWR) Gasoline F-series Dual Tank Switch
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
'92-96 (& '97 >8500GVWR) Switch (Gas & Diesel) Wells SW6445 (F2TB-9A050-AB)

For Broncos:



G100 is on the back of the core support directly above the body mount.



'90-91 EFI similar
'87-89 ONLY has the high-pressure pump between the IFS & tank select switch (mounted inside the frame rail under the driver's seat); its tank pumps are low-pressure, plumbed to the DFR near the frame pump
'87-91 Switch E7TZ-9A050-A

See also:
. . . . . . .

FDM & Fuel Pressure
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
Maximum fuel pressure is obtainable at WOT or the vacuum hose removed from the fuel pressure regulator.

The FDM connector shown is for '94-96; '90-93 use the older connector (WPT454) that mounts directly to the FDM plate.



For the 5.0L, 5.8L and 7.5L EFI engines, the in-tank mounted high pressure fuel pump is capable of supplying 105 liters (27.7 gallons) of fuel per hour at a working pressure of 270.0 kPa (39 psi). For the 4.9L EFI engine, the pump can supply 90 liters (23.7 gallons) per hour at 380 kPa (55 psi). The pump has an internal pressure relief valve to provide overpressure protection in the event the fuel flow becomes restricted. Overpressure is restricted to 850 kPa (123 psi).

The 4.9L will run fine with the same pressure as the V8s.

Test pressure at the fuel rail test port with a temporary screw-on pressure meter. Do not use push-on or permanently-mounted meters or gauges. NOTE: If no pressure is detected in fuel lines during test procedure, fuel pump should not be powered in excess of three minutes to avoid possible overheating of pump.

.

The DLC pinout at the bottom of this diagram DOES NOT APPLY TO '96 trucks since they're OBD-II. The '87-95 DLC is located under the L hood hinge. For more info, see these:
.

See this FSA:
.

...& this TSB:


To temporarily or permanently convert a '90-up 2-tank truck to a single tank with no damage & virtually no cost, read this caption:


See also:
MotorCraft 2016 Wiring Pigtail Guide

This is the valve head from the Fuel Delivery Module (FDM) used in '90-04 F-series & Broncos (and some other Ford products). This one is the first I've found in good enough shape to dismantle its valves. All the others have been abandoned for so long they're caked in stale gas varnish.

Surprisingly, the shuttle valve isn't stuck - the problem is the ruptured diaphragm that operates the shuttle valve. Apparently, it worked enough to let fuel return when this pump was running (as it should), but it also let fuel from the other pump leak in, and flow thru the venturi into this tank. The symptom was that THIS tank was able to run the engine, but it struggled when using the GOOD tank (because the good pump's fuel was leaking into this tank).

In any case, there is no repair - the FDM must be replaced, and even the cheapest ones come with a new fuel pump. Fortunately, the pump from this one can be saved for when the new one goes out. The best new FDM (when the Ford/MC isn't available) is Bosch, but only those made in USA (not Brazil). All '90-04 F-series front tanks & all '90-96 Broncos take 67000; F-series rears take 67003.

Alternatively, ANY working FDM top plate can be swapped in, making a junkyard fix very tempting. That's how I fixed this one for a several years.

See also:
. . .

To temporarily or permanently convert a '90-up 2-tank truck to a single tank, read this caption:

Fuel Delivery Module
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The FDM is mounted to the tank plate (with tubes), and the level sender (with arm & float) is screwed to both.



Short of spending ~$350 for a Ford hanger assembly (plate & FDM, NLA), the next-best replacement is the Bosch (OEM) 67000 ('90-96 Bronco rear & gas F-series front - also PFB2) or 67003 ('90-96 gas F-series rear - PFB3). Those made in Brazil are significantly different, and should be avoided. Buy only those made in USA.

The connector on this tank plate is the '94-95 stye.

Brazilian Bosch Fuel Delivery Module
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Short of spending ~$350 for a Ford hanger assembly (plate & FDM, NLA), the next-best replacement is the Bosch (OEM) 67000 ('90-96 Bronco rear & gas F-series front - also PFB2) or 67003 ('90-96 gas F-series rear - PFB3). Those made in Brazil are significantly different, and until Bosch US switched to buying Walbro pumps, I avoided these. Now, I'm not sure which is better...

See the REST of this photo album.

img]https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/1164710/thumbnail/fdms.jpg[/img]

Factory fuel pump motor from a '95 5.8L Bronco

V8 Fuel Pressure Port, Distributor, IAC, & Vacuum Tree (top R)

. .

The I6 test port is at the right rear of the engine, behind the intake cage near the evaporator cover & MAP.

To test fuel pressure, see the bottom of the first diagram & the TSB in the 2nd:
.

Fuel Pressure Gauge
A Sears/Craftsman gauge costs $35-55, but many parts stores will loan/rent tools like this for a deposit. To check pressure while driving, the gauge should be positioned so it's visible, but the driver should not WATCH the gauge. Watch the road, and only glance at the gauge briefly when symptoms appear.

This is a '98 4.6L car, but the idea is the same for all EFI vehicles. Some just don't have a test fitting, which makes connecting the gauge more challenging.



For '90-96 F-series & Bronco, read these:
. .

See also:
. . .

For '84-89 EFI trucks, see these captions:

The '93 frame-to-engine fuel line guide (under the driver's feet) uses riveted spring steel clips. The '95 uses snap-in plastic clips.

Tank Delete
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

To temporarily (or indefinitely) run any '90-96 dual-tank truck on 1 tank, it's necessary to plug both unused tank lines & the vapor line.

I used an old rear tank plate (damaged electrical connector was removed) as a blockoff for the fuel lines because it seals to the fuel lines without damaging or modifying them. After removing the plate/pump assembly from the tank & lines, and then removing the level sender & FDM from the plate, I heated both tubes to dry the old gas out & cook the varnish into ash. Then I used a brass bore brush to clean the tubes inside, and rinsed them with carb cleaner. Then I flipped it and melted rosin-core electrical solder into them so it pooled in the first bend, blocked the ends with a metal putty knife, and flipped it back so the solder hardened into a plug at the bottom end. This is with the truck running, so it works. Use a bolt or vacuum cap to plug the vapor line.

To UNdo it & use the pump plate again, just disconnect the lines, dump ALL the gas out of the tubes, heat the tubes to melt the solder, and let it run out. DO NOT put a torch to it while the fuel lines are connected, OR anywhere near the open fuel lines or tanks! Then press the plate into a working FDM reservoir, hang the level sender, and connect the wiring before re-installing the assembly into a tank.

For more info, read these captions:

. .

Canister Purge Valve (CANP/CPRV)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
The port farther from the connector goes to the throttle body or manifold; the one closer comes from the charcoal canister.

Beginning in some '95 F-series/Broncos, the VMV (LG/Bk wire) replaced the CANP (Gy/Y wire).



See also:
. . . . . .

Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0443 indicates a failure in the EVAP canister purge valve circuit.

Possible causes:
-- VPWR circuit open.
-- EVAP CANISTER PURGE open.
-- EVAP CANISTER PURGE shorted to PWR GND or SIG RTN.
-- Damaged EVAP canister purge valve.
-- Damaged PCM.

l Key off.
l Disconnect EVAP canister purge valve.
l Key on, engine off.
l Measure VPWR circuit (Red) voltage at EVAP canister purge valve harness connector.
l Key off.
l Was voltage greater than 10.5 volts?

Yes
GO to «HW2».

No
REPAIR open circuit. RESTORE vehicle. COMPLETE PCM. Reset to clear DTCs. RERUN «Quick Test».
_________________________________________________________________
The Fuel Tank Vapor System -

Gasoline is extremely volatile in almost all environments, and even diesel is aromatic. Since these vapors can be flammable or noxious, they must be contained & routed to the engine to be burned. But they are produced even when the vehicle is unused for long periods, so a simple tube from the fuel tank to the engine would still allow them to vent out the air filter. Also, during hot weather or violent maneuvers, the quantity of vapor generated can exceed the engine's capacity at low RPM, so the vapors must be stored & their flow regulated.

The system begins in the fuel tank where one or more valves are used to vent vapor pressure, but also to exclude liquid from the vapor system due to overfilling, slosh, or rollover. There may also be a pressure sensor to monitor the system's operation & effectiveness, and/or a vent valve (CANV solenoid, or built into the cap) to allow fresh air [b]into[/b] the fuel tank or vapor system. As vapor exits the tank, it flows thru a tube to a canister Motorcraft CX741 or Motorcraft W0133-1698805-MTR containing carbon (activated charcoal), which absorbs the fuel vapor, but allows air to pass. Depending on the size of the fuel tank, there may be several canisters, or a larger canister. Older canisters are vented, but they're known to collect water, so most modern canisters are sealed. Another tube leads from the canister toward the engine's intake, but it may contain a regulator valve (CANP solenoid, or VMV). The vapor system may also combine with the PCV system at this point.

Being virtually a zero-maintenance system, most faults are simple valve failures, hose leaks, or mechanical damage (collision, road debris, etc.).

Faults in the evaporative systems are usually detected by the use of a special machine which pumps a non-toxic non-flammable high-visibility smoke into the vapor lines to make leaks evident. But a common source of evaporative codes on '97-04 vehicles is the operator not securing the fuel filler cap. Earlier vehicles didn't detect this, and later vehicles are designed to exclude this from turning on the CEL.

Carbon Canister (aka Charcoal Canister, Vapor Canister)
Motorcraft CX741
Motorcraft W0133-1698805-MTR

The activated charcoal inside the canister absorbs gasoline vapor from the fuel tank (& in certain applications, crankcase vapors) until the CANP (canister purge) valve or VMV (vapor management valve) opens, allowing manifold vacuum to pull fresh air in thru the dust cap, collecting the stored vapors, & drawing them into the engine to be burned.

Any leak in the vacuum lines to or from the canister will result in dirty air entering the intake manifold, and possibly water or other contaminants.

The Fuel Tank Vapor System -

Gasoline is extremely volatile in almost all environments, and even diesel is aromatic. Since these vapors can be flammable or noxious, they must be contained & routed to the engine to be burned. But they are produced even when the vehicle is unused for long periods, so a simple tube from the fuel tank to the engine would still allow them to vent out the air filter. Also, during hot weather or violent maneuvers, the quantity of vapor generated can exceed the engine's capacity at low RPM, so the vapors must be stored & their flow regulated.

The system begins in the fuel tank where one or more valves are used to vent vapor pressure, but also to exclude liquid from the vapor system due to overfilling, slosh, or rollover. There may also be a pressure sensor to monitor the system's operation & effectiveness, and/or a vent valve (CANV solenoid, or built into the cap) to allow fresh air INTO the fuel tank or vapor system. As vapor exits the tank, it flows thru a tube to a canister containing carbon (activated charcoal), which absorbs the fuel vapor, but allows air to pass. Depending on the size of the fuel tank, there may be several canisters, or a single larger canister. Older canisters are vented, but they're known to collect water, so most modern canisters are sealed. Another tube leads from the canister toward the engine's intake, but it may contain a regulator valve (CANP solenoid, or VMV). The vapor system may also combine with the PCV system at this point.

Being virtually a zero-maintenance system, most faults are simple valve failures, hose leaks, or mechanical damage (collision, road debris, etc.).

Faults in the evaporative systems are usually detected by the use of a special machine which pumps a non-toxic non-flammable high-visibility smoke into the vapor lines to make leaks evident. But a common source of evaporative codes on '97-04 vehicles is the operator not securing the fuel filler cap. Earlier vehicles didn't detect this, and later vehicles are designed to exclude this from turning on the CEL.

See also:
.

Before madly ripping out all the emissions system systems on your vehicle, read this article.

'87-95 4.9L MAP Vapor System with CANP
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The Evaporative Emission (EVAP) system prevents fuel vapor build-up in the sealed fuel tank. Fuel vapors trapped in the sealed tank are vented through the vapor valve assembly on top of the tank. The vapors leave the valve assembly through a single vapor line and continue to the EVAP canister (located in the engine compartment, in the rear of vehicle near luggage compartment area or along the frame rail) for storage until the vapors are purged to the engine for burning.

There are 2 types of Evaporative Emission (EVAP) systems: the Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Purge Flow system using a CANP from '87-95 with MAP EFI; the Vapor Management Flow system using a VMV from '94-96 with MAF EFI.

Physical damage, leaks, and missing items are the common causes of evaporative emission system faults. Fill cap damage or contamination that renders the pressure-vacuum valve inoperative may result in deformation of the tank. Care should always be exercised to make sure the fill cap is in working order.

See also:

'87-95 5.0L MAP Vapor System with CANP
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The Evaporative Emission (EVAP) system prevents fuel vapor build-up in the sealed fuel tank. Fuel vapors trapped in the sealed tank are vented through the vapor valve assembly on top of the tank. The vapors leave the valve assembly through a single vapor line and continue to the EVAP canister (located in the engine compartment, in the rear of vehicle near luggage compartment area or along the frame rail) for storage until the vapors are purged to the engine for burning.

There are 2 types of Evaporative Emission (EVAP) systems: the Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Purge Flow system using a CANP from '87-95 with MAP EFI; the Vapor Management Flow system using a VMV from '94-96 with MAF EFI.

Physical damage, leaks, and missing items are the common causes of evaporative emission system faults. Fill cap damage or contamination that renders the pressure-vacuum valve inoperative may result in deformation of the tank. Care should always be exercised to make sure the fill cap is in working order.

See also:
.

'87-95 5.8L MAP Vapor System with CANP
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The Evaporative Emission (EVAP) system prevents fuel vapor build-up in the sealed fuel tank. Fuel vapors trapped in the sealed tank are vented through the vapor valve assembly on top of the tank. The vapors leave the valve assembly through a single vapor line and continue to the EVAP canister (located in the engine compartment, in the rear of vehicle near luggage compartment area or along the frame rail) for storage until the vapors are purged to the engine for burning.

There are 2 types of Evaporative Emission (EVAP) systems: the Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Purge Flow system using a CANP from '87-95 with MAP EFI; the Vapor Management Flow system using a VMV from '94-96 with MAF EFI.

Physical damage, leaks, and missing items are the common causes of evaporative emission system faults. Fill cap damage or contamination that renders the pressure-vacuum valve inoperative may result in deformation of the tank. Care should always be exercised to make sure the fill cap is in working order.

See also:
.

Fuel Lines 95 Bronco (all EFI similar)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
Supply (pressure) lines are blue; return lines are gray.

Same as '90-96 single tank gas (& '97 over 8500GVWR)

To temporarily or permanently convert a '90-up 2-tank truck to a single tank, read this caption:


See also:
. . . . .

The Fuel Tank Vapor System -

Gasoline is extremely volatile in almost all environments, and even diesel is aromatic. Since these vapors can be flammable or noxious, they must be contained & routed to the engine to be burned. But they are produced even when the vehicle is unused for long periods, so a simple tube from the fuel tank to the engine would still allow them to vent out the air filter. Also, during hot weather or violent maneuvers, the quantity of vapor generated can exceed the engine's capacity at low RPM, so the vapors must be stored & their flow regulated.

The system begins in the fuel tank where one or more valves are used to vent vapor pressure, but also to exclude liquid from the vapor system due to overfilling, slosh, or rollover. There may also be a pressure sensor to monitor the system's operation & effectiveness, and/or a vent valve (CANV solenoid, or built into the cap) to allow fresh air [b]into[/b] the fuel tank or vapor system. As vapor exits the tank, it flows thru a tube to a canister Motorcraft CX741 or Motorcraft W0133-1698805-MTR containing carbon (activated charcoal), which absorbs the fuel vapor, but allows air to pass. Depending on the size of the fuel tank, there may be several canisters, or a larger canister. Older canisters are vented, but they're known to collect water, so most modern canisters are sealed. Another tube leads from the canister toward the engine's intake, but it may contain a regulator valve (CANP solenoid, or VMV). The vapor system may also combine with the PCV system at this point.

Being virtually a zero-maintenance system, most faults are simple valve failures, hose leaks, or mechanical damage (collision, road debris, etc.).

Faults in the evaporative systems are usually detected by the use of a special machine which pumps a non-toxic non-flammable high-visibility smoke into the vapor lines to make leaks evident. But a common source of evaporative codes on '97-04 vehicles is the operator not securing the fuel filler cap. Earlier vehicles didn't detect this, and later vehicles are designed to exclude this from turning on the CEL.

See also:
. . . . .

93 F-series Fuel Lines

'93-95 Lightning Evaporative Emissions

Vapor Management Valve (VMV) replaces CANP on some '94-95 & all '96 trucks under 8500GVWR
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The EVAP Vapor Management Valve (VMV) is the part of the Vapor Management Flow system that is controlled by the PCM. This valve controls the flow of vapors (purging) from the EVAP canister to the intake manifold during various engine operating modes. The EVAP canister purge valve is a normally closed valve. The Vapor Management Flow system consists of a fuel tank, fuel filler cap, fuel vapor valve, EVAP canister, Vapor Management Valve (VMV), intake air tube assembly, powertrain control module (PCM) and connecting wires and fuel vapor hoses. Operation of the system is as follows:

1. The Vapor Management Flow system uses inputs from upon the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor, the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor, the mass air flow (MAF) sensor and the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) to provide information about engine operating conditions to the PCM. The conditions necessary to activate the Vapor Management Flow system is that the engine must be warm, stable, running at a moderate load and rpm, at open or part throttle position, and in close loop fuel control. The PCM deactivates the fuel vapor management flow during idle or whenever a failure is detected in the EVAP canister purge valve or fuel vapor management flow required input.
2. The PCM calculates the difference between the idle speed air requested at a high purge flow and at a no purge flow. If the difference is below a calibrated threshold, flow is inferred not to be occurring properly, and the PCM indicates an evaporative emission system malfunction with a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC).
3. The PCM outputs a variable duty cycle signal (between 0% and 100%) to the solenoid on the EVAP canister purge valve.

V8 Vapor Management Valve (VMV, Ford F5TZ9C915A, Motorcraft CX1549) Connections (4.9L typical)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

When the fuel tank cools, fresh air is drawn in through the 1-way valve in the cap. As it warms, vapor flows out through the rollover/vapor valve where it collects in the activated charcoal of the evaporative canister. When commanded open by the EEC, the VMV allows intake manifold vacuum to draw fresh air in through the canister caps where it purges the fuel vapor from the charcoal into the engine where it is burned.

The VMV performs the same function as the CANP, but due to being a vacuum-assisted valve, it is capable of a higher flow rate.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
The Fuel Tank Vapor System -



Gasoline is extremely volatile in almost all environments, and even diesel is aromatic. Since these vapors can be flammable or noxious, they must be contained & routed to the engine to be burned. But they are produced even when the vehicle is unused for long periods, so a simple tube from the fuel tank to the engine would still allow them to vent out the air filter. Also, during hot weather or violent maneuvers, the quantity of vapor generated can exceed the engine's capacity at low RPM, so the vapors must be stored & their flow regulated.

The system begins in the fuel tank where one or more valves are used to vent vapor pressure, but also to exclude liquid from the vapor system due to overfilling, slosh, or rollover. There may also be a pressure sensor to monitor the system's operation & effectiveness, and/or a vent valve (CANV solenoid, or built into the cap) to allow fresh air INTO the fuel tank or vapor system. As vapor exits the tank, it flows thru a tube to a canister containing carbon (activated charcoal), which absorbs the fuel vapor, but allows air to pass. Depending on the size of the fuel tank, there may be several canisters, or a single larger canister. Older canisters are vented, but they're known to collect water, so most modern canisters are sealed. Another tube leads from the canister toward the engine's intake, but it may contain a regulator valve (CANP solenoid, or VMV). The vapor system may also combine with the PCV system at this point.

Being virtually a zero-maintenance system, most faults are simple valve failures, hose leaks, or mechanical damage (collision, road debris, etc.).

Faults in the evaporative systems are usually detected by the use of a special machine which pumps a non-toxic non-flammable high-visibility smoke into the vapor lines to make leaks evident. But a common source of evaporative codes on '97-04 vehicles is the operator not securing the fuel filler cap. Earlier vehicles didn't detect this, and later vehicles are designed to exclude this from turning on the CEL.

Before madly ripping out all the emissions system systems on your vehicle, read this article.



See also:
. . . . . .

Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0443 indicates a failure in the EVAP canister purge valve circuit.

Possible causes:
-- VPWR circuit open.
-- EVAP CANISTER PURGE open.
-- EVAP CANISTER PURGE shorted to PWR GND or SIG RTN.
-- Damaged EVAP canister purge valve.
-- Damaged PCM.

l Key off.
l Disconnect EVAP canister purge valve.
l Key on, engine off.
l Measure VPWR circuit voltage at EVAP canister purge valve harness connector.
l Key off.
l Was voltage greater than 10.5 volts?

Yes
GO to HW2.

No
REPAIR open circuit. RESTORE vehicle. COMPLETE PCM. Reset to clear DTCs. RERUN Quick Test.

The larger surface-mounted C441 (WPT454) was used until '93; in '94, it switched to the smaller round inline connector. (Pump side: WPT330/WPT335; Truck side: WPT111/WPT807/WPT818 )
. .

For full instructions on the fuel pump access hole, see this:


See also:
MotorCraft 2016 Wiring Pigtail Guide

Fuel Pump Connector comparison

.

Early EFI Fuel Pump Connectors C441 (WPT-454) used through '93. '94-96 use the same wire colors, but a smaller round gray inline connector.



See also:



Single-tank applications (including Bronco) use the FRONT tank colors, except Y/Wh gauge power.



To temporarily or permanently convert a '90-up 2-tank truck to a single tank, read this caption:


See also:
MotorCraft 2016 Wiring Pigtail Guide

'87-96 Fuel Cap w/tether Ford F4TZ-9030-C (MotorCraft FC920) or Motorad MGC817T. Also w/o tether Motorad MGC817, Gates 31615 ACDelco 12F46 Stant 10819.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The fuel fill cap is used to prevent fuel spill and close the evaporative/fuel system to atmosphere. It also serves as the source at which the evaporative emission service kit can be attached to check evaporative emission system leakage. Fill cap damage or contamination that renders the pressure-vacuum valve inoperative may result in deformation of the tank. Care should always be exercised to make sure the fill cap is in working order.

The locking version is Ford F67Z9030DA or Motorad MGC900 and MC FC935 but it requires an additional pushpin for the tether. Also single Stant 10501 or Gates 31734 or [urll=https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C5CEKC]Motorad MGC791[/url] or pair MotoRad MGC791SK.

'87-96 Filler Neck

See also:
. . .

The early-style fuel filler neck (EOTZ-9034-A) has a thin flexible plastic tube slid into a steel guide at the top of the steel pipe that carries air out of the tank to the vent hole above the flap for the pump nozzle. It's common for this tube to kink or collapse, causing the tank to fill more slowly, and the gas pump to shut off frequently.

See also:
. .

Fuel Filler Necks

Early trucks use a small corrugated plastic vent tube tucked into the top of the steel filler neck (EOTZ-9034-A) which can kink, but it can't block fuel from entering the tank, or form an air seal. Later trucks use a heavy plastic filler hose inside the steel vent neck (E7TZ-9034-M), which allows MUCH easier filling, but if it softens & collapses, filling will become VERY slow.

The necks are interchangeable, so the newer neck is a good upgrade for an old truck, especially if filling is becoming a problem. It also allows the use of a more modern gas cap.
Pre-'87 Stant caps include: 10593/11593, 10818/11818
'87-96 Motorcraft FC920 standard fuel cap; Motorcraft FC935 locking fuel cap (different tether end); Stant caps include: 10501/11501 (locking pre-vent), 10591/11591 (locking), 10819/11819 (pre-vent, non lock), 10817/11817 (standard)
Stant caps do not accept factory '87-96 tether

See also:

. . .
___________________________________________________________________
All vehicles are equipped with a restricted opening on the fuel tank filler pipes (9034) that allows only a non-leaded fuel nozzle to be inserted.

The fuel tank filler pipe openings for the fuel tanks (9002) on trucks with multiport fuel injection (MFI) engines (6007) have been made smaller to prevent accidental filling with other than unleaded fuel. Gasoline pumps in the United States and Canada dispensing unleaded fuel are equipped with nozzles to accommodate the smaller filler opening on the fuel tank filler pipe.

The restrictor in the fuel tank filler pipe consists of a narrow opening in the fuel tank filler pipe covered by a spring steel trap door. The smaller non-leaded fuel nozzle will fit through the narrow opening and push the trap door aside, allowing normal filling. Leaded fuel nozzles will not fit through the narrow opening. The tank being filled to capacity causes a fuel backup and automatic nozzle shutoff.

The restricted fuel tank filler pipe is manufactured as an assembly, and must be serviced by removal and replacement with a new part. Fuel tank filler pipes are not to be modified in any way.

The fill limiting system is designed to permit an approximate 10-12 percent tank volume air space when the fuel tank is filled to capacity. This air space provides for thermal expansion of fuel as well as being an aid to the in-tank vapor vent system.

Expansion of fuel due to temperature increases or overfilling ("topping off") causes fuel overflow at the fuel tank filler cap (9030) when the vehicle is standing or the fuel tank filler cap is removed. To minimize this condition, it is recommended that the amount of fuel put in the fuel tank when filling be limited to the automatic pump shutoff. If vehicle has two fuel tanks, use fuel from both fuel tanks after fill-up to reduce fuel levels.

SOLD Fuel Filler Neck from '95 Bronco

Fits all '80-96 fleetside aft-axle tank. Includes original mounting screws, & cap with tether & grommet.

MotorCraft Cap '87-6/22/93 FC909; 6/22/93-96 FC920; W0133-1698871-MTR
Locking Cap: Stant 10501/11501; Gates 31734; Motorad MGC-900; ACDelco 12F20L

Filler Neck Comparison
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The steel is the same for gas trucks behind the axle SRW, but the rubber is different.

When a truck (or even just a tank) is abandoned with gas in it, the souring fuel (especially with ethanol) attacks the rubber fill hose inside the neck, and the rollover valve grommet.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

This truck's tanks were slow to fill, so I replaced the soft inner fill hoses with common 1" PEX from a hardware store that I formed with a heat gun to match the original contours. I checked my bends by hanging the fillers temporarily without the outer rubber hoses.

IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Fuel Tank mounting & rollover valves
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
Despite the details shown here, MOST of the straps I've found are installed the other way, with the nuts at the FRONT.

E1TZ-9047-K Tank-to-Neck Filler Hose
F2TZ-9002-M Tank, 32gal '92-96 (large hole)
FOTZ-9002-D Tank, 32gal '90-91 (large hole)
EOTZ-9002-G Tank, 32gal '80-89 (small hole)
D8TZ-9A147-A Skid Plate, 32gal '80-96
D8TZ-9A147-B Skid Plate, 25gal
D8TZ-9092-A Tank Strap

34976 Nut (13mm crimped w/integral washer)
N851380 Bolt (13mm head w/integral washer MC9.8 )
382873 Washer (flat thick)
N620482 Nut (15mm crimped w/integral washer)

All fuel tank vapor valves make use of a small orifice that tends to allow only vapor and not fuel to pass into the line running forward to the vapor storage canister. This assembly mounts directly to the fuel tank using a rubber seal.

Fuel vapors trapped in the sealed fuel tank are vented through the orificed vapor valve assembly in the top of the tank. The vapors leave the valve assembly through a single vapor line and continue to the carbon canister for storage, until they are purged to the engine.

The vapor valve assembly mounted on the top of the fuel tank is used to control the flow of fuel vapor entering the fuel tank vapor delivery line which conducts vapor forward to the canister in normal circumstances. If due to extreme conditions, excessive pressure is generated inside the tank, the purge port opens up, allowing fuel vapor to escape to the atmosphere, and stabilizes pressure inside the tank. The valve assembly has a head valve which prevents the fuel tank from overfilling during refueling operation. The valve assembly also has a spring supported float assembly, which prevents liquid fuel from entering the vapor delivery line during severe handling, steep grades or in the event of vehicle rollover.

The fuel fill cap (F4TZ-9030-C '87-96; E1AZ-9030-A '78-86 w/o lock; D6AZ-9030-B '78-86 locking) is sealed and includes a built-in pressure-vacuum relief valve. Fuel system vacuum relief is provided after 3.5 kPa (0.50 psi) and pressure relief after 11.0 kPa (1.6 psi). Under normal operating conditions, the fill cap operates as a check valve, allowing air to enter the tank as fuel is used, while preventing vapors from escaping the tank through the cap.

The Fuel Tank Vapor System -

Gasoline is extremely volatile in almost all environments, and even diesel is aromatic. Since these vapors can be flammable or noxious, they must be contained & routed to the engine to be burned. But they are produced even when the vehicle is unused for long periods, so a simple tube from the fuel tank to the engine would still allow them to vent out the air filter. Also, during hot weather or violent maneuvers, the quantity of vapor generated can exceed the engine's capacity at low RPM, so the vapors must be stored & their flow regulated.

The system begins in the fuel tank where one or more valves (4.9L/5.0L Valve E7DZ-9B593-A & Grommet F6TZ-9B076-AA; 5.8L/7.5L Valve E8UZ-9B593-A & Grommet E8UZ-9B076-A) are used to vent vapor pressure, but also to exclude liquid from the vapor system due to overfilling, slosh, or rollover. There may also be a pressure sensor to monitor the system's operation & effectiveness, and/or a vent valve (CANV solenoid, or built into the cap) to allow fresh air [b]into[/b] the fuel tank or vapor system. As vapor exits the tank, it flows thru a tube to a canister containing carbon (activated charcoal), which absorbs the fuel vapor, but allows air to pass. Depending on the size of the fuel tank, there may be several canisters, or a larger canister. Older canisters are vented, but they're known to collect water, so most modern canisters are sealed. Another tube leads from the canister toward the engine's intake, but it may contain a regulator valve (CANP solenoid, or VMV). The vapor system may also combine with the PCV system at this point.

Since the fuel tank is ultimately connected to manifold vacuum, the filler cap must be vented to prevent the tank from collapsing in the event of a failure that applies continuous vacuum to it.

Being virtually a zero-maintenance system, most faults are simple valve failures, hose leaks, or mechanical damage (collision, road debris, etc.). A collapse of the fill hose or blockage of the filler neck's vent port can cause slow filling & "burping" - neither of those symptoms indicates any problem with the vapor system.

. .

Faults in the evaporative systems are usually detected by the use of a special machine which pumps a non-toxic non-flammable high-visibility smoke into the vapor lines to make leaks evident. But a common source of evaporative codes on '97-04 vehicles is the operator not securing the fuel filler cap. Earlier vehicles didn't detect this, and later vehicles are designed to exclude this from turning on the CEL. They typically have a separate warning for the fuel cap.

See also:
. . .

Bronco Tank Vapor Hose

It takes slightly more than a foot to connect the steel vapor line on the frame to the rollover valve on the tank of '80-96 Broncos. If the hose is too short it can break the rollover valve. The valve for 5.8L trucks costs over $100 new, but it's getting hard-to-find.

This hose is Gates 4219XL, which doesn't seem to be made any more, but other fuel/vapor/emissions hose IS made. Use 3/8"(10mm) fuel/emissions/vapor/PCV hose for the vapor line between the tank & charcoal canister. Do not use coolant, vacuum, ATF, PSF, or silicone hose.

Vapor Valves

The smaller valve (E7DZ-9B593-A) uses a thicker (smaller I.D.) grommet (E3EC9B076AA or F6TZ-9B076-AA) to fit in the same fuel tank hole as the larger valve (E8UZ-9B593-A) with a thinner grommet (E8UA-9B076-AA or E8UZ-9B076-A).

.

To remove the tank, begin by disconnecting the wiring and vent line, & removing most of the skid plate bolts. Most Broncos use bolts with a 10mm head & 13mm nut. Most '80-96 pickups use only straps, with a 13mm nut on TOP of the crossmember.

For more info, see this album:
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/2742/33276

Filler Neck
Loosen the hose clamp at the tank & pull the outer filler neck off the tank. There is another hard plastic hose inside ('87-96), which also must be guided out of the tank.

The extra bolts in the body are for the dealer-option 3rd-row jump seats & belts.

For pickups, see this & the NEXT dozen:

Fittings
With the tank lowered, the fuel lines can be disconnected using the appropriate tool. I prefer the small scissor (5/16" & 3/8"). The large scissor is for the fuel rail fittings, and some A/C quick-connects. Older trucks use a duckbill plastic clip to retain the fittings, so only a flathead screwdriver is needed.

'93 Bronco Tank Details
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Recall check valve (1L3Z-9J274-AA) prevents fuel transfer between tanks (until it wears out, like this one has).

Ford has been using hard nylon fuel tubing since the early 80s - I don't know why anyone is still using rubber, but I'm through with it. Modern gasahol just tears it up, creating more work & EXPENSE than just converting before you notice any problems. I replaced all but the pump-to-carb tube on my lawn mower last year with normal rubber, and it's already just as bad as the original hose was after 7 years, so I'm not messing around any more. I'll probably change all the MGB's hose before I put the head back on it (another victim of gasahol).

This is factory '85-91 fuel tubing, and it's what's inside the factory '92-up braided stainless. It's impervious to ethanol, so I actually bought this for my lawn mower.

'86-91 Fuel Lines

Garter Spring Safety Clips w/tethers
9mm E7AZ9A317A (E7AZ9A317AA)
12.5mm E7AZ9A317B (E7AZ9A317BA)

.

Fuel Line Fittings
The large scissor tool works best on garter springs; the small scissor works best on quick-disconnects. The only approved lubricant for fuel system O-rings is clean motor oil.

DO NOT USE SILICONE GREASE on any part of the fuel system. It does NOT dissolve in gas, so it can block the fuel filter &/or injector screens.

These fittings are known to stick when fuel deposits build up between the O-rings, making it very difficult to pull them apart. But pulling them apart (WITH the correct tool inserted to hold the garter spring out) is the only way to separate them. After they're apart, the deposits can be cleaned (Berryman's B12 is very effective) to make assembly & later separation easier. Again: the only approved lubricant for the fuel system is clean motor oil.

Garter Spring Safety Clips w/tethers
9mm E7AZ9A317A (E7AZ9A317AA)
12.5mm E7AZ9A317B (E7AZ9A317BA)

'92-96 Fuel Lines (gas)

Wash & dry the top of the pump plate before disconnecting the lines or loosening the lock ring. Before attempting to disconnect the fuel lines, wash the dirt out and read this caption:


After thoroughly blasting the mud out with a garden hose, shop air, brake cleaner; push the fuel line HARD onto the fitting (pump or filter) to relieve the catches, & rotate it to break the O-rings loose. While holding it on the fitting, insert the release tool as far as it will go (this one isn't there yet) to open the catches. While holding the tool HARD against the stop ring, work the line off the tool & fitting. It may be necessary to rinse the dirt out of the line end to allow the catches to open.

Blue supply lines are 3/8"; gray return lines are 5/16".

Quick-Connect Cleaning
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Before putting a tool into a fuel line quick-connect, take a few minutes to blast out as much dirt, sand, & gravel as possible so the bails inside can be released. Anything that's under the bails' fingers can cause them to be bent by any tool, which makes them MUCH-harder to release. DO NOT USE solvents like WD40, penetrants like PBBlaster and LiquidWrench, flowable grease, or silicone grease. Brake cleaner & carb cleaner are OK, but not as good as, and much more-expensive than water.

F-series front tanks are fairly easy to blast from the passenger wheelwell shooting across the frame, as is the rear tank's lock ring. Blasting the rear quick-connects is harder without removing the bed, which is a good idea anyway. Read this page:

Quick-Disconnect Fittings
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The fittings at the '92-up fuel filter seem to be problematic for most people (including me) and I couldn't find any good diagrams, so I've made this.

Step 1: For the best chance of getting it apart on the first try, start by washing the dirt out of the fittings; a pressure washer is the best. Then push the coupling together HARD so the fingers of the bail are NOT touching the catch ring on the filter.

Step 2: While holding the coupling firmly together, insert the tool fully (I prefer the regular or low-profile scissor). It may be necessary to rotate the tool so its gap does NOT align with any of the fingers, thus holding them all clear of the catch ring.



Step 3: With the tool fully against the catch ring, pull the filter & tool out of the coupling.

If the fingers are not free of the catch ring before the tool is inserted (Step A) or if there's dirt behind even one of them, they may be bent (Step B) semipermanently locking the coupling together. If this happens, the coupling can sometimes be forcibly separated, but this severely damages the bail. With some effort, a small pick tool can be inserted between the filter nipple & the coupling (Step C) and the bail can be removed from the coupling (Step D). After the filter is removed, the bail can be bent back into shape & reinstalled into the coupling to receive the new filter.
.

Replacement 10.5mm spring bails are available from Ford as E9UZ-9B307-B. Dorman also offers them in 10.5mm & 13mm, and as a pack of 3ea of both sizes.

3/8" hairpin clip 2F1Z-9A317-BA Dorman 800-004 (5-pk)
5/16" hairpin clip 2F1Z-9A317-AA Dorman 800-003 (5-pk)

There are many versions of each tool shown, and there are other tools available including a set that will work over the fuel tank. Prices range from ~$8 for a set of 6 collar tools to ~$25 for the low-profile scissor.

When installing the new filter, apply clean motor oil to the filter nipples so they slide into the O-rings more easily, without distorting or damaging them. Never use ANY other lubricant anywhere on the fuel system, particularly NOT silicone grease.

Another common problem is the use of the wrong filter. Older ('84-89) filters that are designed for the plastic hairpin fitting have a MUCH shorter nipple, which doesn't allow any tool to be inserted between the filter body & the coupling. One of the few options is to CAREFULLY cut the nipple off the filter (without generating any sparks, and with a fire extinguisher at the ready) to allow a tool in to remove the nipple from the coupling. The other option is to simply rip the lines off the filter and then repair/replace the damaged bails.

This filter is for plastic hairpin fittings on older trucks - the correct filter for this truck has much longer nipples. Now that this stainless fitting is locked on, there's no room for the safety clip, or for a tool to release the fitting. The only ways to remove it are 1) to pull or pry until the bail inside crumples, or 2) to cut the nipple off the filter so a tool can be inserted. But the risk of sparks is extremely high when cutting metal, so the filter body must be cut open first to drain the fuel & remove the paper. A handy fire extinguisher &/or water hose are still required.

'87-96 fuel filter Motorcraft FG872 long nipples work with both styles of quick-connect
'87-91 (short nipple) FG1060 or Motorcraft FG800A plastic duckbill quick-connects ONLY

See also:
. .

Fuel Bail Repair

This stainless fuel quick-connect was used on Ford trucks from '92 to at least '97, and it can be troublesome. It requires not only special tools that weren't necessary for the older plastic fittings; it also requires a filter with longer nipples.

. . . .

Connecting to an older filter prevents any tool from releasing the bail, so the only relatively-safe way to disconnect it is to pull the line until the bail's fingers collapse, hopefully allowing the nipple to come out. If not, the nipple must then be cut or broken off the filter (risking sparks & fire) before digging the bail out to release the nipple from the fitting.

'87-96 fuel filter Motorcraft FG872 long nipples work with both styles of quick-connect
'87-91 (short nipple) Motorcraft FG800A plastic hairpin quick-connects ONLY



But even with the correct filter, the fitting can still jam due to dirt building up inside the fitting, preventing the fingers from fully retracting & clearing the nipple. That's what happened to this one - the mud inside is visible in the top photo, as is the bent finger on the bail (red pointer).
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
In either case, repairing or replacing the bail is relatively easy once the nipple is out of the fitting.

1. Use a pick or needle-nose pliers to remove the bail from the fitting. It must be pushed INTO the fitting until its outer lip clears the fitting's lip. Then bend the bail slightly inward all the way around, working it up & out.
2. Pull the bail out and inspect the fingers. Use pliers & a round die (like a socket in a vise) to straighten each finger, and curve the ring smoothly. If it can't be re-shaped, buy a replacement fitting and transfer its bail into the original fitting. Note the mud packed inside which prevented the fingers from fully retracting.
3. With the fitting inverted, brush & rinse all the dirt out, allowing it to drain OUT of the fitting instead of into the fuel line. Use carb cleaner to rinse any residue or contamination out of the lines.
4. After ensuring that no dirt or debris remains inside the fitting, apply a few drops of clean motor oil to the 2 O-rings deeper inside the line, and reinsert the bail so that it snaps into place behind the fitting's lip.
5. Make sure that each long, thin finger lies flat against the wall of the fitting and rests against the flat face at the back (dark blue pointer). Each short, wide finger (light blue pointer) should angle slightly inward to engage the ring on the nipple.

In the future, use a garden hose or carb cleaner to rinse the mud out of the fitting before attempting to insert the tool. Never use penetrating oil or silicone grease near the fuel system O-rings.

Replacement 10.5mm spring bails are available from Ford as E9UZ-9B307-B. Dorman also offers them in 10.5mm & 13mm, and as a pack of 3ea of both sizes.

3/8" hairpin clip 2F1Z-9A317-BA Dorman 800-004 (5-pk)
5/16" hairpin clip 2F1Z-9A317-AA Dorman 800-003 (5-pk)

Clean
Before opening the tank, buy a NEW O-ring and wash any dirt away from the pump plate.

Lock Ring
Cleaning also makes it much easier to turn the ring.

Use a non-sparking tool to turn the ring, like a brass drift & dead-blow hammer.

Unlock Ring
A non-sparking drift is preferred, but with some water still on the tank, the chance of fire is low. Carefully tap each of the ring's drive tabs CCW working around the ring frequently.

.

The pump mounting plate rests on the big rubber O-ring, which rests on the tank lip. The lock ring is between the pump plate & the tabs, which are welded to the tank. So the O-ring is the "spring" that holds the ring tight up against the tabs. If the ring won't rotate due to dirt &/or rust, use a hammer & drift to knock the ring & plate straight down so the rust & grit are released from the tabs & plate, but NOT enough to bend anything. Just make it vibrate. Wet the ring & tabs with motor oil to work in & rinse some of the grit out. Once all the tabs have "broken" free, the ring should rotate, using a hammer & drift. Use a shallower angle for more rotation (torque), or a steeper angle to release the ring from the tabs.

Don't do ANY of this until you have a replacement O-ring in-hand.

FDM Removal
Once the lock ring is removed, break the O-ring seal & lift the FDM from the tank. The reservoir will spill, and the pickup screen will spray fuel as it comes out. The O-ring should never be re-used.

That white object in the tank behind the float arm is a piece of silicone that somehow found its way into my tank. There are a few others in there, and occasionally, the truck would stall when they got pulled around the pickup filter, and blocked the flow of gas into the pump. I guess vandals stuffed them into the pump nozzle at the gas station.

To temporarily or permanently convert a '90-up 2-tank truck to a single tank, read this caption:

Spoiled Gas Residue
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

After ~5 years, gasoline sours and eventually turns to this foul tar-like residue, destroying the pump, FDM, level sender, & usually the float - if not the tank itself.

A tank can often be salvaged by adding fresh gas (87 octane - never premium) and solvents like Berryman's B12 pour-in, and cleaners like Techron. Especially for 4.9L engines (which are more-sensitive to fuel varnish than others), it's also a good idea to add some top-end lube like Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) and lead substitute. Filter replacement should be done more-frequently until the tank is clean.

If the varnish has dried, it can often be removed by pressure-washing, followed by vacuuming (with brushing if necessary). Water is very easy to remove when it's the only thing in the tank because the tank can be heated; either by sunlight, incandescent shop-light (drop light), or any type of heater. A steady flow of air into the tank (as by shop vac blowing into the filler neck) speeds drying.

If the tank must be replaced, avoid Spectra & Airtex, which are the worst garbage brands of fuel system parts. Dorman may cost slightly more, but it usually has LLT warranty.

SOLD F150 Rear Tank ('90-91)

Actual size: 35x27x8" @ 31.5 lbs

I cleaned most of the goo off the bottom.

SOLD Bronco Gas Tank

Large sender hole for '90-96 w/FDM, and some older. Suitable for upgrade from older dual-pump system, and to upgrade F-series rear tank.

Fuel lines shown are not included. For associated parts, see these:

. .

For more info, see this album:
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/2742/12737-4

Reservoir Removal
Remove the level sender upper mounting screw, press & hold the lock clip down, then lift the tube assembly from the reservoir.

The reservoir (which contains the pump, the return valve, & the pickup siphon) is interchangeable between all '90-96 rear gasoline tanks. The pump (not visible inside the reservoir) is the same for all '90-96 gas trucks & tanks (maybe even diesel). The tube & plate assembly in my hand is specific to '90-96 Broncos, and its pigtail connector is specific to '94-96. The sender is compatible with all '87-97 gasoline trucks; the arm fits '87-96 Broncos; the float fits virtually all truck rear tanks, and some front tanks. The wiring unplugs from the tank plate, and from the motor.

To temporarily or permanently convert a '90-up 2-tank truck to a single tank, read this caption:

'87-96 Bronco Level Sender engineering number
FOTF-9A299-AA
11/7/95-3
Fuel Tank Sending Unit
Service PN: FOTZ-9A299-DB (MotorCraft PS22)
List ~$80; jobber ~$55.
(1.4 hrs.)

With the sending unit float arm in the empty stop position, resistance should be 15 ohms (below E). With the sending unit float arm in the full stop position, resistance should be 160 ohms (above F). The fuel gauge should read empty at 22.5 ohms and full at 145 ohms.

See also:
. . .

The level sender merely screws to the side of the FDM & its wire plugs onto the tank plate. Before reinstalling the FDM, I removed the EEC PWR relay (which also kills the FP relay), turned the key to RUN, & checked both the old & new senders through the full range of motion. The old was definitely bad, & the new definitely good.

'87-96 Bronco Level Sender PN
FOTF-9A299-AA
11/7/95-3
Fuel Tank Sending Unit
Service PN: FOTZ-9A299-DB (MotorCraft PS22)
List ~$80; jobber ~$55.
(1.4 hrs.)

To temporarily or permanently convert a '90-up 2-tank truck to a single tank, read this caption:


With the sending unit float arm in the empty stop position, resistance should be 15 ohms (below E). With the sending unit float arm in the full stop position, resistance should be 160 ohms (above F). The fuel gauge should read empty at 22.5 ohms and full at 145 ohms.

See also:
. . .

FDM Wiring

To temporarily or permanently convert a '90-up 2-tank truck to a single tank, read this caption:

Pump Connection
When replacing the FDM, the pump inside it, or just the reservoir head, the original wires CAN be connected to the new pump without cutting. But if the wires are soldered or crimped properly, this is a secure connection. The splices do NOT need to be sealed, and attempting to do so using sealants, glues, or other chemicals may contaminate the fuel. Gas doesn't conduct electricity, and also flows through the electric pump motor anyway, so just prevent the metal wires from touching each other or the metal tubes.

To temporarily or permanently convert a '90-up 2-tank truck to a single tank, read this caption:

Skid Plate & Pads

If the pads are beyond re-use, I recommend camper shell mounting tape because it's a closed-cell foam intended for heavy loads with slight movement in an automotive environment.

Frost King V447

Tank Skidplate Dents
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The skidplate isn't very strong, so dents are very easy to pound or stomp out.

Fuel Injector Types
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

TSB 98-9-9 Fuel Injector Testing Information

Publication Date: MAY 11, 1998

FORD:
1992-1994 TEMPO
1992-1997 PROBE, THUNDERBIRD
1992-1998 CROWN VICTORIA, ESCORT, MUSTANG, TAURUS

LINCOLN-MERCURY:
1992-1994 TOPAZ
1992-1997 COUGAR
1992-1998 CONTINENTAL, GRAND MARQUIS, SABLE, TOWN CAR, TRACER
1993-1998 MARK VIII
1999 COUGAR

LIGHT TRUCK:
1992-1996 BRONCO
1992-1997 AEROSTAR
1992-1998 ECONOLINE, F-150, F-250 LD, RANGER, SUPER DUTY F SERIES
1993-1998 EXPLORER
1997-1998 EXPEDITION, MOUNTAINEER
1998 NAVIGATOR

ISSUE: In-vehicle testing of multi-port fuel injectors, using Rotunda Fuel Injector Tester 164-R3750, will no longer be warranty reimbursable. Lack of tester updates and improvements in the design of fuel injectors has led to the discontinuation of this Service Procedure. A significant number of warranty returned injectors test within engineering specification. All diagnostic tools and procedures are being re-evaluated for effectiveness.

ACTION: Acceptable fuel injector tests include: Service Bay Diagnostic System (SBDS) relative injector flow, fuel pressure decay, cylinder drop/balance techniques, and misfire detection tools. Using the acceptable fuel injector tests eliminates the possibility of a misdiagnosed fuel injector concern due to inaccuracy of this test equipment. Since the introduction of Deposit Resistant Injectors in 1991, lean fuel conditions caused by deposit formation have been eliminated. Diagnostic concentration is on single fuel injector inoperative concerns in a particular cylinder.

NOTE: CLEANING OF FUEL INJECTORS IS NOT WARRANTY REIMBURSABLE EXCEPT FOR THE FOLLOWING VEHICLES:
1992-96 AEROSTAR 4.0L
1992 EXPLORER 4.0L
1992 RANGER 4.0L
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Any single injector (MAF or bench) should measure 13-15 Ohms; a bank of 3 (6-cyl MAP) should measure 4-5 Ohms; a bank of 4 (V8 MAP) should measure 3-3.5 Ohms.

See also:
. . .

Fuel Injector PNs & Specs
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

See also:
. . .

Stuck Injectors can be freed by simply grounding the EEC wire (NOT the red wire) while the key is in RUN. After a few seconds (sometimes up to a couple of minutes), they can be heard to click open, as the heat from being held on warms up & melts the congealed gas inside them. After all of them can be heard to open & close as the ground wire is removed & applied, cycling the fuel pump will push liquid gas through, allowing the engine to be started & run. The longer it runs (especially with injector cleaners added to the gas), the better the injectors will work, and the smoother the engine will run.

Bank-fired injectors (MAP: '85-93 & some '94-95), have either a Tan or Tan/Red (Bank 1) or a White or Tan/Orange (Bank 2) EEC wire; sequential (MAF: some '94-95 & all '96 under 8500GVWR) have a unique wire for each injector that must be grounded (but NEVER the Red wire).

. . .

The fuel pressure regulator (Motorcraft '93-95 Lightning CM4764; '88-95 5.8L CM4760; 5.0L CM4766) is attached to the fuel rail downstream of the fuel injectors. It adjusts fuel pressure supplied to the fuel injectors in response to manifold vacuum (engine load). The regulator is a diaphragm-operated relief valve. One side of the diaphragm senses fuel pressure and the other side is connected to the intake manifold vacuum. Fuel pressure is established by a spring preload applied to the diaphragm. Balancing one side of the diaphragm with manifold vacuum maintains a constant fuel pressure drop across the fuel injectors. Fuel pressure is high when engine vacuum is low. Excess fuel is bypassed through the fuel pressure regulator and returned through the fuel return line to the fuel tank.

. . .

A common problem is for the FPR diaphragm to fail, allowing hi-pressure fuel to leak into the red vacuum line, which dumps straight into the intake plenum. This can flood the engine, and if allowed to continue, it can wash the rings out & damage the bearings. To check it, simply disconnect the vacuum line with the engine idling & inspect for the presence OR ODOR of gasoline. It may take a few seconds for the FPR to fill with gas & begin spitting it out the FPR's engine vacuum nipple.

Some are harder to change than others due to the tiny fasteners facing down, like this '90 CV fuel rail on an '88 F150 5.0L in a '75 Bronco:



See also:
.

Fuel Pump Warning Tag
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

This was hung in new trucks to inform owners new to EFI that running the tank dry would damage the pump. Running an electric positive-displacement flow-through motor dry wears the impeller & bearings and overheats the motor, since the fuel both lubricates & cools the motor.

Inertia Switch old style

. .

Inertia Switches

The old switch ('84~89) was installed on the firewall either just forward of the brake or clutch pedal or just R of the transmission tunnel. The later switch (~'90-up) is always inside the R kick panel just below the glove box. They are functionally identical, and can be swapped by changing the harness connector. But the newer one is slightly more-reliable.

. . . .

Inertia Switches cracked open
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Typical locations for Bronco & F-series include:
- firewall, between e-brake & brake pedals ('84-89)
- firewall, R side of trans tunnel ('87-91)
- R kick panel immediately below dash ('92-96)

. . . . .

The older switch is simply on-off (SPST); the newer switch (SPDT) changes its connection to the center terminal (PUMPS - COMMON) from the right terminal (SET - NC) to the left (TRIPPED - NO). If the left terminal is wired to a bulb with a hot feed, the bulb will light when the switch is tripped. '92-93 truck clusters have an unused bulb position for FUEL RESET, but they are miswired (probably to ensure it wasn't used, due to safety concerns about supplying voltage to the fuel pump motor after the IFS was tripped). The film circuit can be cut & rewired, and the IFS connector can be repinned to make the light work. '94-96 trucks have the SRS indicator in that position.

Inertia Switch new style

. .

Possible locations: L of brake pedal, or in R kick panel
.

'92-96 Inertia Switch

Push in notch to reset. Remove the kick panel & pry the red button up through the notch in the housing to trip the switch.

.

Earlier inertia switches could be to the R of the transmission hump, or to the L of the brake pedal:

92-93 Inertia Fuel Shutoff Switch Reset Indicator

. .

Most earlier trucks used a 2-pin (SPST) IFS, which won't work this way. Later trucks had the SRS light where the fuel reset light was, so that's why this is described for only '92-93 trucks.

Although '92-93 trucks contain some of this wiring, none were built with this circuit, or a bulb in the instrument cluster for this function. And some have the wires in the wrong places on the IFS connector (C271). But with a little effort, this circuit can be added to those trucks.

With a little more effort, it can be added to most others with an SPDT inertia switch, or this switch could be swapped in.

When the IFS is set (normal), the ground for the bulb is open-circuit (off), even when the key is in START or RUN and supplying 12V to the bulb. When the IFS is tripped, the circuit is completed through the fuel pump motor to ground. Since the motor requires far more current to run than can pass through the tiny bulb's high resistance, the bulb lights, but the pump doesn't run.

I suspect Ford deleted this circuit because it supplies power to the pump (albeit a tiny amount) even when the IFS is tripped, which risks starting a fire.

See also:
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Fuel Tank Capacity '92 & '95
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

For wheelbase, see this:


For pickup tank access, see this:


For older trucks:

Fuel Additives

These are what I use when I think my gas trucks need some fuel system maintenance. B12 is very strong & volatile, so I only add it when the tank is cold (early morning) immediately before a long drive (so it circulates before it can evaporate), and it can also be used in the engine oil to remove deposits (but it CAN remove them so quickly that they clog the filter, so be cautious on engines with thick deposits). Techron is less-aggressive, but contains more beneficial components. In my 4.9Ls, I may also add some Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) to the gas & oil as a top-end lube since they're more prone to valve stick with unleaded ethanol-diluted gas. MMO is a milder crankcase cleaner than B12.